LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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FEZ CITY GUIDE: WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO EAT & DRINK + TOP TIPS.

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I first visited Fez nearly 20 years ago, a fact which I am sure ages me. It was my first experience of Morocco, my first experience of North Africa and, actually, come to think of it, my first ever backpacking trip. We were three young girls excitedly exploring a whole new world.

We spent around four days there and all I can remember is walking non-stop, just taking it all in. I was amazed by the souks, I was wowed by the communal bread oven and the call to prayer seemed magical.

What I definitely do not remember is feeling claustrophobic in the souk, being hassled at all, even as three young girls, or seeing many other tourists.

In fact, I had such a good memory of Morocco that I have always defended it when others have returned from Marrakech and said they hated it. “Ah, you should have gone to Fez,” was always my response.

Suffice to say, I was a Fez defender.

In this blog post, you will find out about my impressions of visiting Fez 20 years on, what has changed, what you can expect, and whether it is still worth visiting. You can also find a guide below to the best things to do in the city.

Is Fez worth visiting?

Here’s the thing. Having visited Morocco so many years ago and then returning recently, I have developed a bit of a theory. It feels to me like Moroccan cities go through different phases when it comes to tourism.

Ten years ago, Marrakech had a pretty bad reputation. Too much hassle, too many scams, monkeys on chains, that sort of thing. Today, Marrakech feels modern, thriving, full of beautiful hotels, fancy restaurants, and Instagram influencers.

When I first visited Fez 20 years ago, tourism felt much lighter. Visitors were still relatively rare and I remember feeling genuinely welcomed, like I was a guest in the city rather than part of an industry. I had a similar feeling this time around when I visited Meknes, which sees far fewer tourists than the bigger cities.

In 2026, my experience felt different. In some areas of Fez, I became much more aware of being a tourist, and at times felt watched or approached in ways that made me slightly uncomfortable. Not necessarily unsafe, but more on edge than I remembered being.

Of course, this happens in cities all over the world, especially those with large historic centres and high levels of tourism. What makes it feel more intense in Fez is the setting itself. The medina is a maze of around 9000 alleyways (yes you read that right), many of them narrow, covered, and dimly lit. When you feel lost or unsure of your surroundings, it can amplify any sense of unease, even if nothing actually happens.

My feeling is that Fez is currently in a transitional phase. Tourism is increasing, but the infrastructure and visitor culture have not quite caught up yet. In time, I suspect it will find a better balance, much like Marrakech has.

We visited in winter, when it is dark from around 19:00. Despite being quite confident travellers, we were not particularly comfortable being out beyond around 20:30 in the medina. It would probably feel different in summer, or if you were travelling in a larger group. But in general, the advice is not to wander the medina late at night.

So is Fez worth visiting? Yes, absolutely. But it is a city that requires confidence, patience, and realistic expectations from travellers.

It is a beautiful city. It is quirky, and in many ways more intense and more raw and unpolished than Marrakech. There are some fantastic attractions and a few great restaurants popping up around the medina. But in all honesty, it will not suit everyone.

How many days to spend in Fez

You could get a taste of Fez in two days, or a more thorough feel in three. There are also some excellent and well priced day trips, which give you a chance to step outside the city for a change of pace. If you plan to include a day trip, I would recommend three to four days in total. Beyond that, most travellers will probably feel they have seen the main highlights.

Attractions & things to do

Fez is not a city of big headline attractions in the way that somewhere like Rome, or even Marrakech, is. The main experience is simply being there, slowing down and soaking it all in like a sponge. That said, there are a handful of places that are genuinely worth adding to your itinerary.

MEDINA WALKING TOUR

If it’s your first time in Fez, I would strongly recommend starting with a guided walking tour.

The medina is vast and complex, and having a local guide helps you understand what you are actually looking at rather than just wandering through a blur of souks.

Joining a walking tour will also give you a bit of confidence moving around, especially if you’re travelling solo.

We took a walking tour starting at 10:00 which lasted around 4 hours. Our tour took in the tannery (below) as well as a few other sights.

TANNERY

This is one of Fez’s most famous sights and, yes, it is very much a tourist experience. You will be led through a leather shop to a rooftop terrace overlooking the huge vats of dye. And then very much encouraged to browse the leather goods afterwards.

Tip: it really does smell quite appalling, even from a distance. Whoever shows you up to the viewing point will offer you mint, take it!

CITY GATES

Fez is surrounded by impressive city walls and gates, the most famous being Bab Boujloud.

Bab Boujloud is often called the Blue Gate and is one of the main entrances into the medina. It’s a good starting point for exploring and a popular photo spot.

It’s also a useful landmark if you’re meeting a guide or arranging a taxi pickup.

CHERRATINE MEDERSA

Cherratine Medersa is a quieter and lesser-known alternative to the more famous Bou Inania Medersa. It was once a Quranic school and is worth visiting for its peaceful courtyard.

DAR BATHA MUSEUM

Our top pick. This museum really surprised us and we ended up spending nearly two hours here.

It is housed in a former palace and showcases traditional Moroccan crafts including tiles, ceramics, woodwork, embroidery, and textiles. The garden courtyard is also a lovely, calm place to take a break from the intensity of the medina.

COOKING & CULTURE

There are a number of different workshops dotted around Fez- from arts and crafts to cooking classes.

Cafe Clock hosts a range of interesting things like Ouod Lessons (a musical instrument), Calligraphy Classes and even Moroccan cultural classes.

At the Anou Cooperative, you can do a rug weaving workshop – taking home your creations.

Then there are various leftfield workshops, like this Basket Customization Workshop. As well as classic cooking courses.

WELLNESS EXPERIENCES

If you need a break from sightseeing, Fez has plenty of hammams, spas, and massage centres, both traditional and modern. You can book experiences online, like this hammam and massage combo.

I was on the lookout for a yoga class in Fez when I visited – I couldn’t find anything suitable, so do let us know if you manage to find one.

WANDER OUTSIDE THE MEDINA

You don’t have to wander too far out of the medina gates to see a different side of Fez. Even just a little way out you start to see wider roads, more patisseries and a little more of normal local life.

If you really want to see something different, take a taxi to the newer areas of the city Ville Nouvelle. But keep in mind that there’s not a huge amount for tourists to see here.

DAY TRIPS

Fez is a great base for exploring with day trip tours. These are easy to organise online and inexpensive too.

Popular options include:

• Meknes, another imperial city with far fewer tourists;
• Chefchaouen, the blue city in the Rif mountains;
• Volubilis, impressive Roman ruins near Meknes (you can usually combine this into one day trip with Meknes).

Shopping in Fez

Even if shopping is not high on your list, it is almost impossible to avoid in Fes El Bali.

I would go so far as to say that if you travel to Morocco, it is a rite of passage to come home with a souvenir that feels exotic when you buy it and looks slightly ridiculous once you get home. And to pay handsomely for it.

SOUKS

Fez’s souks are loosely organised by trade.

You’ll pass through fondouks, which are traditional caravanserais where traders once stayed and stored goods. Some are still working spaces, others now house shops and workshops.

Different areas specialise in different crafts, from women’s clothing and fabrics to leather, brass, woodwork, and ceramics.

A few areas to look out for:

• Place Seffarine, known for metalwork and the sound of constant hammering;
• The leather souks around the tanneries;
• The woodworkers’ areas deeper in the medina.

Two useful streets for navigation are Rue Talaa Kebira and Rue Talaa Sghira, which run roughly parallel through the medina. We found slightly nicer products on Rue Talaa Kebira.

On Rue Talaa Sghira, look out for Colour Street, a small but photogenic stretch filled with colourful art.

Tip: Google Maps does actually work in the medina for showing your location. You might not always get directions, but at least you can see where you are and roughly which direction you’re heading.

NOTABLE STORES

If you prefer fixed prices and less hassle, look for cooperatives or concept-style stores. They are more relaxed and often support local artisans directly.

One that we loved was The Anou Cooperative. A female led cooperative, selling crafts. Earrings and small items through to rugs. QR codes on each item state the price and tell you more about the lady who made the item.

Eating & Drinking

Of course, the pleasure in any city break is in eating and drinking.

COFFEE & TEA STOPS

If there’s one thing you’re going to do a lot of in Morocco, its drink tea and coffee.

For tea lovers, Abdullah Thé & Café is a very traditional tea house (and a bit of an institution.) When we visited Abdullah was nowhere to be seen, but you may have better luck. For a more modern experience, we loved Toma.

For coffee, we loved Cafe Clock (a roof terrace or various cosy spaces) and Made in M. The square around Fonduk Saghra is also lovely for more traditional coffee places. But of course, the joy is spotting an unassuming hole in the wall and just trying it.

STREET FOOD

Street food in Fez is brilliant and very affordable.

Look out for:

• Msemen and baghrir pancakes
• The Achabine soup kitchen serving Harira soup
• The Achabine area of the souk for grilled meats and snacks
• Moroccan donuts and pastries

If you are into your street food, consider taking a street food tour. They are a great way to sample unusual foods with confidence and maybe meet fellow travellers. If you’re also planning to visit Marrakech, you may wish to take a food tour there instead (they are a fair bit cheaper.)

DINING OUT

One area where Fez does excel, is in quality and inexpensive restaurants. A few that we enjoyed were:

• Cafe Clock – a good lunch spot (note the map is a little inaccurate, you can find it next The Anou Cooperative.)
• Fondouk Bazaar – quirky mezze menu, so well priced and lovely staff. We came here twice. (If you don’t order the crispy chicken, babaganoush or pistachio cheesecake – you’re missing out).
• Le Tarbouche – fresh food and cosy place.
• The Ruined Garden – pleasant lunch spot with a courtyard garden.
• El Forno – classic Moroccan food, easy ambiance. In this area, Made in M and Al Oud are also well reviewed and popular.

You can find all of these places on the map at the top of this page.

BARS

Many hotels in the newer part of Fez have bar (or restaurants serving alcohol), but standalone bars are limited in the medina.

As far as we could tell, the two main options in the old city are:

• The British Saloon, which is quite an odd place and often empty (and a bottle of beer costs 65MAD or €6.50.)
• Riad Fes – Relais & Châteaux, beautiful roof terrace but very expensive.

If you are happy to skip alcohol, there are lovely evening cafes like Fez and Friends and Cinema Café, ideal for tea, milkshakes, and people watching. We took a board game with us and whiled away a few evenings in cafes. Cafe Clock often has live music of an evening too.

Where to stay

Of all the cities we visited in Morocco, Fez requires the most careful consideration when it comes to where to stay.

You have two main choices: Fes El Bali (the old part of the city), or one of the newer neighbourhoods. And then within Fes El Bali itself, there are several different areas to choose from.

The newer areas offer more modern hotels, often with on-site restaurants and easier access by taxi. The older area mainly offers riads or dars, which are smaller, more traditional properties. Most tourists spend the majority of their time sightseeing in Fes El Bali.

Our top tip if you stay in Fes El Bali is to find a few restaurants you’d like to visit in the evening, then book your riad or hotel somewhere close to that area. This way, you can avoid long walks through the medina at night and make evenings feel more relaxed.

We’ve written a more detailed guide about where to stay in Fez here.

Tips

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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