CHRISTMAS IN THE AZORES: WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU VISIT.
When we decided to spend Christmas in the Azores, we weren’t sure what to expect. A cluster of volcanic islands adrift in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean might not scream “festive spirit” – especially with mild winter temperatures, subtropical greenery, and the odd flamingo-pink sunrise.
But despite the palm trees and 18°C afternoons, Christmas in the Azores turned out to be one of the most magical – and most Christmassy – trips that we’ve had in years.
Is Christmas celebrated in the Azores?
Absolutely. Christmas is very much alive in the Azores, and the islands embrace it with gusto.
From early December, the festive season slowly unrolls with lights, markets, concerts, and yes – Mariah Carey. Everywhere. Even in the smallest villages, we found ourselves walking down quiet cobbled streets only to be met with “All I Want for Christmas Is You” playing on loop from hidden speakers.
It was weirdly wonderful – surreal, even – especially when paired with a backdrop of misty hills and tropical flowers.
Are there Christmas decorations in the Azores?
The Christmas decorations in the Azores are everywhere. And, there seems to be a bit of a competition between the islands. We visited five islands and it seemed like the decorations were getting quirkier with each new town we arrived to.
On São Miguel, Ponta Delgada was the standout for us. Strings of fairy lights draped across the city centre, charming nativity scenes, and a full-blown Christmas market with steaming bowls of soup, spiced drinks, and plenty of merriment. There’s a lovely blend of traditional Portuguese festivity with a dash of small-town creativity.
But if you’re looking for something truly unique, head to Madalena on Pico Island. The decorations there were… a little wild. Think oversized teddy bears, candy canes, flashing lights, and even a casual airplane somehow nestled among the Christmas trees. It was chaotic, colourful, and utterly joyful – like Christmas had been let loose in a toy shop.
Over on Terceira, we were lucky enough to be in Angra do Heroísmo one night when the main square hosted a festive event – part market, part concert. Live music filled the air, locals danced in their scarves and jackets, and we joined in for a bit of an impromptu boogie.
Are there any festivities you can join in at Christmas in The Azores?
Yes, there are Christmas events you can join in. Particularly in the larger capitals of Angra and Ponta Delgada, which often host Christmas concerts and events in December.
You may need to check the local listings or keep an ear out while you’re there – schedules can be casual and low-key – but we found ourselves stumbling into live music more than once. The joy of Christmas in the Azores is how local it all feels – rather than touristy or overblown. It felt like a privilege to be involved in the events.
Are restaurants open over Christmas in The Azores?
Mostly, yes – with a few caveats. Restaurants do tend to close on Christmas Day itself, and some may shut early on Christmas Eve. But around the holidays, especially in towns like Ponta Delgada or Angra, you’ll still find cafés and restaurants open in the days leading up to and after Christmas. Just book ahead or check opening hours if you’ve got your eye on somewhere special.
Are grocery stores open over Christmas in The Azores?
Be prepared: supermarkets often shut early on Christmas Eve. We learned this the hard way on São Jorge, where we were trying to pull together something vaguely festive for Christmas Day. Picture us dashing around the aisles for ingredients with half the island doing the same – it was every bit as chaotic as a British Tesco on 24th December.
On Christmas Day, most grocery stores are closed, so plan ahead and shop early if you’re self-catering.
Is transport available at Christmas in The Azores?
Public transport in the Azores is, frankly, never great – and it all but disappears on Christmas Day. We actually picked up a hitchhiker on Christmas Day, a German tourist who hadn’t realised there would be no buses and was trying to do a festive hike.
If you’re planning to move between towns or islands, don’t expect buses or ferries on the 25th. That said, we were able to get onto the last ferry from Pico to São Jorge and hire a car on Christmas Eve.
After that, it’s best to hunker down somewhere and enjoy the stillness – or rent a car if you’re travelling in the days around the holiday.
What are the traditional Christmas food and drinks in The Azores?
If you’re lucky enough to spend Christmas with locals or dine at a traditional Azorean restaurant around the holidays, you might encounter:
- Bacalhau com todos – a Christmas Eve staple of codfish, potatoes, cabbage and carrots.
- Rabanadas – Portuguese-style French toast, sweetened with cinnamon and sugar.
- Filhós – fluffy fried doughnuts, often flavoured with orange or lemon zest.
- Arroz doce – sweet rice pudding, typically spiced with cinnamon.
- And plenty of Licor de Maracujá (passionfruit liqueur) or a glass of Ginja to wash it all down.
On Christmas Day, our lovely Airbnb hosts dropped off a plate of lovely biscuits, pastries and fruit – a tradition for the day. And so “Azorean” that they thought to bring us something.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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