AN ISLAND GUIDE TWO DAYS IN SAO JORGE: THINGS TO DO IN SAO JORGE + WHERE TO STAY.
São Jorge, the narrow sliver of a landmass in the Atlantic, was to be the last island we would visit on our tour of the Azores.
Perhaps it was the fact that we stayed in an apartment with an extravagant terrace and view of Pico mountain, perhaps because it was Christmas, or because there are some stunning hikes, or perhaps because we had some lovely sunshine. For whatever reason, São Jorge just seemed to fit us like a glove.
And by that, I mean that I spent a good couple of hours browsing property hell-bent on moving to the island. Suffice to say, it’s not quite in my budget. But you mark my words, São Jorge, I will return.
In this blog post, we will share our experience of visiting São Jorge. Including, the best things to do over two days, where to stay and how to get around the island.
Is São Jorge worth visiting + why
Definitely. São Jorge is one of the quieter, less-touristy islands in the Azores, but it has all the hallmarks that make the region so special: dramatic scenery, a strong sense of tradition, and excellent food. Hikers are really quite spoiled for choice, I had a long list of about 10 different hikes I wanted to do and had to narrow it down to just two.
What sets it apart are the fajãs—flat coastal plains created by landslides or lava flows—that sit tucked beneath its towering cliffs. These make the scenery of São Jorge totally different to the other island. Add to that some pretty darn good cheese friendly locals, and an unhurried pace of life, and São Jorge is well worth a visit.
Finally, São Jorge is quite popular for surfing. Subsequently, it does have quite a laidback “surf” sort of vibe, which we really enjoyed.
How to get to São Jorge
There are no direct flights into São Jorge’s small airport from the UK, USA, or mainland Europe. Instead, you’ll need to fly via São Miguel or Terceira. Terceira is the closest, with a super-short flight time of just 20 minutes (we had barely taken off before landing again).
We arrived on São Jorge by ferry from Pico Island. The boat takes about 45 minutes from São Roque (in the north of Pico) to Velas, São Jorge’s capital. Tickets cost less than €10, and ferries run daily.
You can book all ferries in advance through Direct Ferries (which charges a small booking fee) or directly with Atlântico Line (a bit clunky to use, but no extra fees).
If you do get the ferry, look out for whales as you cross. Apparently it’s quite common to see them in this stretch of water.
Do you need a car in São Jorge
A car is essential if you want to explore São Jorge in depth. There are some buses, but they’re infrequent and won’t take you to the more remote areas. Let’s put it this way: we ended up picking up a hitchhiking German tourist who had decided not to hire a car and deeply regretted it.
São Jorge doesn’t have as many tour operators as nearby Faial or Pico, so renting a car is the best way to make the most of your time here. That said, there are one or two tour guides who will take you on a full day to explore Sao Jorge. Many will tailor trips to your interest too. But, keep in mind that tours are likely to be more expensive than hiring a car. Check out this full day tour of the island to give you an idea.
The roads felt narrower than on other islands, but they’re generally in good condition. Just stick to the main routes along the south coast and avoid venturing onto farm tracks.
We rented our car through Ilha Verde, picking it up at the ferry port and dropping it off at the airport. It was straightforward, and the extra €11 for airport drop-off was worth it for the convenience.
You can find our guide to driving in The Azores here.
Two days in São Jorge: our itinerary + map
Here is our guide to spending two great days on São Jorge. All locations mentioned below are found in the map.
Day One: Peaks, Pools and Plantations
Mount Esperança
We began our day with a hike to the top of Mount Esperança, São Jorge’s highest peak. The trail was steady, with plenty of moments to pause and take in the surroundings—rolling hills covered in green pastures.
At the summit, the views would ordinarily be stunning but unfortunately, as is Azorean weather, we were surrounded by cloud when we reached the top. On a clear day, you can see Pico, Faial, and Graciosa floating – but no such luck for us.
The trail is relatively easy and nowhere near as strenuous as climbing Pico! So, if you want to conquer a mountain on the Azorean islands, but don’t fancy committing to Pico, Esperanca may be the one for you.
The drive to Esperanca is straight forward, but we decided to park around 1.5km before the trailhead as the road was not tarmacked and we didn’t want to damage our hire car. It was easy to pull over on the road and park safely.
Details for the Esperanca trail can be found here on All Trails. We chose to take the direct route up and back, a 7 mile out and back trail. If you have more time, there’s a longer 21-mile trail (the PR4 SJO) which ends in Norte Grande. This is an out and back trail so you can park in Norte Grande.
Calheta + Fajã Grande
After descending, we made our way to Calheta, a charming little town on the coast. We stopped for a coffee and a pastel de nata at a café near the harbour, soaking in the quiet, unhurried vibe.
Then it was on to Fajã Grande, where the natural pools beckoned. Carved into the volcanic rock, these pools offered a perfect place to pause and rest after the hike. Had it been warmer, we would have had a dip but on a cloudy late December day, it was not meant to be!
Fajã dos Vimes Coffee and hiking
In the afternoon, we visited the Fajã dos Vimes area, famous for its small-scale coffee plantation. We were welcomed warmly at Café Nunes to enjoy a cup of their unique brew. You can also organise tours of the plantation and if you’re enjoying the coffee, take a bag home with you.
We didn’t quite have enough in our legs after climbing Esperanca, but if you want more hiking, then the PR3 SJO in this area comes highly recommended. A 6 miles point to point hike (12 miles out and back), it takes you from Fajã de São Joao to Fajã dos Vimes. We hear the trail is steep and slippery in sections, but has some quite special views.
Velas Highlights
To finish the day, we returned to Velas, the island’s capital. As we were there at Christmas, we enjoyed the absolutely incredible Christmas decorations (some of the best we found in the Azores).
We spent the late afternoon nosing around the harbour, the quirky gift stores, seeing the Arco Natural de Velas (a rock that gives Durdle Door a run for it’s money) and the natural pools. Quiet in the winter, but I expect brimming with activity in summer.
We also swung by Apneia Bar (hidden behind the library), where we had hoped to get a drink. It wasn’t open when we were there – but I think it would be an ideal place for a casual drink at sunset.
As we were visiting over public holidays, we decided to pick a self-catered apartment and we predominately cooked supper ourselves, rather than eating out. In all honesty, we weren’t particularly excited by the restaurants in Velas, many had mixed reviews. The bars and restaurants of Velas didn’t quite have the same pull as those in Horta did for us!
Ultimately, we were happy with our decision to stock up on delicious ingredients at the large supermarket in town and relax on our terrace with views to Pico. The apartment we stayed at is Blue Planet, and I could not recommend it enough.
Day Two: Hikes, Cheese, and Coastal Beauty
Fajã dos Cubres to Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo trail
We started early on the Fajã dos Cubres to Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo trail, one of the island’s iconic hikes. The path was lush and green, hugging the dramatic coastline and offering sweeping views for the entire walk. After a couple of hours, we reached Fajã da Caldeira Santo Cristo, a small, serene hamlet with a lagoon at its heart.
There’s something special about this area of São Jorge. It feels remote, naturally beautiful and raw. We were the only ones walking on the route. And as Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo can only be reached on foot (or quad bike), we felt that we were visiting somewhere a little secret.
There’s a lovely local restaurant here, it looks like a charming little house. Sadly for us it wasn’t open (being Christmas), but we had packed a picnic and we sat out on the lagoon enjoying it.
Afterward, we watched surfers tackle the waves just beyond the lagoon, losing track of time as we relaxed.
Piscina Natural “Simão Dias”
Next, we visited Piscina Natural “Simão Dias”, another natural swimming pool carved from volcanic rock. This pool is found at the edge of Norte Grande town, a short drive from the hike. So, visiting both is a great combo. If you have good weather, spend a while relaxing here.
Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes
In the afternoon, we drove west to the Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes, a serene forest park filled with shaded trails and picnic areas. Even in winter, there were plenty of pink roses peaking through. In summer, this is a popular picnic spot. In the park is an old fashioned outdoor laundry and a small chapel.
We considered driving to the lighthouse at the very west of the island, Farol dos Rosais, but the track leading up to it did not look hire car friendly, so we skipped it.
São Jorge Cheese
São Jorge is known as the cheese island. Ever since we learnt this, we can’t get over how much São Jorge cheese we have seen in the shops on mainland Portugal. Considering the size of the island, they export rather a lot of cheese.
We couldn’t resist a quick stop at União de Cooperativas Agricolas de Lacticínios de São Jorge – a cheese factory just outside Velas. You can take a tour for €5 or just taste and buy some cheese. There’s also a coffee shop inside. It’s worth a quick stop and you’ll get the best prices for cheese here.
That said, if you are also visiting Terceira island, there’s a more atmospheric cheese factory /coffee shop combo there (Queijo Vaquinha)– so if you have to choose, pick that one.
As you drive from the cheese factory back into Velas, look out fo the Cheese Roundabout (simply a roundabout that’s been made to look like a wheel of cheese.) I’m not sure why this pleased me so much, but every time I drove past it, it made me smile. Just a little São Jorge quirk.
More things to do in São Jorge
I’ll be honest. We visited the island over Christmas and whilst we were in São Jorge for longer than two days, we spent a lot of time relaxing on our balcony and eating, rather than exploring! Because of this, and the season we visited, there were a few things we did not get round to doing on São Jorge.
Based on our research, these are a few more of the best things to do in São Jorge.
Surfing at Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo: São Jorge is known for its excellent surf spots, and Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo is one of the most famous. As noted above, you can’t get there by car, you have to walk or take a quad bike (you can usually pay someone to take you like a quad bike cab.)
Visit Urzelina: A quaint village with a unique lava tower and charming streets.
Explore Fajã de São João: Another beautiful coastal plain with traditional cottages and stunning views.
Go whale watching: São Jorge’s waters are full of life, offering fantastic opportunities to spot whales and dolphins. You can arrange boat tours in advance of arriving – contact Sea Explorers.
Try snorkelling: For a bit of adventure, São Jorge’s dramatic landscapes are ideal for snorkelling. Check out this snorkelling tour.
Natural Pools: There are lots of lovely natural pools around the island, too many to mention here. In the map at the top of this blog post, you can find the best ones tagged.
Where to stay in São Jorge
In winter, it’s best to pick Velas, as most accommodation is found here and there’s more to do in the evening. Many tourists also choose to stay in Calheta, and there are some lovely rural properties around too. Here are our top picks:
BUDGET: There aren’t really any decent hostels in Velas for budget travellers. Many budget travellers may choose campsites instead. One of the prettiest locations in Camping Calheta, which is more or less right on the water.
Alternatively, Hospedaria Australia offers low key private rooms in town that may suit anyone on a budget.
MID-RANGE: We stayed at Blue Planet in Velas and it was absolutely glorious. We picked the two bed apartment with a huge terrace and views to Pico. I highly recommend it.
If you’d rather somewhere more rural, consider Quinta da Magnolia, near Urzelina.
A quaint accommodation offering with a swimming pool.
LUXURY: For luxury resorts, it’s best to look outside Velas. We walked past Kuanza Nature Experience and it definitely caught my eye. It is found in a wonderful location to the north of the island, Fajã do Belo. This place is well and truly remote, but a spectacular place if you want the sound of the ocean and nothing more.
The Triangle Islands
São Jorge, Pico and Faial make up the three Triangle Islands of The Azores. Although the islands are neighbours, they all offer something totally different and unique. Find our guides to all three below.
PICO ISLAND
Known as they “grey island” and famous for wine, volcanic landscape and Mount Pico.
SAO JORGE
Known for the dramatic Fajãs, hiking trails, cheese and surfing.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
Christmas in the Azores: Surprisingly Festive in the Mid-Atlantic
CHRISTMAS IN THE AZORES: WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU VISIT. When we decided to spend Christmas in the Azores, we weren’t sure what to expect. A cluster of volcanic islands adrift in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean might not scream “festive spirit” – especially with mild winter temperatures, subtropical greenery, and the odd flamingo-pink…
Pico or Faial Island: Which Azores Island Should You Visit?
PICO OR FAIAL ISLAND: WHICH AZORES ISLAND SHOULD YOU CHOOSE? If you’re heading to the Azores and have narrowed it down to the triangle islands — Pico, Faial, and maybe São Jorge — you might be wondering: should I go to Pico or Faial? I visited both, and while they’re only 25 minutes apart by…
São Miguel or Terceira: Which Azores Island Should You Visit?
SAO MIGUEL OR TERCEIRA: WHICH ISLAND SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO VISIT? When I first started planning a trip to the Azores, all the attention seemed to be on São Miguel. It’s the biggest island, the one with the famous crater lakes and hot springs, and it pops up constantly in glossy travel reels. But then…
Most of our planning is done using other blogs, but you can’t beat a guide book at the bottom of your case. Find yours on here and get the travelling started!
USEFUL LINKS FOR FLIGHTS, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT
CHECK LATEST FLIGHTS
ACTIVITIES TO CONSIDER
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Please note that some links on our website are partnered with affiliates. Using an affiliate links does not make it more expensive for you to purchase. We receive a small commission whenever you buy something which in turn allows us to keep writing independent travel guides and your support is greatly appreciated.