21 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE WALKING THE CORFU TRAIL.
When you first hear about the Corfu Trail, it sounds like a dream: a long walk across a Greek island, beaches at your feet, mountains above your head, and olive groves as far as the eye can see. And it is dreamy — but it’s also sweaty, sometimes confusing, occasionally frustrating, and all the better for it.
If you’re planning to walk it, here’s what we learned along the way.
1/ The beauty of the island will take your breath away
I’m not one for over-the-top praise, but the scenery genuinely stunned me.
At one point, I actually cried when turning a corner and seeing a panorama that seemed to stretch forever. We reached Corfu’s highest point, surrounded by national park land, we stood in the middle of the island with views stretching east and west, we had moments where we felt entirely enveloped by blue sea and sky.
Day after day, I found myself mesmerized by beautiful details, like a a pop of pink flowers against a wall, or even a pretty front door.
2/ And so will the heat
The Corfu heat is not to be messed with. We walked in September and experienced days where the temperature peaked above 30 centigrade, and felt like 40.
It’s best to avoid walking in the summer completely. But even in cooler months, I’d recommend waking up early and starting to walk with sunrise. You’ll want to be finished with your feet up by the middle of the day when temperatures rise.
3/ The trail is well marked and you can walk in either direction
The trail is actually fairly well marked and this surprised us a little, as our research prior to the walk suggested it wouldn’t be.
Along the way, there are either small yellow signs with “CT” (Corfu Trail) and North/South arrows. Or, there are small yellow markers to indicate the way. Sometimes these are a little hidden, perhaps a rock might be painted yellow, or there’s a small arrow on a tree. But, they were there.
We walked South to North, but I understand the markers allow you to walk either direction.
4/ But it’s helpful to have a GPS app
That said, the marking wasn’t perfect. And oftentimes, we did resort to checking our GPS app (All Trails).
This isn’t a trail where you can totally switch off and follow signage, you will be required to do some navigation.
5/ If you wanted to, you could swim every day
One of the joys of the Corfu Trail is how often you pass a beach or a cove. Sometimes it’s a bustling resort, other times you’ll stumble across a near-empty stretch of sand. Pack a quick-dry towel in your day bag — there’s nothing quite like stripping off your sweaty walking clothes and diving in.
6/ Hotels on route are plentiful
This isn’t a wilderness trek. You’ll find little guesthouses, family-run hotels, and even a few swish resorts scattered along the way.
One of the great things about the trail is that there are plenty of different options for accommodation to suit all budgets. Our cheapest room was €30 and our most expensive €80. But, if you wanted to, you could push the boat out.
7/ But it’s best to book ahead
That said, accommodation can be limited in small villages, especially in peak season. And, the beach resorts (even those with plenty of accommodation) can get busy. If you don’t want to have your pick of accommodation and stick to overnighting on the route (rather than taking transfers or buses elsewhere), it’s best to book ahead.
You can find our detailed guide to accommodation on the trail here.
8/ You may meet other people on the trail
Depending on the time of year you walk, you are likely to meet other walkers. April, May, September and October are the most popular months.
That said, even though we walked in September, I must admit, we didn’t really expect to see many others – I thought perhaps a few day hikers.
Yet, over our very first coffee in Kavos, we had chatted to a Dutch hiker who planned to complete the trail in the same direction as us and the same timeframe. By day two, we had met three more couples and by day five, yet more.
Because the trail is not nearly as busy as the Camino de Santiago, or similar hikes, it felt that there was a nice sense of camaraderie, and we had the chance to chat to others every day.
9/ But it’s quiet enough to find solitude
All that said, there are long quiet stretches in solitude. We would bump into other hikers at rest stops, or in the evening over supper, but rarely on the trail. Most of the time we had the route to ourselves, just the crunch of gravel and often the sound of the ocean.
10/ You’ll visit quaint villages
The Corfu Trail passes through loads of lovely villages.
The kind with shady squares, a scattering of old men playing cards, and a taverna or two where you can rest your feet and watch the world go by. Almost every village we passed through was charming, a lovely spot for a coffee, a cold drink, or a bit of people-watching.
As a bit of a beach bum, I planned our itinerary to stick close to the coast as much as possible. Looking back, that was a bit of a mistake. If I were planning the trip again, I’d make sure to spend at least a couple of nights in mountain villages — they offer a completely different pace, a slice of authentic Corfu life, and some seriously spectacular views.
11/ And beach resorts
It’s not all untouched tradition. Some sections drop you straight into resorts packed with sunloungers and beach bars. Take it for what it is — a chance for a cold Mythos and a swim. Apart from Kavos, we didn’t find anywhere on the route that we wouldn’t happily visit again. The truth is, it’s hard for even the brashest tourist bumph to ruin the beauty of Corfu.
12/ Expect friendly locals
Corfiots are used to tourists, but walkers are perhaps a rarer breed. You’ll find genuine friendliness in the villages. We found that locals were very aware of the Corfu Trail and often intrigued to find out about our experience walking it. And we loved telling them just how beautiful their island is.
13/ There are mosquitos
Let’s not sugar-coat it. They’re hungry and persistent. Bring strong repellent, cover up in the evenings and when walking through woodland areas, and accept that you’ll get a few bites along the way.
We walked in September and also found wasps to be quite present and it felt a bit hectic at times. Apparently wasps tend to be behave a little more aggressively towards the end of summer, so perhaps this explains our experience. But it’s something to be mindful of.
14/ You can book tours with luggage transfer
If the idea of hauling your backpack in the heat doesn’t appeal, you can arrange of luggage transport along the way. As far as I am aware, you can only use this service if you book it as part of a self-guided tour.
15/ Or go it alone
If you’re after independence, it’s perfectly doable to carry everything and take care of the planning yourself. It adds a layer of challenge, but also a certain freedom.
16/ You can take it at your own pace
We walked the route in ten days, but the trail is incredibly flexible thanks to the variety of places to stay along the way. You can power through it in a hurry, or stretch it out at your own pace. Honestly, I’d happily walk it over two, or even three weeks, taking things slowly, lingering in villages, and sneaking in plenty of rest days on the beach.
17/ You don’t have to stick to the trail religiously
Finally, don’t feel like you have to follow the trail to the letter. There are plenty of short cuts, beaches you might want to skip, and opportunities to hop on public transport. If you need a taxi, take it — no one’s keeping score.
Sure, there’s a certain satisfaction in completing the whole trail, but if you’d rather explore just a section of the island on foot, that works too. The trail is flexible enough to suit whichever pace or style you prefer.
We’ve written more about this in our daily stages guide.
18/ You can’t drink the tap water
I know it’s obvious, but it bears repeating: Corfu tap water is not for drinking. Bottled water is cheap and available everywhere along the trail. Every evening for us would end with the “six bottle challenge,” where John would be forced to carry six large bottles of water back to our apartment.
Unfortunately, this does mean using a lot of plastic.
19/ There are times when the trail is tough going
Don’t let the coastal postcards fool you. Some sections are steep, rocky, and exhausting, especially after a few days on the go. There are a few tricky paths, where careful footing is required. And the norther section passes through mountains – so expect significant elevation.
20/ You will probably see at least one snake
Yes, snakes. We spotted a few along the trail, harmless but startling if you’re not expecting them. They tend to slither off quickly, but it’s worth keeping an eye out on the rocks, especially on hot, sunny days. Just another reminder that this is a living, wild island — beautiful, but not entirely domesticated.
21/ There is little that Ouzo can’t fix
By the end of the day, tired, sunburned, and dusty, a glass of ouzo (or two) will make everything feel better. Whether it’s a reward for finishing a tricky climb, cooling off after a long hot walk, or just a treat in a village taverna, Ouzo is the perfect companion to the Corfu Trail. And yes, it counts as part of your hydration strategy… almost.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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