LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Pinterest

---

10 BEST THINGS TO DO IN RAGUSA: A GUIDE TO VISITING RAGUSA IN SICILY.

---

We’ll always have a soft spot for Ragusa, having spent five nights in the town. When we arrived in Sicily, we craved a place that felt untouched, somewhere to blend in quietly with the locals and live like we belonged. Isn’t that always what we should seek when we travel? For us, Ragusa became that sanctuary.

In Ragusa we found ourselves drawn to simple pleasures: a morning espresso in Piazza San Giovanni, casual exchanges with locals, and unhurried strolls through the back alleys of Ragusa Ibla.

Ragusa offered a balance we didn’t know we needed – calm yet full of life, historic but not frozen in time. In this guide, I’ll share a few of the places that made our stay memorable, along with some insider tips to help you experience Ragusa well.

Ragusa: Know before you go

One Italian word that I quickly learnt when I was in Ragusa was “scala” meaning stairs. This is because the town of Ragusa is divided into two distinct areas spread on two sides of a valley – connected by some seriously steep and dramatic steps.

Before you visit Ragusa, it’s important to be aware of both the geography of the town and the distinction between Ragusa Ibla (the old town) and Ragusa Superiore (the modern centre of town.) You will want to keep this in mind when selecting where to stay. As well as when planning your day and thinking about how much walking you want to do.  

Getting between Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla

There are three ways to get between Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla.

WALK – You can walk between the two areas of the town. If you are in Ragusa Superiore, then the walk down to Ragusa Ibla is pretty epic and I would absolutely recommend it. Not only are the views quite special, but you’ll be walking downhill, mainly via steps. From the centre of Superiore to Ibla takes 20-30 minutes depending on pace.

Top tip – make time to stop off in the Church of Santa Maria and visit the area around Plaza Cosentini. This is the small area between Superiore and Ibla and you’d miss it if you weren’t walking.

Keep in mind that if you are staying in Ragusa Ibla and want to visit Ragusa Superiore, the climb up is quite steep. Best avoided in the heat of the day. And best to take a few breaks to steady yourself!

TAXI – It is possible to take a taxi between the two areas. It should take around 10 minutes.

SHUTTLE BUS – The ideal solution is for getting between Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla is to take the free shuttle bus. Buses depart from Giardino Ibleo (in Ibla) and head to Piazza del Popolo (Superiore.) We couldn’t find the exact timetable, but we believe that buses run every 15-20 minutes.

Personally, I’d opt to always walk down from Superiore to Ibla (if you can) and take the shuttle bus up the hill in the other direction.

Things to do in Ragusa

When we visit a place as special as Ragusa, we prefer to move quietly and take our time. These are our recommendations for the best things to do in Ragusa, all in keeping with that slower pace.

SUNSET DRINKS AT AL GRADINO 284

If you do nothing else in Ragusa, do this. Al Gradino 284 is a bar, conveniently located on Largo Santa Maria, which is the best place you can go to get views down to Ragusa Ibla. Instead of seats, you’ll be given a step (complete with a cushion) and a mini-table to sit down and enjoy the scenery. Most people opt for Aperitivio – Spritz and a mixed sharing board (absolutely worth the extra 5 Euros.)

Our top tip – it is best to arrive here at around 18:30 when the bar opens to secure a great seat. We arrived a touch after 19:00, having timed our visit with the impending sun set. We were lucky to get the last seat (step) and the many couples arriving after us were not so fortunate.  

And one tiny little caveat – you cannot actually see sunset from here (it faces East). But you still get the best of “golden hour” light on the horizon before dusk. It really is very magical.

SETTLE IN FOR A TASTING MENU

Ragusa is home to two Michelin-starred restaurants. Ristorante Duomo a two-starred restaurant, run by chef Ciccio Sultano, offers an 8-course tasting menu, Stupor Mundi, for 180 Euros, showcasing Sicily’s rich culinary heritage with modern flair. The restaurant is housed in a beautiful 18th-century palace.

For a more intimate experience, head to Locanda Don Serafino, a one-starred restaurant set inside a former wine cellar. Their tasting menus start at 130 Euros and feature local ingredients presented with a contemporary twist.

For something a little different, you can learn to cook pasta and Tiramisu the Sicilian way on this highly rated cooking course.

WATCH THE WORLD GO BY IN PIAZZA SAN GIOVANNI

One of the routines that we fell into during our stay in Ragusa was to start our day with a cappuccino and cornetto at one of the many cafés in Piazza San Giovanni. This lively square is the heart of the modern town and I never tired of gazing up at the Cathedral.

Arrive early to soak in the calm, as the square slowly comes to life with locals picking up their morning papers and exchanging warm greetings.

As the sun goes down and evening sets in, the piazza transforms once again, perfect for aperitivo. The air fills with the sound of clinking glasses and soft conversations as locals gather on the church steps, unwinding with an aperitivo or two. If you’re lucky, you might even catch some live music and dancing in the square.

VISIT CATHEDRAL SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA

Dating back to the 18th century, the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista dominates Ragusa Superiore. Its ornate Baroque façade is an architectural masterpiece, with twin bell towers and an intricately designed dome. The interior is equally impressive, featuring marble altars and elaborate frescoes. This was John’s favourite church in Sicily – so we hope you love it too!

Even more awesome than the cathedral, are the grounds and the trees outside that have evolved and grown over the years to look like old witches.

The Cathedral is free to enter and explore at your leisure.

DINE AT A TRADITIONAL TRATTORIA

As we’ve mentioned more than a few times, Ragusa is a foody paradise. At 17:00 every night we would begin a spirited debate about which restaurant to visit – I’d nominate on, putting forward what I thought was an impressive Google Review score of 4.7, and John would trump it with a 4.9.  Despite having five nights in Ragusa, it still felt that there were too many restaurants to choose from.

Suffice to say, we think we hunted out some of the best trattorias in Ragusa. I should caveat this to say that we didn’t eat in Ragusa Ibla, instead focusing our efforts on Ragusa Superiore, which has more of a local vibe.

Our three favourites were:

Giro Di Vite Osteria e Pizza served some of the best pizzas we had in Sicily. But what really sells this place is the cute garden terrace, like eating in a little green paradise.

Pizzeria Trattoria Ratatouille – for absolute value (one of our least expensive meals in Sicily) and a fully local atmosphere – this is the type of place that has a TV on the wall inside the dining room, normally a good sign. Even if a little off putting during supper. It’s a little out of the way, but well worth it.

Finally, the ultimate restaurant in Ragua has to be La Taverna Del Lupo. This restaurant spills out onto a gorgeous piazza with a church, far from the crowds of Ragusa Ibla. They have daily specials, as well as some fantastic Primi plates. And, importantly – they serve local wine by the carafe. Just be sure to make a reservation here at least a day in advance, it is a very popular place.

VISIT DUOMO DI SAN GIORGIO

The Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla is an awe-inspiring sight. Built after the 1693 earthquake, the cathedral boasts a stunning Baroque façade with ornate columns and a towering dome.

Inside, you’ll find a rather unique red colour scheme and religious artwork that creates a sense of grandeur and reverence. When we visited, we were lucky enough to catch an organist rehearsing, and it felt like being at a Phantom of the Opera showing, the church around us oozing drama along with the music.

TAKE IN THE HISTORY OF RAGUSA IBLA

Ragusa Ibla’s winding streets and ancient buildings make it a great place for a walking tour.

Explore its history with a guided tour, where you’ll learn about the town’s post-earthquake reconstruction and its Baroque architecture.

Try this well rated walking tour, which includes a food tasting.

BROWSE ARTISAN STORES

Ragusa Ibla is home to a variety of artisan shops where you can purchase handmade ceramics, traditional Moor’s heads (ceramic sculptures of Sicilian legends), and local food products like honey and olive oil. These shops are perfect for picking up souvenirs that capture the essence of Sicily.

MEANDER AROUND GIARDINO IBLEO

Established in the 19th century, the Giardino Ibleo is home to a variety of trees, fountains, and statues.

The gardens offer a chance to grab some much-needed shade in the summertime. But, there’s more to this area than just a few trees and benches – be sure to visit the hidden chapel towards the back of the gardens – Church of San Giacomo Apostolo.

We were delighted to discover this church, which has connections to the confraternity of St James – connecting Ragusa to the Camino de Santiago (a famous pilgrimage in Spain.)

Entry to the church is on a donation basis and you’ll be given a leaflet with more information about the building. We were particularly wowed by the painted ceiling, carefully painted to give the effect of an elaborate domed roof.

GO WINE TASTING

For a modern twist on Sicilian tradition, head to Bottega Cappellani, a contemporary wine bar in Ragusa Ibla that serves local wines by the glass. You can sample a variety of wines from the surrounding region, including the famous Nero d’Avola and Frappato. The bar has a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for winding down after a day of exploring.

FLOCK TO MARINA DI RAGUSA

Despite being an inland town, Ragusa has a popular shoreline. Bear with me on this one.

The region of Ragusa has laid claim to a stretch of sandy beach some 20km away from the town of the same name. Starting on Friday evenings and ending some time on Sunday night, locals from Ragusa largely de-camp to the coast to bathe in the sea, eat seafood at the beachfront restaurants and make all kinds of merriment.

So, if you like things a bit festive, you might want to visit on the weekend. Otherwise, visit during the week for a little more peace and quiet.

Marina di Ragusa has the usual Italian mix of some stretches of public beach, as well as Lidos where you can rent sunbeds and umbrellas for the day.

Our schedule didn’t allow for us to visit Marina Di Ragusa, but we did visit nearby Pozzallo, a few kms further along the coast. And our research indicates that you can find the same wide sandy beaches in Marina Di Ragusa as in Pozzallo.

Buses are regular from Ragusa down to the beach from the main bus station or you can take a cab.

CONSIDER A DAY TRIP

Ragusa is geographically well placed to take a day trip to numerous other sites, especially if you have access to a hire car. From Ragusa, the majestic site of the Valley of the Temples just outside Agrigento is accessible in a day. It is also possible to get to the coast – either to Marina di Ragusa, or further afield – perhaps to Foce del fiume Irminio (a coastal nature reserve.)

By public transport, it is possible to very easily get to Modica. A beautiful Baroque town, which is also part of the Val di Noto and found only 20 minutes away by bus. We really enjoyed Modica and felt that one day to explore is plenty. You can find our guide to the 10 best things to do in Modica here.

Where to stay in Ragusa

When deciding where to stay in Ragusa, you’ll need to consider whether to base yourself in Ragusa Ibla or Ragusa Superiore.

RAGUSA IBLA

The former is the old town, with an enchanting piazza around the Duomo and quaint streets. This is the best choice if perhaps you have only one night and want to stay in the most “quintessentially beautiful” area. It may not be the best choice if you are on a budget, accommodation is a little more expensive in Ragusa Ibla. Here are some of the best places to stay in Ragusa Ibla:

MID-RANGE: Terraza del Sogni has a super location in Ragusa Ibla, but a little away from the crowds of Piazza Duomo. The highlight is a large shared terrace with views of the town.

LUXURY: Honestly, there are so many fantastic places to stay in Ragusa Ibla if your budget can stretch to a little more.

Consider Piazza Duomo 36 – for drinks on your private terrace overlooking the Duomo, and opulent decor.

Giardino Sul Duomo for quiet luxury with a swimming pool.

RAGUSA SUPERIORE

We chose to stay in Ragusa Superiore for a few reasons. Firstly, it is the “centre” of town and most convenient for taking public transportation into and out of Ragusa. Secondly, although we like Ragusa Ibla, it attracts many tourists and perhaps lacks the feeling of normality offered in Ragusa Superiore. We loved our evenings spent on our terrace watching Sicilian life unfold beneath us. Finally, there is a vast selection of bars and restaurants in Ragusa Superiore, without “tourist prices”.

Here are a few of the best places to stay in Ragusa Superiore:

BUDGET: Le Stanze del Sole is a good value B&B with rooms. The location is great, on the outskirts of Superiore, but towards Ibla. Perfectly located if you plan to visit both areas.

MID-RANGE: We stayed in La Scala Verde and it was one of our favourite stays in Sicily. The hosts are so helpful and welcoming, plus each room is uniquely designed to one of four seasons.

LUXURY: Relais Antica Badia is the height of opulence in Ragusa Superiore. The location is close to Ragusa Ibla, but also in the action of Superiore – an easy stroll to the Duomo.

How to get to Ragusa

With a few exceptions, we are advocates for taking public transport whenever we travel. In Sicily, we found that buses and trains were accessible, reliable (mostly) and affordable. You can get to Ragusa using public transport and do not need a hire car to travel here.

The best way to get to Ragusa is on bus. There are two bus companies operating on the route. AST and Trenitalia. We use the Omio site to book our buses normally and were able to book a bus to Ragusa. It is well connected by bus to Modica, Syracuse and Catania.

Do note, the bus stop in Ragusa is around 10 minutes walk from Ragusa Superiore in the more “modern” part of town. If you want to get to Ragusa Ibla, you will need to walk, take a cab or jump on the shuttle bus (HyBus).

Where to next in Sicily?

We’ve got loads of similar guides to help you explore Sicily more. Find them below:

• One day in Palermo: A guide to seeing the best bits
• Visiting Mondello Beach from Palermo
• One day in Cefalu: A day trip from Palermo
• One idyllic day in Syracuse & Ortigia
• Palermo or Catania: Where should you start your Sicily adventures?
• One day in the city of Catania: An unexpected gem
• Day trips from Catania: 9 of the best
• Best things to do in Modica for the day
• A guide to Ragusa: things to do and where to stay
• Modica or Ragusa – which is better?
• Pozzallo Beach – the traditional sandy beach town dream
• Best things to do in Sutera, Sicily
• Walking in Sicily on the Magna Via Francigena
• A two week itinerary in Sicily – how to travel without a car

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

---

• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Pinterest

---

---

Most of our planning is done using other blogs, but you can’t beat a guide book at the bottom of your case.

Find them here on Amazon.

---