LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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EL CHALTEN BEST HIKES & THINGS DO IN EL CHALTEN.

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As soon as I arrived to the tiny outpost of El Chalten, I knew I was going to love it.

In fact, I started to love it even before I entered the village. We were driving along in our hire car, Zero 7 blasting on the stereo and it felt like one of those experiences where everything just makes sense.

The cool mountain air crept in through the window, the sun created beautiful golden hour light and we looked at each other as if to say “yes, this is right”(whilst keeping our eyes on the road of course). We were coming to the end of an 18 hour road trip, having driven from Bariloche. It’s fair to say that we weren’t sure if the journey to El Chalten would be worth it.

On the approach to El Chalten, as we started to see Fitz Roy in the distance – we knew we had made one of the best decisions of our lives to come here.

Our time in El Chalten did not disappoint, in any way, shape or form. We stayed in a delightful shepherds hut, dined in incredible restaurants and tackled dastardly hikes. It was bliss.

We’ve created this travel guide on El Chalten, in the hope that you will visit and find your own version of nirvana in this hiking mecca. Read on to find out what to do, where to eat & drink, where to stay and how to find the best hikes in El Chalten.

Looking for the bottom line up front?

Our top picks for El Chlaten are found below – or read on for more detail.

Why is El Chalten famous?

El Chalten is known predominately for being the trekking capital of Argentina. This is where many hikers from around the world travel to every year, to explore the stunning scenery and trails which lead in and out of El Chalten.

Most notably, El Chalten is also known for Cerro Fitz Roy (Fitz Roy mountain.) This mountain peak is like nothing I have seen before, jagged and magnificent, towering over the valley.

Is El Chalten worth visiting?

If you are hesitating about whether El Chalten is worth visiting – I would say, 9 times out of 10 – you should go for it!

When we were crafting our itinerary for Argentine, I will admit that we did consider skipping El Chalten in order to spend more time in the North of Patagonia around Bariloche. The reality is Argentina is a massive country and El Chalten is near to the South of it. Depending on how long you have in Argentina, you are going to have be quite cutthroat about where you choose to visit – and given El Chalten’s geographic location, you may decide to skip it.

What I would say is that if you are a hiker, or lover of all things mountain – you should NOT skip El Chalten. If your idea of a dream travel day is to wake up, grab some fresh pastries and coffee, head out on an epic hike, chill with craft beer after your endeavors, feast like a king and then go to bed dreaming of doing it all again tomorrow, then El Chalten is for you.

But, what if you have to toss up between El Chalten and Bariloche or El Calafate? More on that below.

El Chalten or Bariloche

Bariloche is found to the north of Patagonia, whereas El Chalten is to the south. Between them, lies around 18 hours of road on the Route 40. Or indeed, a short flight. Should you visit both El Chalten and Bariloche? Or should you choose between them? And, if so, how?

Our honest take on this, is that we couldn’t choose. Subsequently, we visited both and made sure that we had plenty of time in each to see the areas properly.

Both Bariloche and El Chalten are hiking hubs. But, there are some differences. If you can, we recommend visiting both. If you can’t, or don’t have time, perhaps this may help you decide.

El Chalten or Bariloche – which should you choose?

San Carlos de Bariloche (or Bariloche) for short, is a large town. Many people come to visit Bariloche, even if they aren’t planning to trek. There’s lots to see and do in the town, as well as in the surrounding areas. For example, the famous the Route of the Seven Lakes, is a famous drive which (you guessed it) takes in seven incredible lakes.

For hikers, Bariloche is a dream come true. You can choose from day hikes, or multi-day treks. We’ve written in detail about our favourite hikes in the area here.

One thing to note with Bariloche, is that you will have a better experience of hiking if you have a car. The hikes do not go from Bariloche centre, rather they are found between 20 and 60 minutes drive away. Comparatively, in El Chalten once you are there, you do not need a car. We hiked for many days straight and didn’t move our hire car. The treks are walk-in-walk-out from the town.

Conversely, El Chalten has more of a “village” feel. The best comparison I can give, is that it feels a bit like a ski resort, but for trekking. The vast majority of people arrive to hike by day, and enjoy a few beers by night. Much like apres ski! There are things to do other than hike, such as horseback riding and rafting – but hiking is the dominant activity.

El Chalten or El Calafate

El Chalten has many hikes to choose from, including the famous Fitz Roy/ Laguna de los tres hike. Conversely, El Calafate is most well known for the Perito Moreno Glacier. El Calafate does have hiking trails, but they are not as well known or as well set up, as the ones near El Chalten. And, El Chalten also has glaciers including one you can trek on – the lesser known Viedma Glacier.

Choosing between the two is a very difficult decision! We chose to spend more time in El Chalten than we did El Calafate. Subsequently, we may be a little biased. But, we would wholeheartedly recommend doing the same.

We would recommend visiting both, if you can. El Calafate is around 2 hours away from El Chalten. So, if you’re visiting El Chalten, it seems almost criminal not to pop along to El Calafate to visit the incredible Perito Moreno Glacier. You can, if you wish, limit your trip to El Calafate to one or two days. However, we recommend spending longer in El Chalten.

If you really don’t have time to visit both and your goal for your trip is to trek, then we (begrudgingly) recommend skipping El Calafate and choosing El Chalten.

How many days should you spend in El Chalten?

Most people spend three nights in El Chalten, this allows two days of hiking. Whilst this time will allow you the chance to try two of the main hikes, do keep in a few things.

Firstly, choosing just two hikes is tough. Secondly, you might feel a little rushed – El Chalten is not that easy to get too and therefore chances are you’ll get there after a long travel day and need some time to relax. Finally, Patagonia weather is notoriously unreliable. You may have rain or cloud one day, and miss out on the best views.

For all of these reasons, we would recommend four nights in El Chalten as an ideal amount of time to try the best hikes, relax, and have at least one morning to laze in bed with a bit of a craft beer hangover.

9 best things do in El Chalten

El Chalten is a small place, but as the gateway to Los Glaciers National Park, there is so much to see and do. Despite it’s small size, don’t write off the town of El Chalten – at every corner, there are enticing bars and restaurants waiting to invite you in.

1/ Explore the hiking trails

The number one activity in El Chalten is, of course, hiking. We’ve set out our three best hikes below – see best hikes section!

2/ Chill by a lagoon

Many of the hikes in El Chalten go past or to a lagoon of water. We loved planning a picnic to enjoy at the lagoons when we reached them. However, if you have crazy hot weather in El Chalten (which does happen sometimes) and a long hike isn’t on the cards – we recommend spending some time relaxing by the water instead.

Laguna Capri is one of the nearest, with a fairly straightforward hike to get to it. It is found on the Fitz Roy trail, but avoids the crowded (and steepest) bits of the hike. See hike four below for more details on the walk to Laguna Capri.

So, pack up a picnic and spend a few hours chilling by the Lagoon.

3/ Drink craft beer

One of our favourite things about visiting El Chalten was discovering the range of bars and micro-breweries offering really unique Patagonia beers. There is little else better than walking back to the village after a hot and sweaty trek and being greeted by a cold pint.

If you know your IPA from your stout, you’re sure to enjoy perusing the various hoppy offerings in El Chalten’s bars.

Our three favourite spots for a post-walk pint are:

La Cerveceria Chalten which has fabulous outdoor seating and a range of drinks, Bourbon Smokehouse for very cool “apres” vibes & La Zorra Tap Room which serves it’s own beers (and incidentally they also make a fabulous burger.)

4/ Try sweet treats

When in Argentina, be sure to try their famous sweet treat. Alfrajores in Argentina are hugely popular and are considered a national specialty.

The best way that I can think to describe them, is a little like a Wagon Wheel (for UK readers). They are like a soft biscuit/ cookie, wrapped in chocolate. The exciting bit is the filling – normally the sugary indulgent sensation that is Dulce de Leche.

When in El Chalten, you pretty much have to go to Chalteños. A gorgeous shop which specializes in all things Dulce de Leche, and makes Alfrajores which I can only describe as “the bomb.”

5/ Read a book in a cozy nook

Some of the most relaxing time I spent in El Chalten was when I spent some time sitting soft, getting cozy somewhere quiet with a book. There are loads of lovely spaces in El Chalten, where you can sit and reflect with a coffee or a drink.

We also loved having a terrace space to enjoy. Sit back, relax and enjoy the mountain air.

6/ Feast at a Parilla

Parilla is an Argentinean style of barbecue. Visiting a Parilla is a quintessential Argentinean experience. Picture smoke filled restaurants decked out with wooden furniture, diners quaffing malbec as the waiter brings over a sizzling meat platter.

In El Chalten there are a few excellent Parillas to choose from. We especially enjoyed our evening dining on steak and a huge selection of grilled vegetables, at Parilla La Oveja Negra – a quaint parilla place at the Fitz Roy trail end of town.

7/ Explore by horseback

One of my dreams is to go horseback riding in Patagonia. In El Chalten, you can do just that.

We were recommended a company called Bonanza Adventures, which runs horseback riding tours twice a day. Find out more and book this experience here.

Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to do it, this time around. But hey, it’s good to have something to look forward to next time we visit.

8/ Rafting on Rio de las Vueltas

Non-hikers may be interested to know there are some alternative things to do in El Chalten. Specifically, rafting on Rio de las Vueltas.

During this activity, you’ll set out to calm water to get views of Fitz Roy (without hiking!) before hitting a series of rapids. Not an activity for the fainthearted, but sure to be an adrenaline inducing three hours. You can find out more here.

9/ Viedma Glacier Trek/ Huemul Circuit

I wanted to include this experience on the best things to do in El Chalten, because frankly, it looks epic.

This is a four day trek, starting in El Chalten. On the first day, you’ll walk to Laguna Toro. The second day involves challenging trekking, zip lining (!) and a first glimpse of Mariano Moreno mountain range. The following day, you’ll be treated to incredible views of the Viedma Glacier before zip lining again the next day and finishing with a walk around the bay of icebergs.

In between all of this, you’ll have the chance to camp in some incredible places and enjoy meals with your fellow trekkers. If you don’t plan to visit Perito Moreno Glacier, further south near El Calafate, and truly want a once in a life time experience – then I think this four day experience might just be it.

Find out more here.

El Chalten Best Hikes: Four of the best

There are many hikes to choose from in and around El Chalten. For the best selection, we recommend browsing the All Trails app.

We have selected three hikes from the ones that we tried in El Chalten. The disclaimer to this is that we weren’t able to complete all of the hikes that we wanted, as the Laguna Sucia trail was partially closed. We’ve heard great things about this trail, and I imagine that we would have included it on our list of best hikes in El Chalten had we completed it.

One: Hike Fitz Roy Trail/ Laguna de los tres

If you’re visiting El Chalten, no doubt you’re planning to walk the famous Fitz Roy trail to Laguna de los Tres. I think this is the most iconic hike in Argentinean Patagonia. Every day it is walked by what seems to be thousands of people.

The hike offers you unparalleled views of the jagged peak of Fitz Roy mountain. As well as the chance to gaze longingly at the bright blue Laguna de los Tres – or indeed swim in it.

A difficult hike, made harder by the number of walkers. But, something you won’t want to miss and definitively one of El Chalten’s best hikes.

Fitz Roy/ Laguna de los Tres hike: Key points

Of all El Chalten’s best hikes, the Fitz Roy is the most famous. Here are the key details you need to know:

How hard is Laguna de los tres hike?

The hike along the Fitz Roy trail to Laguna de los Tres is difficult. I would say that the hardest part is traffic management on the last section. In fact, the first three quarters of the hike are very manageable – as you meander through shaded tracks and forests.

There are two climbs. A first one out of El Chalten of around 1,000 ft. Then at around 5 miles in, you reach the start of the biggest ascent. Over a distance of 1.5 miles you’ll climb about 2,000 ft.

The trail is well marked, but due to the sheer number of people walking, many choose to veer off trail – side note please don’t do this, it’s really damaging to the plant life and causes erosion. This can make it feel as though there are crowds of people coming up behind you from all angles, which I found a little stressful.

The worst part of the walk is the descent back down from Laguna de los Tres. It is a steep descent and not a straightforward path. Each step requires a lot of concentration. Not least, because there will invariably be a queue of people behind you, so waiting more patiently than others. And a load of people waiting to get up the hill too.

Despite this, the hike is so definitely worth it! You’d regret it if you missed it. But, don’t expect a completely relaxing walk.

Can you swim in Laguna de los tres?

Once you get to Laguna de los Tres, you might be wondering – can you swim in it? The answer is -in theory yes! But, be prepared for icy water. I mean seriously icy. Be careful, and don’t swim too long, unless you’re used to cold water swimming of course.

If you want to go in fully, then bring your swimming suit. Otherwise, a quick dip of the feet is pleasant. Or, just sit back and enjoy the views!

What time should you walk to Laguna de los Tres?

If you want to walk the Laguna de los Tres it’s important to head out early in the morning for the best experience. Really, we would recommend setting off as soon as first light. This way, you’ll be walking to the Lagoon with the crowds and be coming back with them too.

If you leave it too late, you’ll be walking against the traffic of hikers. With narrow paths, this is not going to make for a very fun experience and is best avoided.

If you can, try to set off on a clear weather day. We weren’t quite so lucky and had some cloud cover of Fitz Roy. It was still spectacular.

Two: Loma del Pilegue Tumbado

Loma del Pilegue Tumbado is a series of peaks of 1300, 1400 and 1500m. The significance of this range of mountains, is that they offer 360 degree views of the surrounding areas – including Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

Loma del Pilegue Tumbado: Key points

We absolutely loved this hike and were so glad to have discovered it. For me, this is the best hike in El Chalten. As it is less well known, you have barely any other hikes on the trail, making it peaceful and serene. You also don’t have to get up at a disgusting time in the morning to enjoy it (as you do if you hike the Fitz Roy trail.)

The hike starts by winding it’s way up grassy trails, meandering into forests before gaining elevation quite quickly. Around an hour or so in, you’ll start to get views of Fitz Roy in all it’s magnificence. You’ll pass an initial Mirador, but keep going if you can. Just when you think you’ve climbed to the top, you’ll get to another view point. Take some time to enjoy this, before tackling the climb to the final summit – the terrifying looking hill to the left of the viewpoint!

Honestly, this last bit is a tricky climb. But once you’re up, it is so utterly beautiful. Be sure to take time to enjoy the 360 degree views. As there are not likely to be many people at the top, you can also enjoy the peace and quiet. We are pretty sure we saw a few Andean Condors gliding over us – utterly delightful.

Loma del Pilege Tumbado is one of the best hikes in El Chalten. And, we think our favourite. Here are the key details you need to know:

Is Loma del Pilegue Tumbado a difficult hike?

The Loma del Pilegue Tumbado is quite a strenuous trail. However, as noted below in our top tips section, it is possible not to do the entire route and still enjoy it.

The total distance is 11.4 miles, as an out and back hike and you have an elevation gain of 3,700 ft. Whilst this may not sound too tricky, you need to expect to spend a full day walking this route. Allow around 6-7 hours if you intend to do the whole thing – plus a bit of time to enjoy the views.

Top tips for walking the Loma del Pilege Tumbado

Here are some of our top tips for this fantastic hike in El Chalten.

1 / You don’t need to walk the entire route. There are numerous opportunities to stop at Miradors, and not continue on to the rest of the hike. It’s almost as if each section gets harder and harder, until you reach the final peak.

Even the first Mirador offers fabulous views, so there’s no requirement to keep going to the end. But, I will say that it is worth the effort if you can.

2 / Hiking boots/ shoes with grips are ideal. The final climb involves loose gravel and steep incline. You’ll come unstuck on this final stage if you don’t have shoes with good grips.

3 / Hiking poles aren’t required, but you may want to consider taking them for the final climb. The descent in particular is quite tricky without poles.

4 / Sections of the this trail are very steep. Speaking of the last climb – it’s not for the fainthearted! It is really steep. I nearly gave up half way. Plus, anyone uncomfortable with heights might struggle.

5 / Pack snacks/ a picnic and plenty of water. Trust us, you’re going to want to spend a while at the peak enjoying the scenery.

Easy Hikes in El Chalten

If you’re looking for an easy hike in El Chalten, we would recommend two different hikes.

Three: Laguna Torre Hike

Laguna Torre is one of the most popular hikes in El Chalten. It is an enjoyable hike, one where you can get some speed up due to the flat ground. There are some delightful view points and the walk ends at the vast Laguna Torre.

Laguna Torre Hike: Key points

Laguna Torre is one of the best hikes in El Chalten. Here are the key points you need to know:

This walk starts at the back of town, off Los Charitos street. As you climb up, you get views back over El Chalten. Stop along the route to take in the various Miradors (view points) including Mirador Margarita which provides views out across the river.

As you get closer to the Lagoon, you’ll start to see incredible glaciers in the distance, before following the river all the way to the lake.

If we are being totally honest, we were a little underwhelmed on arrival to the Lagoon. Laguna Torre is not as pretty as others in the area – it lacks the turquoise hue. It can also get a little windy at the lake, making it less fun to enjoy a picnic than elsewhere.

That said, the hike overall is rewarding and unique – making it, in our view, one of the best hikes in Laguna Torre.

How long is the Laguna Torre hike?

The guide time for the Laguna Torre hike is four hours 45 minutes. We walked quickly, enjoying the flat ground, and were there and back in three hours. It’s feasible to do this hike in the morning and have an afternoon free for other activities. Or, to spend longer enjoying the walk and unwind by the lagoon for a few hours.

Is the Laguna Torre hike difficult?

We describe the Laguna Torre hike as an “easy” hike, because in the context of El Chalten it is an easier hike than others. Some may find that the distance makes it a little challenging, but the terrain and the lack of elevation makes the hike easy to moderate, but not difficult.

Four: Laguna Capri Hike

The Laguna Capri hike is a short hike starting in El Chalten and finishing at a stunning lake.

Laguna Capri Hike: Key points

Laguna Capri is one of the best hikes in El Chalten. Here are the key details you need to know:

Laguna Capri is a stunning lake, a calm pool of water overlooked by the looming mountains of El Chalten. This is, in my view, the perfect short walk in El Chalten if you want to stretch your legs, but without committing a full day to a hike.

A 9.5km hike, inclusive of the return leg, you’ll follow the first section of the Fitz Roy/ Laguna de los tres trail. But, when the rest of the hikers continue to the tough bit of the walk, you’ll peel off to the lagoon.

If the weather is very hot, you can enjoy shaded pathways to the lake, before relaxing by the water. The lake is freezing, so a dip can certainly help you cool off.

At the lake, you’ll find a wild camping site and a toilet. So, if you wanted to stay overnight in a tent you could. Personally, I’d prefer to head back to the buzzy village of El Chalten for some good food and even better drinks!

What to pack & take with you for you day hikes in El Chalten

A short guide to what to pack/ take with you on your day hikes in El Chalten.

1 / Food & plenty of water – once on the hiking trails, you won’t find refreshments or facilities, so it’s best to think ahead. Having tried pretty much every Empanada in El Chalten, we highly recommend the delicious baked treats from a cafe called Simple on the main drag of the village. Pack a few of these in your bag for a delicious lunch treat.

2 / Hiking poles or a sturdy stick – it’s not absolutely required, but Fitz Roy and Loma del Pilegue Tumbado you may benefit from the extra help.

3 / Pack multiple layers – the weather in Patagonia can change on a pin. I always packed a day pack with trousers/ shorts (wear one and carry the other), a sweater, a rainproof jacket, a waterproof bag cover and a woolen hat. Even if the weather is fine when you leave in the morning, it might change by the day you reach the peak.

4 / Prepare for sun – the sun in the mountains can be intense. Consider packing and wearing SPF 50 and take/ wear a sun hat. It can get pretty windy in the alpine environment, so pick a hat that you won’t have to chase down a mountain.

Hiking boots or trainers for hiking in El Chalten?

I walked in El Chalten in my walking boots (Nortiv 8 Armadillo) for most of the time and felt these were perfect for the hikes. Hiking boots gave me more confidence climbing over rocks and on loose surfaces.

John walked in trail shoes (Hoka Speed Goat 5s) and was happy in these too. Most people wear hiking boots but we saw plenty of trail shoes too.

Multi-day treks El Chalten

Multi-day treks are a popular activity in El Chalten. We opted for day hikes only this time around, so I can’t give too much of a recommendation as to the best multi-day treks in the area. That said, here are some of the most popular:

1 / Viedma Glacier Trek/ Huemul Circuit – a four day trek requiring a guide. More detail in “things to do in El Chalten” section of this post.

2 / Laguna de Los Tres to Laguna Torre – combining two of our favorite hikes into a 42km multi-day trek. This is an inexpensive option and does not require a guide. But you’ll need to take your own tent.

3 / El Pilar – Laguna de los Tres – Laguna Torre – El Chaltén – a challenging point to point trail of 30km. A popular trail for camping over two days.

How to get to El Chalten

There are four ways to get to El Chalten.

By Car: Many people choose to drive in Argentina for the ultimate road trip. For this reason, driving to El Chalten is a popular choice. Keep in mind that driving distances in Argentina are big and the roads are not always in the best condition. In fact, we experienced gravel roads for approximately 70km on last few hours into El Chalten on Route 40.

For more information on driving in Argentina – find our most here.

By Bus: Regular tourist buses run into and out of El Chalten on a daily basis from most major hubs. If you have specific travel dates in mind, we recommend booking in advance. A bus from Bariloche to El Chalten will take 26 hours, from El Bolson around 24 hours and from El Calafate around 3 hours.

By Plane: The nearest airport to El Chalten is in El Calafate, which is 2.5 hours (200km away.) There are regular internal flights between El Calafate and hubs like Bariloche & Buenos Aires. You can take a bus from El Calafate airport to El Chalten.

Hitchhiking: Whilst we did not try this, many people do choose to hitch hike, particularly between El Calafate and El Chalten.

Where to stay in El Chalten

El Chalten has a great range of accommodation, however, it can get booked up quite quickly. We recommend planning ahead to get the best deals. And, do keep in mind that prices are a little higher than elsewhere in Argentina.

BUDGET: If you’re on a budget in El Chalten, we would recommend going for a hostel in a central location. Such as:

Rancho Grande Hostel – this one is super if you want a central location in town. It offers mixed-dorm rooms or budget double rooms.

Mistico Hostel – found above a popular bar in the centre of El Chalten. Guests really love the option to join a communal dinner after a hike.

MID-RANGE: We stayed in an amazing home from home in El Chalten, in the form of a Shepherds Hut. It offered us a little slice of total peace and quiet in the heart of the village. The local host was marvelous, giving us excellent tips for where to eat and what to do (many of which have ended up in this blog post!)

Without further ado – you can book the Shepherds Hut here on Airbnb.

LUXURY: There are two great choices in El Chalten for luxury.

Chalten Suites Hotel

A clean, spacious hotel with beautiful communal spaces, including a library. and mountain views. They also offer an airport shuttle.

Destino Sur Hotel

A deluxe hotel with a full service spa, and fantastic mountain views. Guests give it a 9.4 on expedia.com.

Where to next in Argentina?

You can find our guides to travelling in Argentina below:

• Buenos Aires – a three day itinerary
• Best things to do in Palermo, Buenos Aires
• Dining at Don Julio restaurant in Buenos Aires
• Where to stay in Buenos Aires
• Where to stay in Mendoza
• Our experience of staying in a wine hotel in Mendoza
• Wine cycling in Mendoza – a top experience
• Best hikes in Bariloche
• Best hikes & things to do in El Chalten
• Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier – a guide
• Driving in Argentina: A guide

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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