SAO MIGUEL OR TERCEIRA: WHICH ISLAND SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO VISIT?
When I first started planning a trip to the Azores, all the attention seemed to be on São Miguel. It’s the biggest island, the one with the famous crater lakes and hot springs, and it pops up constantly in glossy travel reels. But then I stumbled across a few whispers about Terceira—a smaller, less showy island with colourful towns, lush green hills, and fewer crowds.
So, I did what any indecisive traveller would do—I visited both.
They’re only a short flight apart, but São Miguel and Terceira feel like two very different worlds. One is more geared up for visitors, with bucket-list sights and a decent tour infrastructure. The other moves at a gentler pace, full of quirky details and slower days. Choosing between them really depends on what kind of trip you’re after.
Here’s a detailed comparison to help you decide: beaches, food, hikes, towns, getting around and everything else you might be wondering about.
Best for Foodies
São Miguel
The food scene in São Miguel is solid, especially in Ponta Delgada. It leans a little more touristy, but you can still find great local bites if you look beyond the central square.
Highlights for uswere wine bars by the marina and a rustic dinner at Apito Dourado—nothing fancy, just decent hearty food. If you’re into liqueurs or pineapples, there’s some fun tasting options too.
Terceira
Terceira surprised me here. Eating out in Angra do Heroísmo felt easier and more affordable. Wine for €2, generous portions, and spots like O Chico (local favourite) serving great seafood and meat dishes. There are also proper hidden gems—like sipping espresso while watching cheese being made at Queijo Vaquinha. It felt less polished but more authentic.
Verdict: Terceira wins for value and atmosphere, São Miguel for variety and access to fancier options. If you like your food scene upmarket, then you’ll prefer São Miguel. For more rustic, heartier fare, pick Terceira.
Best Beaches + Swimming
São Miguel
Most beaches are black sand, with Praia dos Mosteiros being the pick—dramatic coastline and rock formations. For something unique, Termas de Ferraria (a hot spring in the sea!) is well worth a visit, especially at low tide. But many beaches feel more functional than beautiful.
São Miguel is home to oodles of hot springs, not just the one in the sea. So if visiting in winter, when beaches are less relevant, you may want to gravitate to the warm waters of this island.
Terceira
Terceira has more aesthetically pleasing spots. Zona Balnear do Negrito is a standout—natural pools, quiet vibe, and lovely in the morning light. Praia da Vitória on the east coast offers a proper sandy beach with a long promenade. Even the beach in Angra felt surprisingly lovely, almost Cornish in its cove-like setting.
Verdict: Terceira. The beaches feel more intentional and pleasant for a lazy afternoon swim or stroll. But for hot springs – São Miguel is your best bet.
Best for Hiking
São Miguel
São Miguel has more iconic landscapes—Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo, jungle-covered hot springs. The 20km route around Sete Cidades or the tea field loop near Gorreana are fantastic and both very accessible. But note, these hikes can be popular, so it’s best to cast your net a bit more widely if you want a quieter trail.
Terceira
Terceira’s hikes feel wilder and less touristy. Trails like Serreta-Lagoinha or Misterios Negros are proper forested adventures. Nothing was too long, and trailheads were easy to access with a car. Plus, you can double up some shorter hikes if you’re keen.
Verdict: Terceira again, especially if you prefer less trodden, mossy forest trails over volcanic vistas. But if you want to go home with Instagram worthy photos with crazy scenery, then Sao Miguel may be better for you.
Accommodation & Atmosphere
São Miguel
Ponta Delgada has everything: from budget hostels to high-end hotels like Vila Galé. But it does have a gritty side from what we saw—visible homelessness, a bit of a party edge at night, and not always the most comfortable solo walking after dark. If you want nightlife, it’s here.
Terceira
Angra do Heroísmo was our favourite capital in the Azores. Pastel buildings, easy-going evenings, loads of good bars and cafés. Accommodation options are good and often better value. It felt safer and more relaxed.
Verdict: Terceira for charm and comfort. São Miguel has more variety, but Angra wins for vibe.
Getting Around
São Miguel
You can get away without hiring a car thanks to decent tours, especially from Ponta Delgada. The roads are excellent—arguably the best in the Azores—but parking in town can be a faff. Tours are well-organised but pricey.
Terceira
You’ll need a car here—no question. Public transport is minimal, though there is an airport bus into Angra. Driving is easy and roads are quiet, except for the occasional cow traffic jam. Finding free parking in town is straightforward.
Verdict: São Miguel wins if you don’t want to drive. Terceira is easier to drive but harder without a car.
Things to Do
São Miguel:
- Hot Springs: Caldeira Velha, Furnas and Termas de Ferraria.
- Scenery: Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo, and endless miradouros.
- Extras: Tea plantation, pineapple farms, whale watching, and food tours.
Terceira:
- Hikes: Several short, scenic trails.
- Town charm: Angra itself is worth a day or two.
- Unique stops: Cheese factory, coffee plantation, sulfur vents, wine museum, natural pools.
Verdict: São Miguel if you want a packed itinerary. Terceira if you prefer a balanced pace with quirky, offbeat finds.
Our view
Choose São Miguel if:
- You want iconic scenery, hot springs, and variety.
- You’re planning a short trip and want ease of access.
- You’d like structured tours without hiring a car.
Choose Terceira if:
- You want fewer tourists and more local charm.
- You’re happy to drive and like exploring at a slower pace.
- You love low-key hikes, charming towns, and value for money.
If you can, I’d honestly recommend visiting both—three days on each makes a great one-week Azores itinerary. But if you’ve only got time for one, it really depends on whether you want more action (São Miguel) or more ambience (Terceira).
Itineraries for both islands
You can find itineraries for both islands below.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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