LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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HOW TO VISIT GALLEON BEACH AND HIKE TO SHIRLEY HEIGHTS.

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We found ourselves in Antigua with two days to spare and absolutely no plan. After a bit of research, we decided to dedicate one of those days to the English Harbour area, and it turned out to be the perfect mix of history, adventure, and beach time.

After taking the public bus along the famously bumpy roads from the cruise port in St. John’s, our first stop was Nelson’s Dockyard. From there, we decided it was time to slow things down a little and hopped on a water taxi across the bay. An experience in itself, as you’ll soon discover.

Before setting out, we weren’t convinced it was realistic to combine Nelson’s Dockyard, Galleon Beach, and Shirley Heights all in one day. But not only is it possible, it’s actually a brilliant way to experience this part of the island.

This is a great plan if you want more than just another beach stop and you’ve got the time (and energy) for a full-day adventure.

Getting to Galleon Beach from Nelson’s Dockyard

The most enjoyable and memorable way to reach Galleon Beach is by water taxi from Nelson’s Dockyard. The ride itself only takes a few minutes, but it’s… let’s call it an experience.

There’s one man who runs the water taxi and has done so for many years. You’ll quickly learn that he has very specific instructions: remove your shoes, place all personal items at the front of the boat, and essentially prepare to jump off when you reach the beach. There is no docking involved – just a brief pause while everyone leaps into the water. This is usually accompanied by him shouting at at least one passenger for doing it “wrong”.

And that’s just the outward journey.

For the return, you’ll need to wave him in from the beach, wade into the water, grab hold of the boat, and somehow climb aboard. Suffice to say, unless you have a decent sense of humour, the whole thing can feel mildly stressful.

There’s no timetable, the boat leaves when it’s full. And you can expect to pay around $5 per person, each way.

If this sounds like your personal nightmare, it’s also possible to reach Galleon Beach by road via taxi. In theory, you could walk from Nelson’s Dockyard in about 30 minutes, but this is probably best avoided in the heat.

What Galleon Beach is like

Galleon Beach is one of the quieter beaches in the English Harbour area and feels noticeably calm and chilled, especially compared to beaches like Dickenson Bay. The water here is usually clear and gently shelving, making it excellent for swimming and particularly good for snorkelling.

On the beach is Loose Cannon Beach Bar, a super friendly place with a slightly fancy vibe and a few tables on the sand. We paused here for a bite and a bucket of beers (naturally.)

There are a few sun loungers, but it’s not one of those beaches that is piled high with them. There are lots of spots where you can just drop a towel and relax, shaded by trees too.

Hiking from Galleon Beach to Shirley Heights

The walk up to Shirley Heights from Galleon Beach is short but steady. At the bottom of the trail, signposts claim it’s 0.5 miles to the top, while signage at the top confidently states it’s 1 mile back down.

After tracking it on a walking app, I’d say the distance is realistically around 1 mile (1.5km) each way. Given that it’s an out-and-back hike, it is, unsurprisingly, the same distance in both directions.

The path climbs uphill through scrub and open ground, and while it doesn’t take long. Usually around twenty to thirty minutes, the heat can make it feel more demanding than the distance suggests. That said, we found plenty of shade along the way that kept us (mostly) out of direct sunlight.

To my shame, I will admit that I completed this hike in Birkenstock sandals. I would honestly not really recommend this, there are a few rocky sections which could get pretty slippery if you’ve had any recent rain.

The trail begins here, off a road just behind the beach. It’s easy to find and very tricky to get lost – simply follow the path until you reach the top.

Arriving to Shirley Heights

Arriving at Shirley Heights genuinely feels like a reward. From the lookout, you can see English Harbour spread out below, with Nelson’s Dockyard clearly visible and Falmouth Harbour stretching out on the other side.

It’s a popular photo spot, so expect a small queue for pictures. I’ve heard hummingbirds are often spotted here, we didn’t see any on our visit, but we did meet a few very friendly Shirley Heights cats.

Sunday is party night here, with live music and barbecues, but if you visit during the day or on another weekday, the atmosphere is much calmer. We skipped the party this time and instead enjoyed a rum punch from the restaurant at the top, Shirley Heights Lookout, which felt like the perfect way to take it all in.

Making the most of the experience

We recommend doing the hike first – ideally earlier in the day before it gets too hot. But not so early that you can’t enjoy a rum punch when you get to the top!

We enjoyed doing the hike then cooling off on the beach with some drinks and a bite to eat.

Tip: Pack mosquito repellent, we found them to be quite persistent in this area.

You can find our guide to visiting Nelson’s Dockyard and English Harbour here.

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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