LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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Serbia in Winter. Why not.

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“What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness.”

John Steinbeck

We were looking for a country that we could call home for the Winter. Preferably one that could keep us warm. We mulled a few options. February in Mexico surrounded by exotic sites and smells. “What about Mexico City?” John asked. “Yes!” I enthused, before looking at flights. “Too far,” I said. We needed to be within a few hours of London for work reasons.

What about hiding out in a Moroccan riad? Drinking tea and listening to the sound of the call to prayer. I pictured myself in a long bohemian dress, languidly positioned on a chaise long atop a roof terrace.

Yet both of us knew what we really wanted. After four months in the Middle East and South East Asia, we missed Europe. Each country in Europe is of course different, but there’s a European “feeling”, that we can recognise.

The call of Europe

When you’re away from Europe, this feeling is even more palpable. It’s the way that streets are built, the boulevards and the squares. It’s the coffee smells, the hum drum of European chatter and the whizz of steam coming out of the giant coffee machines when you walk into a cafe. The shabbiness and unreliability of trains and buses. It’s the draft beer and the “Irish Bar” that nobody local really frequents. And “glug glug glug” of the red wine being poured into an oversized glass by a slightly snobby waiter wearing a crisp white shirt. It’s the fries, the pizza slices, the charcuterie.

We so obviously wanted to be back in Europe. Yet we had a bit of a problem. As British citizens we are limited to 90 days in the Schengen zone of the EU since Brexit. With numerous plans through the summer across Portugal, Italy and Scandinavia we had no free “Schengen” days to play with. We would need to find a home for 6 weeks in the Winter outside of the EU.

Why travel to Serbia?

So to the trusty list of “non-Schengen countries” that I keep scribbled in my notebook. We pondered four capital cities, Tblisi, Belgrade, Bucharest and Sarajevo. “Look, if we are going to be cold, why not be really cold?” I reasoned.

In the end, Belgrade won us over. It was partly the convenience of the flights: return flights to London on low cost airline Wizz air are around £50 with just over 2 hours spent in the air. The cost of the accommodation in Belgrade also attracted us. An airbnb bolthole in the heart of an upmarket embassy district of Belgrade, Vracac for 6 weeks. And at a cost less than the average hotel in Rome for three days.

I found some photos online, noticed cobbled streets in the bohemian Stari Grad (old town). Clocked the River Danube running through the city. I’m particularly fond of being near water, I find it a bit stifling to be far from it, and am therefore always attracted to cities that surround rivers. Serbia started to feel like the perfect solution.

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A few reservations about travelling to Serbia

As our departure got closer, its fair to say that a few reservations surfaced. With media in the UK increasingly reporting about tensions between Serbia and Kosovo (in early 2023), stories of enhanced security at the border some speculation that there was even a chance that the two countries would go to war. Against the backdrop of the situation between Russia and Ukraine, we couldn’t just dismiss such claims out of hand.

Friends even questioned our decision to travel to Serbia. “Aren’t the Serbians pro-Russia?” This is what they’d seen on the news. Long discussions ensued between John and I. Was it ever acceptable to travel to a country that seemed on the surface to harbour political leanings that we could never agree with? We really weren’t sure what the answer was.

In the end, we felt fairly certain that we wouldn’t find a country filled with bad people. We felt fairly sure that we wouldn’t encounter outward demonstrations of hatred for Kosovo. We also felt steadfast in our believe that you have to separate the people from the politics of a country. I’m pleased to say that this all proved to be true.

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A winter’s tale in Belgrade

Smoke filled cafes, dimly lit with the faint sound of jazz in the background are to be found on every corner of every street across the city. Catching the languid waitresses eye through the smoke to order espresso by day and red wine by night. Flicking through novels and newspapers, occasionally completing a cross word and soaking up the din all around us. This is how we spent six weeks in Belgrade. It’s a romantic city, in a stoic and brutalist sort of way.

One day we walked to the water front in Belgrade. A place that throngs in the summer with young Serbians and tourists coming to party on the river. Juxtaposed to the big party boats, that look like vaguely threatening military submarines and smell like Jägermeister, there’s a new build waterfront plaza. Here you find terraced restaurants serving an impeccable standard of food, a well heeled but discrete crowd gathering to hide away from the February weather. The faint sound of metal cutlery clashing and wine corks opening as we walk past. We are tempted to stop, but we prefer the dingy interior of the bars in Vracac and Stari Grad. They seem more authentic and somehow more “Serbian.”

We see fisherman casting out into the Danube, they don’t seem to mind if they catch anything, they’re here for pleasure. Two older gents in fur lined hats and ageing anoraks, chattering away in good company. Making our way to the old fortress, we note the far reaching views from the top of the hill. I can’t help but picture what this would be like in the summer, picnics and wine with a vista. Perhaps the odd music concert and outdoor theatre show.

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What is Serbia in the Winter like?

It’s too cold to walk back to our neighborhood, so we frequently catch the tram. A rickety style vehicle that seems to come in two flavours – red or green. Both smell the same. We take short morning jogs through the park, careful not to remain outside too long in our running gear. Locals “tssk” at us looking perplexed, presumably asking us in Serbian why we are outside in running gear. It’s too tempting not to grab a huge slice of Berek (feta and spinach pie) and a takeaway coffee. So we join the queues of people outside the bakery and then pace back to our apartment before the pastry loses its warmth and our legs turn purple.

There was a night when we found ourselves to be the sole occupants of a brewery in the centre of the bohemian quarter of town. In summer, this place would be packed. We feel obliged to stay in the wooden shack of a building for at least two pints, sitting huddled in the corner in our coats. Another night we are sternly told off for playing cards over a drink in a strange bar-cum-restaurant that looks a little like the inside of the Orient Express. “This is not that sort of place,” an imposing Serbian waiter scolded us. He would have seemed threatening if it weren’t for the very tight waistcoat hugging his 6ft5 frame.

There are a vast number of restaurants in Belgrade. Indeed, it is a sprawling city. We learnt this the hard way on our first night when we alighted the bus from the airport prematurely and ended up with a 5km to walk between us and our new abode. Fashionable bars and eateries seem to be popping up regularly, advertised by the hoards of gorgeous Serbian Instagram influencers. But it seems a little chilly to explore them all.

In the end, we come back to a favourite neighbour haunt, restaurant Lovac, to eat many times. They serve Serbian food, mainly meat, with a bread basket large enough to feed five, to accompany your vodka martini. We like the brusqueness of it. The tradition. The fact that politicians and diplomats have been coming here for years. And that waiters might just turn you down for a table because they don’t like your face. But we mostly like how close it is our to apartment.

As the weather grew slowly but surely warmer, by the end of February we dared to explore further. We journeyed across the river to the the upmarket neighborhood of Zemun, where we were entertained by an orchestra as we ate decadently in an equally self-indulgent restaurant. By day, seeing what the various museums of Belgrade had to offer. Most notably, the Tesla museum, dedicated to Serbia’s home grown hero.

What to do in Serbia in the Winter?

Belgrade is the most obvious place to visit in Serbia and you can find our guide to exploring the capital here, but in winter, it is worth exploring beyond this.

Venture beyond the bustling cityscape to discover the hidden gem of Sremski Karlovci. Nestled in the serene hills of the Fruška Gora National Park, this picturesque town captivates with its Baroque architecture and vineyard-covered landscapes. In winter, the town transforms into a serene retreat, perfect for those seeking a peaceful escape. Sip on local wines, explore historic monasteries, and embrace the tranquility that defines Sremski Karlovci in the colder months.

For a soothing and rejuvenating experience, head to the Thermal Baths in Vrnjačka Banja. Surrounded by snow-covered hills, these thermal springs offer a unique blend of relaxation and natural beauty. Immerse yourself in the warm mineral-rich waters, known for their healing properties, and let the crisp winter air enhance the therapeutic effects. Vrnjačka Banja’s thermal baths provide a perfect sanctuary to unwind and recharge amid the serene winter landscape.

The enchanting landscapes of Kopaonik Mountain beckon winter enthusiasts seeking adventure. This snow-capped paradise offers a playground for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter sports against a backdrop of pristine mountain scenery. Kopaonik is not just for thrill-seekers – the quaint mountain villages and cozy cabins create a cozy ambiance, inviting visitors to savor local delicacies and experience the warmth of Serbian hospitality against the chilly mountain air.

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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