LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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WHY MARRAKECH WON ME OVER (AND WHY IT’S WORTH VISITING).

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Is it because the sun is shining, or that I am sat on a rooftop with my notebook and a pen, a polished concrete floor underneath my feet and a reassuringly expensive coffee – but I realise on my first day in Marrakech that I really rather like this place.

At several points during our 17-day trip in Morocco, John and I have looked at each other and quietly whispered, “I really hate it here.” In other cities, we’ve arrived and collectively decided that while we might not hate it, we sort of… dislike it. In places like Fez, our feelings were more neutral. Neither like nor dislike, just slightly on edge. Certainly not warm and fuzzy though.

Now, finally having arrived in Marrakech, the city we were (ironically) least looking forward to, we realise that actually, we really do quite like it here.

The downsides (because there are some)

Let’s start with the negatives, because Marrakech isn’t perfect.

It’s expensive. Probably twice the price of anywhere else we’ve visited so far. Our accommodation jumped from around £30 a night to closer to £80. Espresso went from 15 MAD to 25, even 35 in the more “aesthetic” cafés. Even mint tea – a Moroccan staple – somehow triples in price.

I actually overheard a group of Spanish tourists pointing to a menu at a restaurant and telling the waiter that it was “way more expensive than Spain.” And they would be right. Main courses are anywhere from 150 MAD to 250 MAD (€15-25). Or even more at high-end restaurants. We paid 120 MAD (around €12) for a boogie brunch plate one morning. It’s worth remembering that Marrakech is a capital city, and so prices do always tend to be higher.

That’s not to say that there aren’t inexpensive places or bargains to be had – for example, we did a lovely street food tour for only £25 (unheard of in Europe.) And we could find breakfast for 50 cents if we wanted to.

And whilst the nightlife in Marrakech is fun, you can expect to pay above most European prices for alcohol. So, if a relaxing and inexpensive glass of wine is an important part of your trip – Marrakech probably isn’t’ for you (but Essaouria might be!)

There are also a hell of a lot of tourists in Marrakech. It’s busy. And with that, you need to be a bit more strategic:

• plan visits around peak times,
• avoid the most obvious restaurants,
• accept that you won’t have many places “to yourself”.

If you’re chasing untouched, off-the-beaten-path Morocco, Marrakech probably isn’t it. You’re unlikely to go home with anything truly unique from the souks, and at times it can feel like tourists are all doing variations of the same thing. We even had one particularly keen traveller lean over our table while we were eating lunch to take a photo of the view – our view. It was, honestly, quite weird.

But here’s the thing: the tourists make it easier

What surprised us most is that the very thing people complain about – the tourism – is actually what makes Marrakech more enjoyable.

In Fez, and other smaller towns we visited, we felt constantly visible. Interesting. A novelty. Potentially a target. Without wishing to sound dramatic, because we did meet lots of wonderful people in Morocco and yes, I know not everyone is trying to scam you, a walk through the medina often felt like running a gauntlet of:

• intense eye contact (particularly as a woman),
• persistent “guides”,
• subtle (and not-so-subtle) pressure.

In Marrakech, we’re just two people in a sea of travellers. Less special. Less interesting. And honestly, that’s a relief.

One restaurant tout in Marrakech even told us we weren’t “welcome” after we politely declined lunch at 11:30am. In Fez, that same person would have kept at it, layering on charm and guilt. Here, we’re not worth the effort.

And that lack of pressure changes everything. It actually allows you to slow down and take in your surroundings. You can browse colourful sandals in the souk without fear that you’ll be held to buying them. Or glance at a restaurant menu in peace.

Even the would-be scammers were fairly laissez-faire. A few people in Marrakech tried to tell us the “road was closed” (a typical scam), but it was with such lacklustre effort that they clearly knew another, more willing stooge would come along if we ignored them.

Safety, scooters, and the medina at night

Yes, Marrakech is chaotic. Scooters and tuk-tuks and random vehicles tear through the souks like it’s a video game. It feels like a full-time job just avoiding being run over.

But strangely, that chaos comes with a sense of safety.

In Fez, the medina is vast, quiet in places, and genuinely unsettling at night. You’re hyper-aware that if something happened, nobody would see it. You feel watched, but alone at the same time.

In Marrakech, the streets are alive. Loud. Busy. Lit up. Even at night, there’s a constant hum of people, stalls, food, noise. You’re anonymous – and that anonymity feels protective.

It can also mean that it’s super sociable if you want it to be. If I were visiting Morocco alone and wanted to meet people, Marrakech would be a good option. Join a yoga class, a cooking course or a food tour and chat away.

I should caveat this by saying that we visited Marrakech as a couple. One afternoon, I went out on my own and, as a woman, experienced more hassle from men in five minutes than I’d had with my partner in two weeks. It was a pretty stark reminder that my experience of the city was shaped by who I was travelling with. I’m not writing this from a solo female traveller perspective.

So… is Marrakech worth visiting?

For us, absolutely. More than worth it.

It’s:

• easier than other Moroccan cities,
• more comfortable for first-time visitors,
• full of fabulous coffee shops, rooftops and restaurants,
• gorgeous riads that will feel like nowhere you’ve ever stayed before,
• a whiff of romance in the air,
• there’s loads to do – museums, palaces and stunning gardens,
• if you need a break from the old town, you can visit Gueliz (a modern area),
• less emotionally draining,
• and still full of colour, culture and atmosphere.

Yes, it’s more expensive. Yes, it’s more touristy. But it’s also the only place in Morocco where we truly felt able to relax.

I have often thought that you have to eat bad meals to appreciate the good. Visit places you dislike (or hate) to find the ones you like. And after 17 days on the road in Morocco, we finally understand just how good Marrakech is.

Not because it’s perfect – but because it’s a city that let us relax and enjoy Morocco.

Looking for more info on Marrakech?

• Where to stay in Marrakech
• 15 best things to do in Marrakech

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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