We recently walked the English Camino, the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton. This short guide will help you to navigate and plan your walk on the Camino Ingles in England.
What is it about the English countryside – why is the beauty so much more than visual? Why does it touch one so?
Dodie Smith
Although this walk is not comparable to a Camino route in Spain, it does have it’s own considerable charms. You will walk through the English counties of Berkshire and Hampshire, along rivers and through woodland. Along the way enjoying some time in pub gardens if the weather is fine, or cosily huddled indoors if is not. The English Camino route is a veritable highlights reel of the two counties and a chance to imagine you are a pilgrim from a far away time.
- Is there a Camino in England?
- What is the St James way?
- Is the Camino Ingles a pilgrimage?
- How long is the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
- How long does it take to walk the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
- How to get to the start of the Camino Ingles in Reading?
- Where does the Camino Ingles finish in Southampton?
- How to navigate the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
- Is the walk from Reading to Southampton easy?
- Daily walking stages of the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
- Where to stay on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
- Can you camp on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
- Where to eat and drink on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
- Can you get a credential for the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
- Where to get a stamp on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
- What to pack to walk the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
- Camino tours from Reading to Southampton
Is there a Camino route in England?
You’ve probably heard of the Camino de Santiago and assumed that the routes are in Spain. Well, you’d be right, mostly. But, there is one route in England. This is the first section of the Camino Ingles (The English Way).
The Camino Ingles is traditionally thought to be a path from the North of Spain into Santiago de Compostela. But, it is called the Camino Ingles because it would have been the way that pilgrims would have travelled to Santiago de Compostela from England.
In late 2022, the Confraternity of St James sign posted the route from Reading to Southampton. Historically it is believed that pilgrims would have travelled from Reading Abbey to Southampton to travel onwards to Spain.
What is the St James way?
The St James way is the section of the Camino Ingles in England. It runs from Reading to Southampton through Berkshire and Hampshire. It is called the St James way, as it is believed that it would have been walked by pilgrims in the past who were journeying to Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St James are to be found.
Reading Abbey would have also been the centre of the St James’ cult in the UK, hence this site had an important role in the context of pilgrimage to Santiago.
Is the Camino Ingles a pilgrimage?
Technically, yes, it is a pilgrimage. The route from Reading takes you from a historic Abbey and via a number of churches/ religious sites, before reaching Southampton. Eventually, the route would connect to the important religious city of Santiago de Compostela (with a ferry ride in between.) But, you don’t have to be religious to walk the Camino – find out more here.
How long is the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
The distance to walk from Reading to Southampton following the Camino Ingles, or the Camino in England route is 66 miles or 106 km.
How long does it take to walk the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
It is possible to walk the Camino Ingles in three days at a push. This is how long spent walking the route. But, in all honesty we would not recommend this if you’re looking for a leisurely break as we had a couple of days of around 38/40km walking. Ideally, four days is a better walking pace that will allow you to enjoy the route and allow you to walk less than 30km each day. You could choose to walk the route over five or six days, but the challenging factor will be finding accommodation (more on that below.)
How to get to the start of the Camino Ingles in Reading?
The Camino Ingles starts in St James Church in the centre of Reading. This is just near to the Abbey ruins and close to the central train station. Note, you cannot access the church from the park, you must go around the park. But the start of the Camino route will take you through the park and into the Abbey once you’ve joined the route at St James Church.
Photo Credit – Open Street Map (https://www.openstreetmap.org/)
You may also wish to pop into the nearby Reading Museum to learn more about the Abbey and to collect a credential for the route. Just note that the museum doesn’t tend to open until 10:00.
Where does the Camino Ingles finish in Southampton?
The Camino Ingles route finishes in Southampton at the central train station, but it visits the Southampton port first. You can get direct trains into London Waterloo station from Southampton.
Of course, if you want to continue to Santiago de Compostela, that is where the Camino Ingles really ends. Ferries no longer run from Southampton to Spain, but you can take a ferry from Portsmouth to Galicia to continue your journey should you wish to.
How to navigate the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton: Walking the Camino route in England
Navigation on the route from Reading to Southampton is quite simple as the route is now very well sign posted. You can follow the Camino arrow and scallop shell symbols all the way from Reading to Southampton relatively easily.
Although it is signposted well, there are a few signs that are a little hidden or not quite clear as to the direction they are pointing. If in doubt, double check that you are heading South!
We lost our way a few times, but were aided with navigation from the British Pilgrimage site, which has a handy GPS tool.
Is the walk from Reading to Southampton easy?
Compared to other long distance hikes, yes, we do think that the route is fairly easy. There are no significant hills and the route remains fairly flat and easy under foot.
The two main challenges are the weather (and subsequent mud) and stingy nettles. There are a few areas of the path that easily become boggy if it has been raining. However, generally the worst of these can be avoided with some creative re-routing. As for stingy nettles, it is difficult to avoid this as some sections of the path are overgrown. We recommend wearing trousers or long socks if you can.
Daily walking stages of the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
You can walk the route in three days at a push, or four at a more leisurely pace. Here are our suggested daily walking stages for each.
Three daily stages from Reading to Southampton : Camino route in England
Day One: Reading to Basingstoke
Distance: 36 km approx
Route:
The route starts at the church before taking a short tour through the park and then to the abbey. You will then follow the path through the Oracle centre, before walking along the river in a westerly direction. You will pass The Cunning Man Pub, the first opportunity for a drink in a pub garden, and eventually come out onto a road away from the River Kennet. Here you can find the Fox & Hounds Pub, which offers your second opportunity for refreshment on the walk.
After some brief walking on the path, you will reach footpaths through fields with a number of stiles and gates. Woodland pathways await, but do note that these can get quite muddy under food. Look out for the Roman amphitheatre as you travel through Silchester. You will also pass a few delightful churches. The Queens College Arms is a great pub and worth a stop before nearing Basingstoke.
Accommodation:
Basingstoke has a number of hotel options to suit most budgets. The cheapest in the area is The Red Lion Hotel. However, do note that the route does not actually go into central Basingstoke, instead it skirts the west side of the town. You may therefore prefer to stay to the west or in a nearby village. We stayed in Oakley at The Beach Arms, which was an easy busy ride from the Camino route and back again.
Day Two: Basingstoke to Winchester
Distance: 40 km approx
Route:
The route heads out of the Basingstoke area along an historic Roman road. You’ll walk through fields and some footpaths as well as some woodland near to Basingstoke Golf Course. We didn’t find anywhere for food until around 15km in at Preston Candover. In this village, there is the fabulous Purefoy Arms which serves super gastro-pub food. There is also a small shop to pick up supplies. There is a pub in the quaint hamlet of Dummer, just before Preston Candover, but it does not open until the evening Monday to Friday.
After Preston Candover, you’ll take a few more footpaths through fields before arriving at the cute village of Upper Wield complete with some fabulous properties. Eventually you will reach the town of New Arlseford, which has a range of shops and stops for refreshment. After this, you will take a few footpaths nearing the river, before reaching Winchester. To note, we also encountered a number of fields with cows, including some with calves.
Accommodation:
Winchester has some great accommodation options. We stayed at the Black Hole B&B, which was a novelty prison themed place with an excellent breakfast (approx £95 per night for two.) Another great option is aptly named Two Bare Feet, which is an excellent self-catered B&B (rates of approx £130 per night for two.)
Day Three: Winchester to Southampton
Distance: 34 km approx
Route:
The third day is possibly the easiest to navigate as you mostly follow one route out of Winchester all the way into Southampton. First, leaving the historic city of Winchester you will follow the Keats Way for a short distance. This is a path named after the poet John Keats, who is believed to have walked this way. After some time, the path joins the Itchen way, running alongside the gloriously clear River Itchen and it follows this route all the way to Southampton.
If the weather has been rainy, or it is raining when you walk, you may find that there are some impassable sections of the route. These are likely to be sign posted with a warning of deep mud and there are ways to re-route easily using the road or short nearby footpath sections.
Tip – if you are walking in summer, or you are very brave, there are lots of wild swimming spots in this area. You may wish to pack your swimming costume.
Accommodation:
In Southampton, there are a few options. Both The Moxy Hotel and The Holiday Inn are reasonably priced hotels in the centre of the city. If you want a little bit of luxury at the end of your walk, you could try the Pig In The Wall Hotel, which has excellent reviews.
Four daily stages from Reading to Southampton : Camino route in England
Day One: Reading to Tadley/ Mortimer Common
Distance: Approx 24 km
Accommodation:
Accommodation on the route in this area is a little tricky. But there are a few choices. The grand De Vere Hotel is 2 miles from Mortimer, slightly off route but public transport or taxis would be available to stay here, or you could walk the extra route. In Tadley, there are two hotels to choose from. The first is the George & Dragon and the second is Apple Tree Place B&B. These are not on the Camino route directly, but only a couple of miles away.
Day Two: Tadley/ Mortimer Common to Preston Candover
Distance: Approx 24km
Accommodation:
Preston Candover does not have any hotels, although there’s an excellent pub (The Purefoy Arms) that makes a great place for lunch or dinner. The only accommodation available in this area is an Airbnb, here in Preston Candover. A little further in Upper Wield, is this Airbnb loft apartment (nice pub within walking distance too.)
Day Three: Preston Candover to Winchester
Distance: Approx 24 km
Accommodation:
Winchester has some great accommodation options. We stayed at the Black Hole B&B, which was a novelty prison themed place with an excellent breakfast (approx £95 per night for two.) Another great option is aptly named Two Bare Feet, which is an excellent self-catered B&B (rates of approx £130 per night for two.)
Day Four: Winchester to Southampton
Distance: Approx 34km
Accommodation:
In Southampton, there are a few options. Both The Moxy Hotel and The Holiday Inn are reasonably priced hotels in the centre of the city. If you want a little bit of luxury at the end of your walk, you could try the Pig In The Wall Hotel, which has excellent reviews.
Where to stay on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
Camino route in England: Reading
In Reading, we would recommend staying near to the central train station. This means you are very close to the start of the Camino route. The central station also has direct trains to London, making it easy to reach this area too.
The Market House and The Mailmaison are both stylish hotels in central locations for under £100. The Ibis Hotel is a central option for under £70.
Camino route in England: Basingstoke and surrounding areas
Before Basingstoke, there are some options. The grand De Vere Hotel is 2 miles from Mortimer, slightly off route but public transport or taxis would be available to stay here, or you could walk the extra route. In Tadley, there are two hotels to choose from. The first is the George & Dragon and the second is Apple Tree Place B&B. These are not on the Camino route directly, but only a couple of miles away.
Basingstoke has a number of hotel options to suit most budgets. The cheapest in the area is The Red Lion Hotel. However, do note that the route does not actually go into central Basingstoke, instead it skirts the west side of the town. You may therefore prefer to stay to the west or in a nearby village. We stayed in Oakley at The Beach Arms, which was an easy busy ride from the Camino route and back again.
Camino route in England:Winchester and surrounding Areas
Winchester has some great accommodation options. We stayed at the Black Hole B&B, which was a novelty prison themed place with an excellent breakfast (approx £95 per night for two.) Another great option is aptly named Two Bare Feet, which is an excellent self-catered B&B (rates of approx £130 per night for two.)
In Arlseford, The Swan Inn is a beautiful hotel, if you want somewhere away from the city.
Camino route in England: Southampton
In Southampton, there are a few options. Both The Moxy Hotel and The Holiday Inn are reasonably priced hotels in the centre of the city. If you want a little bit of luxury at the end of your walk, you could try the Pig In The Wall Hotel, which has excellent reviews.
Can you camp on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
In England wild camping is not legal. There is also no legal right to bivouac. Therefore, technically wild camping is not allowed on the route. However, we are aware that people do wild camp in England and to not tend to experience any trouble provided that they abide by the usual no trace rules and stick to dusk to dawn principles.
Hypothetically, if you were to try wild camp on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton you would find that there are plenty of places that would be suitable to pitch a small tent in privacy.
If you wanted to camp at campsites, this may also be possible but would require some forward planning and some public transport. You can find more information on campsites in Hampshire here and Berkshire here.
Where to eat and drink on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
The great English pub will become your best friend on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton.
There are 13 pubs on route that are easily accessible:
- The Cunning Man, Burghfield
- Fox & Hounds, Sheffield Bottom
- Horse & Groom, Mortimer
- The Queens College Arms, Pamber End
- The Queen Inn, Dummer
- The Purefoy Arms, Preston Candover
- The Horse & Groom, New Arlesford
- The Bush Inn, Ovington
- The Plough, Itchen Abbas
- The King Alfred, Winchester
- The Bridge Inn, Shawford (temporarily closed)
- The Junction Inn, Southampton
- Duke of Wellington, Southampton
Otherwise, you will find some small supermarkets on the route. There are plenty at the start in Reading and in the major towns such as Basingstoke and Winchester. But, many small villages will not have any supermarkets.
Can you get a credential for the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
You can get a credential, a sort of Pilgrim passport, to walk the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton. You don’t have to get one and you don’t have to register, but if you want a souvenir of your adventure it can be worth getting one. There are a number of stamping places along the route (see below.) Many of these pubs will offer you a small discount with your credential too. However, do note that the credential costs £5 (as of 2023) so you’d have to drink a lot of beer to actually save anything.
There are two ways to get a credential. One option is to order it online from the CSJ website – here. The second is in Reading Museum, but as of May 2023 when we walked, the museum did not have any available so we would recommend ordering online to secure yours.
Where to get a stamp on the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton?
You can get a stamp for your credential in a number of places on route:
- St James Church in Reading
- Reading Museum
- Carluccios Restaurant, The Forbury in Reading
- Baobab (a gift shop) in Mortimer
- The Swan Hotel (New Alresford)
- Winchester City Museum
Stamps can also be obtained at any of the 13 pubs on route:
- The Cunning Man, Burghfield
- Fox & Hounds, Sheffield Bottom
- Horse & Groom, Mortimer
- The Queens College Arms, Pamber End
- The Queen Inn, Dummer
- The Purefoy Arms, Preston Candover
- The Horse & Groom, New Arlesford
- The Bush Inn, Ovington
- The Plough, Itchen Abbas
- The King Alfred, Winchester
- The Bridge Inn, Shawford (temporarily closed)
- The Junction Inn, Southampton
- Duke of Wellington, Southampton
These pubs will also offer a discount to walkers holding a credential.
What to pack to walk the Camino Ingles from Reading to Southampton
In all likelihood, you are going to experience a wide range of good old fashioned British weather and we would suggest packing accordingly. You will also need to pack enough clothing to last the required number of walking days, likely between three and six days depending on how quickly you walk.
We would suggest packing the following:
- Walking boots or trail shoes – something robust enough to survive muddy conditions under foot (trainers in the dry summer would suffice)
- A rain coat – consider a poncho too if it is forecast to rain
- Lightweight long sleeve top/ sweater
- Quick dry walking t-shirts
- Walking trousers or leggings (trousers are better as there are number of overgrown paths with stingy nettles)
- Shorts – but wear long socks if you wear shorts to avoid the stingy nettles
- A large water bottle – there are not many places to re-fill on route, except for pubs
Camino tours from Reading to Southampton
If you’d be interested in joining a self-guided tour of the Camino route Reading to Southampton, get in touch with us on lotuseaterstravel@gmail.com.
The tour would include all accommodation and a bespoke walking plan all organised for you. Your adventure awaits!
John and Emma’s hiking gear. These are items we love to use when we go hiking, find them here on Amazon.
Osprey 40L, Multi, O/S
HOKA ONE ONE Mens Speedgoat 4 Textile Synthetic Trainers
HOKA ONE ONE Women’s Clifton 8
CWVLC Unisex Cushioned Compression Athletic Ankle Socks Multipack
Dr. Scholl’s Blister Cushions, Seal & Heal Bandage, 8 Cushions
Montem Ultra Strong Trekking, Walking, and Hiking Poles – One Pair (2 Poles)
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