IS TIRANA WORTH VISITING? HONEST PROS AND CONS.
When it comes to planning a European city break, Tirana, the capital of Albania, may not be the first destination that comes to mind. Equally, when you plan your trip to Albania, you may consider skipping a stay in the capital. However, Tirana happens to be one of my favourite European cities and I firmly believe that it is worth a visit.
Tirana may just surprise you. It has become a modern city, with many areas having had a bit of a “glow up” in recent years. But, it retains an authentic charm and an ease of being, which makes it all the more inviting for a traveller.
In this post, I’ll set out a few considerations to help you decide whether Tirana is worth vistiing for you.
Is Tirana worth visiting? The case for
In my view Tirana is worth visiting – here are eight reasons why.
- Affordable prices
- Small, safe and walkable city
- Coffee culture
- Variety of restaurants
- Eclectic nightlife
- A handful of interesting sights
- Authentic city
- Day trips from Tirana
Read on to find out more about why I think Tirana is worth visiting.
Affordable prices
Compared to other cities in Europe, Tirana is a capital city that won’t cost you the earth to visit. Prices for accommodation and reasonable (although see note below on varying quality). The real bonus is the price of food & drink. This is a city in which you could head out with the equivalent of 20 Euros, and have a great time. A pint of beer will set you back less than 2 Euros, whilst a carafe of wine comes in at around 6 or 7 Euros.
Small, safe and walkable city
Tirana is a compact city, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other. One of my favourite things to do in a new city is to take myself on a personalized walking tour – the layout and size of Tirana make that very easy. There’s even a lovely lake on the outskirts in Tirana Park, with a spot to watch sunset at the end of the day.
Coffee culture
Like any self-respecting European city, Tirana has good coffee.
I spent a number of days in Tirana writing and whilst I did so I had the chance to survey quite a few coffee shops. A reliable chain in Tirana for both coffee and free WiFi is Mulliri i Vjetër. Find stores throughout the city. What I love about this chain, apart from the coffee, is that it doesn’t feel like a chain at all – each store is uniquely aesthetic.
For those looking for more artisan coffee, Antigua specialty coffee shop has all the flat whites and pastries than you could possibly dream of.
Variety of restaurants
One of my standout memories from both of my trips to Albania, has been food. Tirana, as the capital of Albania, does not disappoint when it comes to dining out. If you want fine dining in Albania, head to Mullihxhiu – a restaurant with a tasting menu that many diners describe as “Michelin quality.” There’s also a range of upmarket rooftop restaurants, like Lift Steak restaurant.
Whether you are craving authentic Albanian food, Italian fare or Asian influenced cuisine – you can find it in Tirana.
Visiting in summer is particularly delightful, with a choice of many alfresco dining options along leafy boulevards. Head to the Blloku district, an upscale area of Tirana, housing some of the fancier bars and restaurants of the city. Personally, we preferred the low key bars and restaurants around Kavaja Street, so head there if you’re looking for a more local affair.
Eclectic nightlife
From cocktail bars like Spy Speakeasy and jazz bars like Hemingway Bar, to sticky dive bars and bars that seem to be decorated like your Grandmother’s front room- Tirana has eclectic nightlife. There are a few nightclubs, like Living Room Antik too. Although, I must admit that we spent more time drinking wine on low key boulevards, than we did in nightclubs in Tirana – they are there if you want them!
A handful of interesting sights to visit
While Tirana may not boast an abundance of traditional tourist attractions, it does offer several noteworthy sites. One such area is Skanderbeg Square. Although this wasn’t our favorite spot in Tirana, we could appreciate the allure of spending some time exploring it.
The House of Leaves Museum is an exceptionally captivating exposition on surveillance during Albania’s communist era. Once a medical clinic, it was repurposed by secretive security forces, operating as a covert operations center for spying and interrogation. This well-curated museum is filled with insightful information and poignant exhibits, making it well worth a visit. Tickets are priced at 700 LEK, and we recommend allowing around 90 minutes for the visit.
Tirana also offers two other compelling attractions. While we suggest picking one, if you’re on a budget – we would recommend visiting only The House of Leaves Museum.
The National Museum is situated in Skanderberg Square, offering exhibits that showcase Albania’s history from Roman times to the present day. While the exhibits are fascinating, there is minimal information available in English, posing a bit of a challenge for non-Albanian speakers to fully engage.
A second option is Bunkart 2, a communist-era bunker transformed into an art gallery. Here, the pictures truly speak volumes, depicting the history of the police and security forces during the communist era. The cost of entry is 400 LEK.
It feels like an authentic city
Tirana retains an authentic, unpolished charm that is increasingly rare in many European capitals. Although Tirana has seen a bit of development, it seems that everything has been handled tastefully and carefully to ensure that the authenticity is not lost. Tirana remains a lived-in city, where locals far outweigh tourists – it reminded us of Belgrade in that sense.
Much of the beauty of Tirana is found in moments of reality – buying fruit from a stall, enjoying a beer in a low key dive bar, or taking a stroll through Taiwan Park where locals walk their dogs. And, with the exception of one particularly snooty waiter, we were greeted with warm hospitality wherever we went in the city.
Day trips from Tirana are plentiful
If you wanted to extend your stay in Tirana and take a few day trips, this is very much an option. For a start, Durres, a small beach town is around 45 minutes away by public transport. Alternatively, there are more organised tours – such as a day trip to the imposing Bovilla Lake, or to the historic Kruje Castle and bazaar.
Is Tirana worth visiting? The case against
Here are a few of my views on why Tirana may not meet your expectations.
Accommodation has to be picked carefully
While Tirana offers a range of accommodation, from budget hostels to luxury hotels, the quality can vary significantly. It’s essential to research and choose your lodging carefully to avoid unpleasant surprises. Reading recent reviews and perhaps even opting for established hotel chains can ensure a comfortable stay.
Our experience of staying in Tirana has been quite mixed. We’ve stayed in very lovely apartments, but had to pay cash for our stay- this sort of thing in Tirana is quite common. Whilst carrying cash isn’t too much of an issue, it does eat into your time if you have to organise to meet the host to pay them!
Another experience of Tirana left us staying in an apartment, which we are convinced was actually a show house. We were probably being allowed to stay there until the place sold! It was an amazing space, but we couldn’t help but feel that we were squatting!
There aren’t that many “tourist attractions”
If your idea of a perfect vacation involves ticking off a long list of famous landmarks and tourist attractions, Tirana might not meet your expectations.
The city’s charm lies more in its everyday life, spending time people watching over coffee, and less in its sightseeing opportunities. While there are interesting places to visit, they are fewer in number compared to more traditional tourist destinations such as Athens or Istanbul.
There is so much to see in the rest of Albania
Tirana is an intriguing city and one which we enjoy spending time. That said, Albania offers a plethora of delights to travellers, beyond Tirana. From the beaches of the Albanian Riviera to the mountains of the Albanian Alps – there’s quite simply so much to see and do in the rest of the country, that we could understand if travellers chose not to spend time in the capital city.
If you have two weeks in Albania, we would recommend including a few days in Tirana. It does offer a great contrast to the rest of the country. In fact, we include Tirana on our ideal two week Albania itinerary. That said, if you are travelling for one week only, or just looking to spend time on the beach – then give Tirana a swerve.
Albania Travel Guide
If you’re looking for a more detailed travel guide for Albania, you can now purchase our Short Guide to Albania. A 119 page ebook, detailing the best experiences in Albania, vital information to help you travel and suggested itineraries. Buy it now in our online shop.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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