LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

Walking or cycling the Camino de Santiago is one of the most life changing experiences you can have.

Each day, waking up and knowing that you’ve got an amazing day of walking ahead of you and that with each step you are edging closer to Santiago de Compostela is a great feeling.

In summer 2022, we walked the Camino del Norte, which was incredible. In late 2022, we were keen for another bite of the cherry and we walked the Camino Portuguese route from Porto.

Here’s our guide on how to walk the Camino de Santiago Portuguese route. We hope you find this useful and are able to set out on our own Camino Portuguese adventure soon!

Table of contents

Jump to the most relevant bit of the article here.

1. Camino Portuguese Intro
2. Should you take the coastal or the inland Camino Portuguese route?
3. Daily stages for the Camino Portuguese Route
4. Food and drink on the Portuguese Camino
5. Cost of the Camino Portuguese Route
6. What to pack for the Camino Portuguese Route?
7. What time of year to walk the Camino Portuguese route?
8. How difficult is the Camino Portuguese route?

How long is the Camino Portuguese Route?

The Camino Portuguese Route runs from either Porto or Lisbon in Portugal to Santiago de Compostela. The distance is variable depending on which route you take and where you start, as follows:

• Lisbon – Coastal Route 630km
• Lisbon – Central Route 650km
• Porto – Costal Route 280km
• Porto – Central Route 260km

Where do you start the Camino Portuguese route?

Camino Portuguese from Lisbon

You can choose to start walking from Lisbon to Porto. This makes the route significantly longer. There are pros and cons to starting in Lisbon. We have not done the walk from Lisbon to Porto, but based on our research and talking to other Pilgrims, we believe that it’s not the best Camino experience. We hear there are large stretches of the walk without Albergues, plus less walkers means that the atmosphere isn’t great.

You can find out more about where to start the Camino Portuguese in Lisbon here.

Camino Portuguese from Porto

We chose to walk from Porto to Santiago, rather than start in Lisbon. This decision was in part driven by time constraints (we had two weeks to complete the walk). But also, we had heard from fellow walkers that the experience from Lisbon to Porto wasn’t the best -see above.

Which route to take out of Porto on the Camino Portuguese?

After much discussion, we decided to take the Senda Litoral route out of Porto. At this stage we had not decided if we would continue on the Litoral route for the remainder of the way, move onto the Coastal route or join the Central.

But we thought that the Litoral route looked like the best option for Day One. It avoids the industrial north of Porto and hugs the coast line, offering stunning views of the Atlantic.

The Boardwalks are also quite easy on the legs, which is nice on day one! It was also a lovely sunny day, but in bad weather, we would avoid this route.

We decided by the start of Day 2 to join the central route, for us this was mainly because we walked a coastal route in July and therefore wanted something different this time.

This was also because we had heard that the Coastal route tends to be quieter, with less Pilgrims choosing that way, especially during off-season. We wanted to make sure we had opportunities to socialise and hoped that the central route would provide this.

If you want to take the Litoral route out of Porto, it’s easy to find. Walk West along the Douro river until you reach the Atlantic, then follow the paths and boardwalks keeping the sea on your left.

See Day Two info for how to join the central route after Vila do Conde if you wish to! On the Buen Camino app, you can also follow the route if you look at the alternative Coastal Route section.

Why choose the Camino Portuguese route?

Why the Camino Portuguese route? Well, we heard amazing things from people we met on our first Camino. The Portuguese route did not disappoint

Here are the main reasons that we think the Portuguese route is great:

1 / You get to experience two countries, with two cultures and two different cusines

2 / It’s exciting to cross from one country to another on foot

3 / The scenery in Portugal is stunning

4 / Portuguese people are very friendly and welcoming

5 / The Portuguese route is one of the busiest (the second most popular route), therefore you have the chance to meet lots of people

6 / The Portuguese route is quite flat, making this route more accessible to walkers than the other routes

7 / The Portuguese route can start in or travel through Porto. We love Porto!

8 / If you start walking from Porto, this route can easily be achieved in two weeks. Making this the perfect challenge during your two week vacation.

If you want to know more about the different routes available, check our article here.

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Should you take the coastal or the inland Camino Portuguese route?

Choosing whether to take the coastal route or the inland route on the Portuguese Camino is possibly one of the biggest decisions you will have to make when walking the Camino.

Here are the pros and cons of each:

Camino Portuguese Coastal Route

Pros:

• Less people choose to walk this route, therefore if you want a more relaxed experience, this could suit you.
• If the weather is very balmy, the coastal route will see cooler temperatures than the inland route
• Walking along the Atlantic coast provide stunning scenery
• There are lots of board walks, which many people find easier to walk on

Cons:

• If you want to meet lots of people, this route is less popular and it can be more challenging to meet people
• You will miss the vineyards and countryside that can be found inland
• The scenery can feel a little monotonous on the coastal route

Camino Portuguese Inland / Central Route

Pros:

• This is a busier route, where you will meet lots of people
• The villages an towns you will see inland are beautiful and not place you are likely to visit otherwise
• The accommodation on this route is excellent and plentiful, meaning you never have to worry about walking long stretches to find accommodation

Cons:

• This route can get crowded in peak season
• You won’t get to see the coastal scenery offered on the coastal route
• There is some road walking on this route

Would you like us to plan your walk for you?

Embark on a journey of a lifetime with Lotus Eaters Travel Planning, where we turn your dream of long-distance walking into a meticulously planned reality.

Our passion for exploration, love for diverse cultures, and commitment to providing an unparalleled experience drive us to offer personalized consultation services for some of the world’s most iconic walking trails

Find out more here.

Daily stages for the Camino Portuguese Route

Day One: Porto to Vila do Conde (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage One)

Which Camino route to take out of Porto on the Portuguese Camino?

After much discussion, we decided to take the Senda Litoral route out of Porto. At this stage we had not decided if we would continue on the Litoral route for the remainder of the way, move onto the Coastal route or join the Central.

But we thought that the Litoral route looked like the best option for Day One. It avoids the industrial north of Porto and hugs the coast line, offering stunning views of the Atlantic. The Boardwalks are also quite easy on the legs, which is nice on day one! It was also a lovely sunny day, but in bad weather, we would avoid this route.

We decided by the start of Day 2 to join the central route, for us this was mainly because we walked a coastal route in July and therefore wanted something different this time.

This was also because we had heard that the Coastal route tends to be quieter, with less Pilgrims choosing that way, especially during off-season. We wanted to make sure we had opportunities to socialise and hoped that the central route would provide this.

If you want to take the Litoral route out of Porto, it’s easy to find. Walk West along the Douro river until you reach the Atlantic, then follow the paths and boardwalks keeping the sea on your left.

See Day Two info for how to join the central route after Vila do Conde if you wish to! On the Buen Camino app, you can also follow the route if you look at the alternative Coastal Route section.

Day One: Porto to Vila do Conde

Distance: 33km

Highlights: Walking out of Porto along the river as the city woke up early in the morning. Tourist Information in Matosinhos being so welcoming and giving us a free gift. Stunning views out to the Atlantic with lots of undiscovered beaches.

Route: Mainly pavement and board walks. Flat most of the day with a few steps to climb. Lots of water fountains and places to buy food and drink. Loads of bars and restaurants along the coast make this an excellent day for grazing and enjoying the scenery.

Food and Accommodation: Vila do Conde is small, but there are a handful of bars and restaurants. The main Albergue (Albergue peregrinos Santa Clara) has two small rooms and it does get full.

We turned up late, around 1700 and there was no space. Although the host offered us the option to stay in her house (for a fee) we decided to stay at a hotel for €45 (Venceslau Wine Boutique Hotel).

Day Two: Vila do Conde to Barcelos (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage One)

We chose to tuck back inland to join the Portuguese Camino central route at this stage. It helped to use the Camino Ninja App to navigate as there weren’t many arrows until we re-joined the central route.

Having met some Pilgrims who had followed the Viaduct and river, we found out that their route seemed to have taken them an extra 10km to our route. Although we did walk through some less scenic areas, we think that’s a better option that the extra 10km. We re-joined the Camino around Moldes/ Arcos.

Distance: 28km

Highlights: The trail after San Pedro de Rates, it felt lovely to get off the roads.

Route: Mostly road with some short trails. Flat day. No water fountains sighted and infrequent supermarkets but some cafes. However, these are few and far between so we would recommend packing snacks.

Food and Accommodation: Barcelos and Barcelinos is great for Albergues as there are at least four. We stayed at Residencia Albergue Senhor do Galo, it was 10 Euro and probably one of the most basic Albergues weve ever stayed in.

Shared showers (one large cubicle for male and female) are a bit strange and no plugs by the beds. But comfortable, cheap and close to town. Head into Barcelos for lots of food options, we chose Bangkok Thai as it had excellent google reviews – would recommend, they have a Pilgrim menu and the food is excellent.

Day Three: Barcelos to Ponte de Lima (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage One)

Distance: 34km

Highlights: The route started to wind more into the countryside and we were greeted with views of some stunning fields filled with vineyards. The last 10km of this route is particularly lovely as it suddenly veers off the roads into the countryside.

Route: This was quite a long day mostly on road or pavement, bar the last 10km. We took two small short cuts, one quite early on where the Camino takes you on a loop to avoid a train track (we crossed the train track, as directed by a friendly farmer).

The second was at Poiares, where we chose to walk along the road towards Vitorino dos Piaes. There were a few bars and restaurants along the way and a small supermarket. We didn’t see many water fountains.

Food and Accommodation: Ponte de Lima is a stunning town, we loved it. There is one Albergue and a number of Pensions. We stayed at Blue House Ponte de Lima, which cost around 50 Euros for a private room for two. For dinner, there are many options in town with Pilgrim menus.

Day Four: Ponte de Lima to São Roque

Distance: 18km

Highlights: We loved this day on the Camino. Much of this route was off road and on trails through stunning national park land. A food cart selling local cider (superbly chilled) as you exit the park was also a highlight!

Route: The majority of the route today is off road on absolutely majestic trails. Vineyards, trees and stunning nature. There’s a steep climb up to about 380m between Bandeira and Alto de Portela.

But its over quickly and you’re soon rewarded with incredible views. There are no water fountains and very few food stops before the end. We would recommend breakfast in one of the bakeries in Ponte de Lima and packing a lunch to enjoy on the route today! Also, pack enough water.

Food and Accommodation: Sao Roque is small, most people continue the day to nearby Rubiaes, but we decided to stay in an Albergue we found in Sao Roque (Albergue Constantino) – you can book on booking.com for a cheap private room (20 Euros approx) and they will take you to a nearby restaurant for dinner for a 10 Euro Pilgrim Menu.

Day Five: Sao Roque to Tui (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage 2)

Today is an easy day, we stride quickly through small villages before arriving in Valenca to enjoy the last bit of Portugal and then crossing the border into Spain!

Distance: 21km

Highlights: Some off road walking was great. But big highlight is definitely the fort in Valenca and crossing the bridge into Spain!

Route: Compared to the previous day, this is an easy and quick day of walking. There are 6kms of trail and the rest on road or pavement. The route is mostly downhill too. On route you’ll find little food and drink, we packed lunch that we purchased in the supermarket in Rubiaes and didnt regret it.

Food and Accommodation: Tui is quite compact but a delightful town centred around the Cathedral. There are about 3 different Albergues and some Pensions. We chose Ideas Perigrinas as we could book online.

It was 36 euros for two for a private room and we loved it. Dorm beds available for 15 Euros. The cafe underneath is super handy and also sells various Pilgrim bits that you may need. For food, there’s a big supermarket in town and a few restaurants near the Cathedral offering Menu del Dia (it’s good be back in Spain!)

Day Six: Tui to Redondela (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage 2)

On leaving Tui, you’ll notice the trails suddenly get busier. Tui is the last town more than 100km from Santiago on the Portuguese route. Many new walkers join at this stage. Remember, if you want to get your Compostela in Santiago that you need to get two stamps a day in your credential from this point.

We decided to walk the 31km from Tui to Redondela on day six. Most people split this into two days, stopping overnight in O Poriño after around 16km. However, we decided to stay in Redondela as it looked nicer and we were in our stride. You could also split and stay in A Rua (Mos) which is about 20km from Tui.

Distance: 31km

Highlights: The trail through the forest at around 5km was a welcome break from the road walking.

Route: On route to O Poriño there is a choice of direction at Orbnelle. You can take the left hand trail, longer and more scenic, or the right hand one which takes you through and industrial area but is more direct.

We chose the direct route. It is pretty soul destroying to be honest! Very industrial road with little to look at and nowhere to stop for 7km. We spotted the saddest vending machine in the world. This was our least favourite day!

Food and accommodation

Redondela has nine Albergues! It’s a veritable feast. But, be aware this town is the merging point for the Portuguese Coastal and Central routes, plus into the last 100km before Santiago, so it does get busy.

We chose Avoa Regina which has great facilities and is bookable on Booking.com at 15 Euros per night. There are quite a few pizza places and tapas bars in the centre of town. If you stay at Avoa Regina do not miss out on breakfast the next morning across the road.

Day Seven: Redondela to Pontevedra (Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Stage 2)

Distance: 19.5km

Highlights: A few nice trails take you off the road and a bar (Casa Fermin) 5km short of Potenvedra is great for a coffee or cerveza.

Route: On route, you’ll find cafe and food options at Arcade around 8km in, plus a few bars towards the end of the walk. There are a few hills today, both climb to 150m and are over quite swiftly.

There are around 6km on trail and the rest or road/pavement. At O Pobo you have an option to carry on the main route or take a trail through forest. The trail is not much longer and far prettier than the road.

Food and Accommodation: Pontevedra has 6 Albergues, some Pensions and also hotels. It’s a bit of a tourist town for Spanish travellers so prices can get high for private rooms.

Lots of restaurants with Menu del Dia plus some higher end places and of course some supermarkets.

Day Eight: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (Portuguese Camino)

Distance: 21km

Highlights: Arrival in Caldas de Reis on Hispanic Day, there was a good party vibe in many of the bars.

Route:  A swift 21km today with only one small hill. Mostly road and navigating quiet areas with limited big towns.

Food and Accommodation: We stayed at Martinez Rooms Pilgrims in a private room. There are many other albergue options. Pilgrim menus are offered at a few restaurants in town.

Day Nine: Caldas de Reis to Vilar (Portuguese Camino)

We chose to walk past Padron today and stay in Vilar because we had a booking at O Lagar de Jesus Albergue (which is one of our favourites on the whole route!)

Many people stay in Padron, but we have to say we were pleased we continued as Padron felt like a quiet town with not much going on and the Municipal Albergue didn’t look up to par.

Distance: 24.5km

Highlights: The trails were lovely, pine trees and smattering of sun light coming through.

Route: The route feels quite easy today, but with one small climb (around 200m). There are approx 3km on trails and the rest on roads, but the trails feel longer than that and the roads are quiet and picturesque. Some industrial areas too.

Food and Accommodation: In Vilar, the only game in town is O Lagar de Jesus. We’ve written about it in more detail here. But we loved this Albergue and all its trappings.

Day Ten: Vilar to Santiago (Portuguese Camino)

Vilar is the perfect distance from Santiago. Approx 4 hours of walking today means if you’re up early, you can be in Santiago for lunch time or to attend the Pilgrims mass at the Cathedral.

Distance: 19km

Highlights: Cafes on route filled with Pilgrims and good vibes as everyone excitedly marches into town!

Route: The route is not unpleasant but you’ll notice the approach to Santiago as the scenery becomes more industrial. There’s excellent camaraderie on route today (despite rain threatening on the day we walked).

Pilgrims are everywhere walking in unison and enjoying coffee and last minute socialising. It’s truly special! A couple of hills take you into Santiago. A couple of kms of trails but mostly road.

Food and Accommodation: Santiago has many places to stay and you’re spoilt for choice for food. We like The Last Stamp Hostel as its modern and spacious.

Look carefully for Menu del Dia options (they do exist in Santiago) or if you are after something fancy, then head to one of the wonderful restaurants on Rua de Ameas like Abastos 2.0.

Food and drink on the Portuguese Camino

The food on the Camino Portuguese route is EXCEPTIONAL. We loved this route because you get to try both Spanish and Portuguese cuisine along the way.

In Portugal, enjoy Pastel de Nata (Custard Tart), delicious brioche sandwiches at any time of the day and spicy chicken and rice dishes in the evening. We found that the quality of the baked goods in Portugal was very high. We also enjoyed Vino Verde wine in Portugal, as well as the occasional glass of Port (See more information on drinking Port in Porto!)

Once you cross into Spain, you’ll find the reintroduction of the Menu del Dia, a perfect way for hungry Pilgrims to fill up. This menu of the day normally includes wine, bread, water and 3 courses. Delicious. Make sure to enjoy a few glasses of Rioja in Spain too. And of course, the famous Tarte de Santiago when you arrive to the end of the way.

Cost of the Camino Portuguese Route

We found the cost of walking the Portuguese route to be a little cheaper than the Camino del Norte. This is in part because the cost of eating out and drinking in Portugal is cheaper than in Spain.

For example, in Portugal, we could buy 2 coffees and 2 breakfast sandwiches for 3 Euros. On the Spanish routes, this tends to be closer to 5 Euros.

In our experience, the cost of Albergues in Portugal is also lower. Often we chose to stay at slightly more upmarket ones, including with private rooms, on the Portuguese route because they were less expensive than we had experienced on the Camino del Norte.

On average, we paid around 10 Euros for a bunk bed and 25 Euros for a private room on the Portuguese route.

What to pack for the Camino Portuguese Route?

Good footwear: Firstly, the walk is very flat, especially compared to the Camino del Norte or the Primotivo. You will be perfectly fine walking the Camino Portuguese route in trainers.

Activewear: Layers are key on this route, especially if you’re not walking in high-summer. Go for t shirts, shorts, trousers and a light jacket or sweater.

Bag: The key thing to get right is your backpack. We strongly recommend that you do not take a bag any bigger than 30 or 40 litres.

For more information on packing, check out our ultimate Camino packing list here.

What time of year to walk the Camino Portuguese route?

The Camino Portuguese route is available to walk any time of the year. But the most pleasant weather can be found between April and October.

In the summer, expect hot temperatures that can make walking challenging. In spring and autumn, you may find beautiful clear days but you could also experience some rain in this area.

For more information on the differences between walking the Camino in the Summer versus Autumn, you can find our article here.

How difficult is the Camino Portuguese route?

Many people walk the Camino Portuguese route each year, in fact it has become one of the top three routes walked by pilgrims. People of all fitness levels embark on it each year.

On average, most pilgrims walk between 15 and 30km. Thus, the Camino Portuguese can be tailored to your own fitness levels. You can tailor the route to suit your own fitness levels. But, a basic level is required to be able to walk each day for a long period.

Of all the Camino routes, we think the Camino Portuguese is the least challenging. Although there is some elevation it is very limited compared to the Camino del Norte, for example.

If you are interested in more about training for the Camino, you can find our detailed guide on training here. We also offer a yoga for hiking online course, specifically made for people setting out to walk a long distance path like the Camino – find that here.

Would you like us to plan your walk for you?

Embark on a journey of a lifetime with Lotus Eaters Travel Planning, where we turn your dream of long-distance walking into a meticulously planned reality.

Our passion for exploration, love for diverse cultures, and commitment to providing an unparalleled experience drive us to offer personalized consultation services for some of the world’s most iconic walking trails

Find out more here.

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John and Emma’s hiking gear. These are items we love to use when we go hiking, find them here on Amazon.

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Most of our planning is done using other blogs, but you can’t beat a guide book at the bottom of your case.

Find them here on Amazon.

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