We recently had a huge adventure and walked the Norwegian Camino from Oslo to Trondheim. The walk from Oslo to Trondheim is chockablock with epic scenery, wonderful accommodation and all highlights of Norway that you can imagine. This guide provides an overview of the route, including daily stages and can be read alongside our other St Olav’s Way content.
- What is the walk from Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways?
- Where does the walk from Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways start?
- Where does the walk from Oslo to Trondheim end?
- Should you choose the western or eastern route of Gudbrandsdalsleden on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim?
- What is the pilgrim’s boat on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim?
- Walking stages Oslo to Trondheim
- Daily walking stages from Oslo to Trondheim
- Day One: Oslo to Aaraas Farm Pilgrim Hostel 20km
- Day Two: Aaraas Farm Pilgrim Hostel to Arteid Vestre 18km
- Day Three: Arteid Vestre to Risebru Pilegrim Hostel 32km
- Day Four: Risebru Pilegrim Hostel to Solvang Hostel 22km
- Day Six: Solvang Hostel to Millom Pilgrim Hostel 26km
- Day Seven: Millom Pilgrim Hostel to Herkestad farm 26km
- Day Eight: Herkestad Farm to Koss Farm 34km
- Day Nine: Koss Farm to Brøttum Camping 30km
- Day Ten: Brøttum Camping to Pilegrimsbu Øyer Cabin 27km
- Day Eleven: Pilegrimsbu Øyer Cabin to Mageli Campsite 29km
- Day Twelve: Mageli Campsite to Heimtun Campsite 30km
- Day Thirteen: Heimtun Campsite to Kirketeigen Youth Center and Camping 31.5km
- Day Fourteen: Kirketeigen Youth Center to Otta 23km
- Day Fifteen: Otta to Dovre 32km
- Day Sixteen: Dovre to Fokstugu 18km
- Day Seventeen: Fokstugu to Hageseter Tourist Cabin 21km
- Day Eighteen: Hageseter to Ryphusam 36km
- Day Nineteen: Rhyphusam to IMI IMI Stølen 30km
- Day Twenty: IMI Stølen to Meslo Alberge 38km
- Day Twenty One: Meslo Alberge to Meldal 27km
- Day Twenty Two: Meldal to Svorkmo skytterhus 18km
- Day Twenty Three: Svorkmo skytterhus to Øysand Camping 34km
- Day Twenty Four: Oysand to Trondheim 25km
- Where will I stay on the route?
- How much does it cost to walk from Norway to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways?
- How should I prepare to walk from Oslo to Trondheim? A
What is the walk from Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways?
The walk is a 643km (400miles) long-distance hike which is one of the pilgrimage routes that make up St Olav’s Ways. More on that here. The specific route from Oslo to Trondheim is called “Gudbrandsdalsleden”, because it goes through the Gudbrand Valley or Gudbrandsdalsleden as it is referred to in Norwegian.
For the purpose of this article, we refer to “St Olav’s Ways”, because it’s easier for English speakers to read (and for us to write!) On the route, you’ll find that most people call it “St Olavs Way” or just the “pilgrims way,” rather than Gudbrandsdalsleden.
Where does the walk from Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways start?
The Gudbrandsdalsleden route starts in Oslo. The exact location can be found on GoogleMaps here. It is in a Memorial Park which, fittingly, contains St Olav’s Monastery and St Hallvard’s Cathedral. This is also very close to the Oslo Pilgrim Centre (summer location) and reasonably near to the Central Station in Oslo.
Very quickly after visiting the Memorial Park and monuments, you will need to consider whether you intend to walk the Eastern or Western route of St Olav’s Ways out of Oslo.
Where does the walk from Oslo to Trondheim end?
The Gudbrandsdalsleden St Olav’s route ends in Trondheim. You will also hear and see Trondheim referred to as “Nidaros”, which is the medieval name for the city. After a long entrance into Trondheim, you will find the “0km” marker just outside of Nidaros Cathedral.
When you arrive to Trondheim, and you have taken a moment to enjoy your arrival and photographed it, we highly recommend going straight to the pilgrim centre in Trondheim. The building occupies a wonderful spot by the river, plus you get an extremely warm welcome and coffee when you arrive and the cakes in the cafe are divine.
The pilgrim centre in Trondheim is where you can collect your certificate and you will be given a “golden stamp”, which gives you access to Nidaros Cathedral. Before you go into the Cathedral remember to walk around the building three times, as is the tradition of all pilgrims arriving.
Should you choose the western or eastern route of Gudbrandsdalsleden on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim?
Whether to take the Western or Eastern Route of the Gudbrandsdalsleden is one of the first decisions you will need to make when walking from Oslo to Trondheim. The route splits very near to the start of the walk in Oslo, so you will need to decide in advance.
Here are they key differences between the two routes:
|Western Route||Eastern Route|
|Travels to the West of Lake Mjosa||Travels to the East of Lake Mjosa and |
you spend more
days walking along the lake
|Does not pass the airport||Passes the airport|
|Slightly longer route (13km/ 8 miles)||Slightly shorter route (by 13km/ 8 miles)|
|More likely to be in the shade during the summer||More likely to be in the |
sun during the summer
|Thought to be the scenic “countryside route”||Thought to be the “historic” route, |
as it takes in Hamar and
Eidsvoll which both have important monuments
|Anecdotally, we think this is slightly less popular||Anecdotally, we think this is slightly more popular|
|You will pass Granavollen Pilgrim Centre||You will pass Hamar Pilgrim Centre|
On balance, we chose to walk the Eastern Route and were pleased with our decision. We enjoyed the spectacular scenery, forests and enjoyed basking in the sun whilst the west side of the lake looked to be in the shade.
It is possible to combine both routes – see below note on the pilgrim’s boat.
What is the pilgrim’s boat on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim?
Skiblander is a paddle steam boat that crosses Lake Mjøsa (the largest lake in Norway). It was historically used by pilgrims to cross from the Western side of the lake to reach Hamar. It is now thought of as the “pilgrim’s boat” and with your pilgrim’s passport you can get a discount.
It calls into eight sailing ports, including Lillehammer and Hamar. Check sailing times in advance. And do note, you cannot take dogs on the boat.
To combine the Western and Eastern routes, you can go from Granavollen to Kapp or Gjøvik and then take Skiblander (the pilgrim boat) which will take you to Hamar.
You can find out more about Skiblander here on their website.
Walking stages Oslo to Trondheim
Before diving into the daily walking stages guide, we wanted to highlight that it is useful to think about the walk from Oslo to Trondheim in four stages. These are:
Stage One: Oslo to Lillehammer (approx 192km/119miles)
Stage Two: Lillehammer to Dovre (approx 141km/87miles)
Stage Three: Dovre to Oppdal (approx 91km/56miles)
Stage Four: Oppdal to Trondheim (approx 146km/90miles)
Each stage has it’s own merits and challenges and you will want to plan and prepare accordingly. The other reason that it is helpful to consider the walk in four stages, is that the daily stages are very fluid.
Unlike walking the Camino de Santiago, or the Via Francigena, you really can choose how far you walk each day and where you decide to stay overnight. Particularly if you have a tent, you do not need to follow any “recommended daily walking stages.”
Instead, you can consider each of the four stages of the walk and decide how long you intend to spend walking each stage, which will give you a rough idea of your time schedule.
We include a short overview of each of the fours stages below.
Stage One: Oslo to Lillehammer (approx 192km/ 119 miles)
This is the start of the walk on St Olav’s Way from Oslo to Trondheim. After the buzzing city of Oslo, you will leave through the Eastern or Western Route. On the Eastern Route, you will experience some walking through slightly industrial areas, including past the airport. Many people choose to join the route at the airport, which is around 60km north of the city, rather than take the train into Oslo and walk out.
After some industrial areas, the countryside starts to open out and you soon start to find farm stays and hostels which make this route what it is. Highlights of the walk also include views of Lake Mjøsa and a visit to the historical and bustling town of Hamar.
The Western and Eastern Routes join in Lillehammer and at this point you may start to see more pilgrims walking.
Stage Two: Lillehammer to Dovre (approx 141km/ 87 miles)
Lillehammer is a busy but compact city, known for hosting the Winter Olympics in 1994. Today, it has a tourist vibe with bars and restaurants lining the main streets.
From Lillehammer onward to Dovre, you will walk through the Gudbrandsdalen which gives the walk from Oslo to Trondheim it’s name. You’ll walk alongside rivers, then take steep climbs to the uplands, the areas used predominately for summer farms, before descending down to the river once again. The scenery in this stage of the was simply stunning, but the walking can be tough.
Stage Three: Dovre to Oppdal (approx 91km/ 56 miles)
Dovre to Oppdal is one of the most challenging sections of the walk. You will walk through the Dovrefjell national park and mountain range. This stage of the walk is characterized by steep hill climbs and changeable weather. But you are rewarded with special views and animal sightings.
Stage Three requires more planning than the other stages as accommodation is a little more restrictive. Although there are a decent amount of mountain lodges, they tend to be more expensive and can be popular due to walkers enjoying the mountains.
The other factor to consider on Stage Three is access to food and water. There are no shops after Dovre town before you arrive in Oppdal, although there are places to dine at hotels and mountain lodges. More detail on this below, but we recommend carrying at least two days worth of food, especially if you are on a budget.
Aside from June, July and August, you can expect snow in the mountains and therefore the route may not be passable. But even in summer months you should check the weather before making your ascent into Dovrefjell.
Stage Four: Oppdal to Trondheim (approx 146km/ 90 miles)
After you reach Oppdal, the walk to Trondheim becomes a little easier. Although there are some undulating routes, most of the walking in stage four is flatter than in previous stages. Anecdotally, we found this section of the walk to be slightly cheaper than the first three sections. We also found a little more road walking than in previous sections, but that meant that we were able to walk at a quicker pace than previously. This is a good stage of the walk from Oslo to Trondheim to make up extra miles/kms if you need to.
Daily walking stages from Oslo to Trondheim
Day One: Oslo to Aaraas Farm Pilgrim Hostel 20km (12 miles)
Route: Starting in Oslo at the Cathedral and near to the pilgrim centre, the route soon splits into the East and Western options. We opted for the Eastern route which takes you out of the city via Østre Aker Church. From here, the route is fairly industrial before entering your first forest on the outskirts of Oslo. Although this is not the most exciting day of walking, we opted for a shorter day of 20km to get adjusted to walking with backpacks again.
Amenities: Once leaving Oslo, there are no amenities beyond rest areas. There are some churches to visit on route. You will want to stock up on a few days food in Oslo before you head out.
Accommodation: Aaraas Farm Pilgrim Hostel is a simple farm stay option for pilgrims. There are a range of options, including pitching a tent or sleeping inside, with the chance to add inexpensive meals if you wish to. There’s also WiFi and laundry (not that you’ll need that just yet!)
Day Two: Aaraas Farm Pilgrim Hostel to Arteid Vestre 18km (11 miles)
Route: The easy and short route today is a mix of trails and road walking. Look out for the various rest areas to enjoy lunch and the pretty Skedsmo Church, where you can enter if there are no services on.
It’s worth noting that you can walk longer days out of Oslo should you choose to. The reason that we broke down our daily stages like this was two-fold. Firstly, to ease into the walk gently. Secondly, around Oslo airport there is no pilgrim accommodation and camping is a little unknown, instead you must stay in a hotel. Therefore, we structured our days to avoid this issue.
Amenities: Skedsmo Church has the option to refill water bottles and there are various rest areas on route. Otherwise, there are no shops, so ensure you have food available.
Accommodation: Arteid Vestre is a cute and basic accommodation option for pilgrims. It’s a self serve affair with a small kitchen and basic beds. Sleeping bags are required (as with most accommodation on this route from Oslo to Trondheim). The charge is 200 NOK per person and cash is required.
Day Three: Arteid Vestre to Risebru Pilegrim Hostel 32km (20 miles)
Route: The route is relatively flat with some trail walking, some track and some road. There are a few rest areas and some interesting monuments on route. Ullensaker Church, near to the start of the walk is a pleasant stop and often serves coffee. Raknehaugen is an interesting area too, being a large historic burial ground.
Amenities: Again, there are no amenities on route today (apart from the church). If you do need a supermarket, you can walk a little further past Risebru to the Kiwi Supermarket in Dal. But do note that the nearest accommodation to this is the Best Western Leto Arena.
Accommodation: Risebru Pilegrim Hostel is a pleasant place with some basic amenities. Tents can pitch and use the facilities, including shower for 250NOK. Or, you can stay inside for 350 NOK.
Day Four: Risebru Pilegrim Hostel to Solvang Hostel 22km (14 miles)
Route: A little bit of the route today is on road and pavement, across a few fields, and few short inclines but mostly flat. There were a few places where you could get lost, but these are minor and easily corrected. Look out on the map to check your location. Some nice footpaths with bridges. Eidsvoll is the best place to stop for lunch especially if the weather is good you can sit by the river and perhaps enjoy a swim (but be careful of the river dangers.)
Amenities: There is a cafe in Eidsvoll Verk. Eidsvoll has a kiwi supermarket and Rema 1000 super market. This is the best place to stock up with food for the next few days. There are also cafes and a fast food place in Eidsvoll. A water fountain can be found in Eidsvoll near to the supermarket/ toilets.
Accommodation: We stayed in Solvang hostel which is new for 2023, a small place with a cabin and room for a few tents. There’s a hot water shower and you can get drinking water. Self serve and don’t need to notify of your arrival. There’s a guest book to sign. Payment is on a donation basis.
*Note, if you decide to start walking from the Airport rather than city centre, today is the day that you will join the route. You can take a short train from Oslo Airport to Eidsvoll Verk, the nearest station on the route. From there you can start walking on the route right away.
Day Six: Solvang Hostel to Millom Pilgrim Hostel 26km (16 miles)
Route: lots of trails through pine forests. Some tracks with gravel, no road walking. Many stepping stones and bridges. Lake side walking when Lake Mjosa comes into view but take advantage of chances to swim when you get them as you do move away from the lake. A few gradual climbs but nothing significant.
Amenities: There are two pilgrim cabins to stop at on route, one with a toilet (hole in the ground) called Lysjøhimet and one with a full toilet (Pilegrimsbua at Granerud). Both can be stayed at overnight if you needed to. Fire pit and wood available. No shops. One water tap at the second pilgrim hostel – it’s powered by solar, which is pretty cool! There’s also a place to charge your phone at Pilegrimsbua.
Accommodation: We stayed at Millom Pilgrim Hostel hosted by Jens and Sonja. This was one of our favourites on the route. It’s a new place as of 2023 and the hosts are very welcoming. There is a wonderfully decorated cabin and a lovely lounge room to hang out and cook. Shower and toilet basic but fine. Place to charge phone. We camped and paid 200 NOK to use the facilities.
In between Solvang and Millom, you will also find the overnight shelter Pilegrimsbua at Granerud which is a pilgrim shelter with water and the possibility to stay overnight. Before this, Lysjøhimet is a self-serve accommodation. It is basic and costs 100NOK. Drinking water must be fetched from the river.
Find out more about our favourite accommodation on route here.
Day Seven: Millom Pilgrim Hostel to Herkestad farm 26km (16 miles)
Route: The route starts on road from Millom down the hill and winds up the lake. The largest lake in Norway, Lake Mjosa. From there you walk into Tangen town. There’s a church there. Mostly on quiet tracks all the way to Tangen. Then onto a trail in pine forests, you pass a few hostels and then you come out after hills. Out at Stange church and then you come to some road walking but it’s quiet. In the summer, there’s a delightful smell of lilac in the air for most of the day. Stange church is pretty and it’s worth stopping to look and sign the guest book.
Amenities: Tangen has a spar supermarket in town and one cafe in town. After this, most days apart from Wednesday and Sunday there is a farm shop open on the road to Herkestad Otherwise from mid summer until end of summer is a strawberry stand, which is famous for waffles (alongside the strawberries.)
Accommodation: we stayed at Herkestad farm This was a great place to stay, we chose to pitch our tent and found ourselves sharing with some delightful ponies for a little bit. A pilgrim supper is available if you notify the host in advance. Herkestad farm has been open for 12 years, be sure to chat to the host who has some wonderful stories to tell. You can stay inside the farm for 450NOK.
Day Eight: Herkestad Farm to Koss Farm 34km (21 miles)
Route: The route started with road walking for about 1km. Then you lead off to a path takes you in a loop past a golf course with views of the lake. Walk on track around lake and then a walking cycling path away from the water before crossing the bridge to Hamar. You can walk through the town if you need to collect provisions and see the town, or walk past.
Hamar pilgrim centre
The pilgrim centre is on the outskirts of the town. Be sure to visit the pilgrim centre for some useful information and a chat, then stop at the ruins on route. Take advantage of a chance to swim in the lake before turning right and away from the lake just after a kiosk selling ice cream and Asian food. You’ll head into a pine forest and out onto a road. Roads to a church and then past church on tracks, turning left into grassy trail, eventually coming to Brummundal town. 5km further to walk on a mix of road and path before climging up a 200m incline to Koss Farm.
Amenities: Hamar has lots of cafes and a supermarket. It’s a good idea to visit the pilgrim centre where you can charge phones and get water or coffee and find out any information you need. On the outskirts of Hamar there is a kiosk for icecream or snacks. Brummundal also has cafes and restaurants and a supermarket.
Accommodation: We stayed at Koss Farm which offers cabins with pilgrim beds and tent space with an incredible view of lake. Dinner and breakfast can be booked in advance. We recommend booking in advance and calling the host to confirm on the day. We sent an email on the day to confirm, having booked in advance, and the host was very surprised to find us there which led to some confusion. A fellow pilgrim also had a few issues with her accommodation. But, it was the start of the season so perhaps the issues are ironed out now.
Day Nine: Koss Farm to Brøttum Camping 30km (19 miles)
Route: The first part of the route is fairly non-descript, with some road walking and pavement. We pass the Prøysenhuset museum, a museum dedicated to the author Alf Prøysen. Near to Moelv, amongst the pine trees is a delightful beach where you can enjoy your lunch. Look out for a small clearing just before Moelv marina.
After Moelv, be prepared for a very steep climb. There is a huge hill that keeps going up until you reach the Rehab Centre. Eventually you enter a wooded trail, which takes you off the road. At the very top of the hill is a seating spot, which has a guest book to sign. It is mostly down hill from there until Brottum.
Amenities: There’s a petrol station and a large hyper market in Rudshøgda, which is near to the start of the day. There are also shops in Moelv. After this, there is nothing until you reach Brottum, where you will find a Joker store close to the church.
Accommodation: We stayed at the Brottum Camp Site. This is a low key camp site with cabins, we notified of our arrival in advance. Great facilities for such a small site.
Day Ten: Brøttum Camping to Pilegrimsbu Øyer Cabin 27km (17 miles)
Route: From the campsite to Lillehammer is a mostly easy and downhill walk. After walking through the city, you pass the University and enter a trail. There’s a period of walking on a road underneath a motorway before tucking into the woods to the cabin.
Amenities: Lillehammer has everything you need. There are sports shops and supermarkets. There’s also a large Kiwi supermarket on the trail on the outskirts.
Accommodation: we camped near to the pilgrim rest area, Pilegrimsbu Oyer. It had electricity and a bin. The toilets were broken when we arrived and there was no water, but we understand that this is now resolved as a new water pump has been installed. There’s a small outdoor shelter for one or two pilgrims too.
Day Eleven: Pilegrimsbu Øyer Cabin to Mageli Campsite 29km (18 miles)
Route: The route today involves a lot of climbing. You’ll climb approx 800m over the course of the day. At times it feels as though you can’t get any higher. Mix of roads, tracks and paths to climb and round the hill before eventually climbing down a very steep track to reach Mageli.
Amenities: Very little on route today apart from pilgrim hostels. There are no places to buy food or top up water.
Accommodation: There are a few hostels on route but we opted for Mageli campsite. This is a lovely site with pitches by the water and an on site cafe.
Day Twelve: Mageli Campsite to Heimtun Campsite 30km (19 miles)
Route: The first part of the walk is on road after the initial climb and path from the campsite. We were able to get a few kms under our belt before we stopped for food. You will walk through one town with a supermarket but you have to come slightly off route to get to it. Expect to climb around 300m throughout the day. Some wooded trails and a lot on road or gravel path today. The highlight of the route is the fabulous Ringebu Stave Church, one of 28 Stave churches in Norway. Pilgrims are allowed to enter for free.
Amenities: town with large supermarket at around 11km into the route, cafe near church and a town at around 8km before the end.
Accommodation: There are a few options on route. Including a couple of campsites near to Heimtun. Heimtun Campsite had cabins and tent pitches and was very welcoming to pilgrims. 10 NOK for a shower and theres a small kitchen.
Day Thirteen: Heimtun Campsite to Kirketeigen Youth Center and Camping 31 km (19 miles)
Route:The route starts off on a road east to the pilgrim centre. After this, head up path and near Sygard Grytting – historical site the route from here is up hill and into trail all the way to Kvam. We actually encountered some quite threatening cows (!) who would not let us pass and we had to take a slight detour along the road.
Amenities: The route today doesn’t go into a town but you will pass the pilgrim centre. The pilgrim centre has stamps, and can use the bathroom and make a coffee or tea. There are towns on route but the path is high above towns and it’s not easy to get up or down. Circle K petrol station is just after pilgrim centre if you do need anything. There is also a supermarket next to the campsite.
Accommodation: we stayed at a campsite, Kirketeigen Youth Center and Camping. Excellent facilities, including showers you don’t have to pay extra for and a kitchen. Washing machine and tumble dryer. Cabin 250NOK and tent 190NOK. There’s WiFi available too.
Day Fourteen: Kirketeigen Youth Center to Otta 23km (14 miles)
Route: there are two or three very steep climbs over the course of the walk today. This makes progress slow even over a short distance. Climbing up and down through narrow paths feels a bit like doing a HIIT class! We walked in the heatwave making this feel harder, but expect to climb around 600m over the day. The surroundings are very pleasant with pine trees and woodland. There’s also a nice meadow to walk through and views of the river overland. The walk into Otta is flat along the road but on pavement.
Amenities: there’s a rafting venue/ hostel half way exactly that we stopped to ask for water, a cafe in a campsite next door might serve drinks but it didn’t appear to be open when we walked. Beyond this, the first store is in Otta, a small town with a McDonald’s and shops. The most civilization we had seen since Lillehammer.
Accommodation: we had been intending to walk further today, but we were very tired after the hill climbs and decided to stay in Otta. We opted for a nice campsite (Otta Camping og Mottell) a little way out of town and off the route, but it was worth if for the good facilities and quiet spot the river. If you can continue a little further past Otta, we recommend continuing to Jørundgard Medieval Center. This is one of the most popular accommodation options on the route but we overlooked it as it is marked as a “cultural site” on the Pilgrim map rather than accommodation.
Day Fifteen: Otta to Dovre 32km (20 miles)
Route: The path is mostly flat to Sel and you can gain some speed over this stretch. You’ll also pass the medieval centre which is pilgrim accommodation and has been used as a movie set before, be sure to pop in. After this, you’ll find trails with many climbs and descents. There’s a few detours to get around a train line safely and some spectacular views of the river. After the hills, you will walk on a road and descend into Dovre.
Amenities: On route, we passed a petrol station where we were able to buy a snack (the obligatory hot dog). You will also find Vollheim Camping and Cabins which helpfully has a shop selling ice creams, which were most welcome on a hot day. The friendly owners also allowed us to fill up our water bottles too. Once in Dovre, there is a supermarket selling everything you need to take up to the mountains and a perfect stop for a celebratory beer after finishing stage two of the route.
Accommodation: We opted to wild camp near to Dovre as we wanted to use the opportunity to stock up in the Co-Op Supermarket in the morning before entering Dovrefjell. There is a place just past Dovre, Budsjord Historical Farm but it opens in mid-summer and we arrived too early. But, on passing we noticed that it looks a lovely place to stay.
Day Sixteen: Dovre to Fokstugu 18km (11 miles)
Route: from Dovre, you walk up behind the church and the climb starts from here. Be careful to follow directions as it’s easy to go wrong up the hill. From here you enter the base of Dovrefjell National park. You are advised that it is at least a six hour walk before reaching the first accommodation and you should not pass this point after 14:00. A sharp hill is then followed by a less steep and more gradual climb. Eventually you hit the trig point and it’s flat or downhill from there.
When we walked in June, the terrain was very boggy under foot as the snow had been melting quickly. Be sure to check weather conditions before heading up to Doverfjell. We recommend keeping your days fairly short during the Dovrefjell stage of the walk from Oslo to Trondheim, this is because the pace is fairly slow. But, it will also give you time to enjoy the unique scenery.
Amenities: You will not find any amenities between Dovre and Fokstugu, be sure to stock up well in Dovre. At Fokstugu, there are cooking facilities and a few dry good for sale (pasta and sauce etc.)
Accommodation: Fokstugu Mountain Lodge is a lovely place with great pilgrim accommodation. It was one of our favorite places to stay on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim. There is a big kitchen, great showers and a super lounge with a fire place. There’s also a chapel for pilgrims too. You can opt for a private room or a shared dorm. The price is 500 NOK per person. Be sure to book ahead.
Day Seventeen: Fokstugu to Hageseter Tourist Cabin 21km (13 miles)
Route: This was a tough day of walking, particularly due to the terrain. The day starts with a climb before you reach the Dovrefjell plateau. Many places under foot were very wet and require bridges or boardwalks too cross. There were some points where boardwalks were a little broken. Expect to get a bit wet! We also encountered snowy patches where the snow had not yet melted. But, the hard walking is so worth it for the incredible views.
Amenities: nothing but you and the footpaths! But, you can eat at Hageseter (see below).
Accommodation: We stayed with our tent at Hageseter Tourist Cabin which has tent pitches and cabins available. The campsite was 240 NOK, a little more than we paid elsewhere. The highlight of Hagaseter was the food! For around 200 NOK, we had an incredible plate of steak and chips, we even splashed out on our first draft beer in Norway. The service was friendly and the food most welcome! You can also buy snacks to take away or request a packed lunch for the next day. Just be aware that the kitchen closes at around 19:00.
Day Eighteen: Hageseter to Ryphusam 36km (22 miles)
Route: Although this day was undoubtedly one of our hardest, the walking was also incredible. We do recommend splitting this into two days if you have the time, but this means staying at Kongsvold Mountain Lodge, which we felt was a little expensive, or wild camping. We didn’t have enough food to wild camp, so we pushed on to Ryphusan, fueled by last night’s supper and a chocolate bar.
The path is fairly flat to start, but you ascend steeply a few times. On this day, you will also pass Dovrefjell pilgrim centre, but do note the limited opening hours. After this, there is a gentle but long climb up to Hjerkkin. After some paths leading to Kongsvold, you will then climb once again up a popular hikers path, before taking in some spectacular views. The path leads off and meanders through some wet/ marshy land where stepping stones are required for some time. Look out for Musk Oxen and other animals.
Amenities: You will pass Dovrefjell pilgrim centre, where you can fill up water and pop in for a chat if it is open. Kongsvold does sell lunch, but it is on the pricier side. Otherwise, there are no amenities. You can find drinking water in streams easily. Ryphusan has a small stove and a dry food for sale (noodles, pasta etc.) It seemed very well stocked, so you don’t need to worry that food will run out.
Accommodation: Ryphusan is a really special place. It is a barn that has been turned into a refuge for walkers. See more information on this below.
What you need to know about staying at Ryphusan
If you are walking solo or in a couple, this is a great place to stay. But if you walk in a group you are advised to stay elsewhere if you can, as they want to ensure that individuals have access to the refuge.
You cannot book so it’s first come first served. We counted 10 mattresses, plus 4 beds in a tent in the garden. At Ryphusan you have a stove and a basic toilet. There is no running water, but you can find drinking water right next to the hut from the stream. This is also a great place for a dip!
As we had a tent, we chose to wild camp near to the hut and instead paid to use the facilities (50 NOK). Otherwise, it is 250 NOK per person to sleep inside. You can pay cash or transfer money. There is electricity in the hut, but absolutely no phone signal. There is food for sale and it is reasonably priced.
If you are concerned about not finding space at Ryphusan, you have two options. Either, you can book a taxi to a campsite around 10-12km further down the road, or you can walk the distance. You can make a booking at the campsite (Smegarden.) If you come from Kongsvold, then the distance is around 30km from there to Smegarden.
Day Nineteen: Rhyphusam to IMI Stølen 30km (19 miles)
Route: The route goes downhill from Rhyphusan with a few foopaths. It feels a fairly easily meander towards Oppdal. You’ll start to find phone signal as you leave Ryphusan behind. Look out for the delightful Chapel of Saint Mikael on route. We actually exited the official St Olav’s Way towards Oppdal as we noticed that the route was not taking us into the town centre. If you need provisions, we recommend doing this.
Amenities: Amenities can be found in Oppdal. There is a supermarket, cafes and a liqueur store (should you need some Aquavit to calm your nerves after Dovrefjell.)
Accommodation: We pitched our tent at IMI Stølen, a great site with a kitchen and good showers. This is around 5km out of Oppdal.
Day Twenty: IMI Stølen to Meslo Alberge 38km (24 miles)
Route: Although 38km may sound ridiculous, this stretch is a good chance to make up some distance. The road is fairly flat and there’s a fair bit of road walking, meaning you can increase pace a little. We also wanted to get to Meslo Alberge and were not disappointed with our choice.
Amenities: There are no amenities on route today, apart from a few hostels.
Accommodation: Meslo Alberge is a delightful farm stay on the walk from Oslo to Trondheim, after Dovrefjell. We paid 600 NOK for a home cooked dinner, breakfast and overnight accommodation. The lodge is a shared space for pilgrims, decorated wonderfully. A very cosy and comfortable place to stay with wonderful hosts. Book ahead.
Day Twenty One: Meslo Alberge to Meldal 27km (17 miles)
Route: A few climbs and trails today. And a little road walking by the river. A fairly easy and quick day on the route from Oslo to Trondheim. The walk was broken up by lots of amenities.
Amenities: A good day for amenities, a supermarket can be found a few kms from Meslo in Voll. Later, you’ll find a delightful pilgrim cafe well worth a stop. Then towards Meldal is a “pop-up” pilgrim refreshment area selling ice-cream and drinks (cash only/ self-serve.) When you arrive in Meldal, there are two supermarkets. The Spar sells cooked pizzas to takeaway and there’s a pleasant seating area outside the shop.
Accommodation: Ner-Grefstad farm is the main accommodation in Meldal. A recently renovated and friendly hostel. A little further you can find a rustic cabin where you can stay overnight.
Day Twenty Two: Meldal to Svorkmo skytterhus 18km (11 miles)
Route: We took a fairly short day today and chose to stop in Svorkmo. After this, you enter a marsh land, so it’s best to stop in Svorkmo before then unless you can get through the marsh land by the end of the day. The route is a bit on road/ pavement and a little on trails. The trails were quite overgrown when we walked, so we chose to stick mostly to the road. You will walk through the cute town of Løkken Verk, which has a museum and a famous yarn store!
Amenities: There’s a cafe in Løkken Verk, which we found a little disappointing. But it does claim to have made the world’s biggest meat ball! There’s a supermarket in town too, the last for 28km.
Accommodation: We stayed at Svorkmo skytterhus, a shooting club house that opens up to pilgrims in the summer. This was a fun experience. Albeit quite basic accommodation on camp beds. There’s a good kitchen, with coffee to buy and basic shower/ bathroom. It is cash only and 300 NOK per person. Contact in advance to book. Around 1km short of this is an alternative place to stay, a little more cosy. If you do wish to walk further, there are places to wild camp in the marsh land or a cabin, which is really lovely (note no running water.)
Day Twenty Three: Svorkmo skytterhus to Øysand Camping 34km (21 miles)
Route: The route today goes through “marsh land,” which as the name suggests can be a little wet under foot. We had been dreading it, but it wasn’t so bad. Especially with board walks. After this, there is a little on road, before finding footpaths through the forest which is very pleasant. Eventually you will start the descent and have your first sighting of the Fjord. The climb down here is quite steep.
Amenities: Once through the marsh land, there is a supermarket in Skaun and another later on the route in Buvika. Øysand Camping also has a cafe.
Accommodation: If you want to break up the day, there are a few options. Aunan farm is a bit off route, Skaun parish house offers accommodation and there is a wonderful cabin in the woods too. We chose to stay at Øysand Camping and would not recommend it. The campsite was the least favourite of all that we stayed in. If you can, we would suggest going a little further to Sundet Farm, where you can enjoy being in a row boat to get to your accommodation! This also cuts a chunk of walking off your final day into Trondheim. Next time we walk from Oslo to Trondheim, we will stay at Sundet!
Day Twenty Four: Oysand to Trondheim 25km (15 miles)
Route: From Øysand is a long route into Trondheim and a slightly frustrating route that has to pass the river. It is better if you can go stay at Sundet farm and get the boat. There are some quite steep hills into Trondheim which caught us by surprise. There are shops around 5km out of the city but not much before this. The final route in to Trondheim is convoluted but stick with it for the best entrance to the cathedral.
When you arrive to Trondheim, and you have taken a moment to enjoy your arrival and photographed it, we highly recommend going straight to the pilgrim centre in Trondheim. The building occupies a wonderful spot by the river, plus you get an extremely warm welcome and coffee when you arrive and the cakes in the cafe are divine.
The pilgrim centre in Trondheim is where you can collect your certificate and you will be given a “golden stamp”, which gives you access to Nidaros Cathedral. Before you go into the Cathedral remember to walk around the building three times, as is the tradition of all pilgrims arriving. Look out for Cathedral opening hours, which are reduced on Saturdays.
Amenities: Quite sparse until around 5km out of the city.
Accommodation: You can stay in the pilgrim centre or find private accommodation. We felt that the Best Western which offers discount for pilgrims was pricey, even with the discount, and we chose to stay in a place we found on Booking.com. Trondheim is quite small so you can find somewhere close to the centre and the cathedral.
If you’d like an alternative perspective on Trondheim, you can find our guide to partying and stag parties in the city here.
Where will I stay on the route?
We’ve highlighted the different accommodation that we chose when walking from Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s way in the above daily stages.
If you’d like to know more about accommodation on the route, you can find our detailed guide here.
How much does it cost to walk from Norway to Trondheim on St Olav’s Ways?
Walking St Olav’s Way may cost you a lot, or alternatively very little. There are options in terms of food and accommodation to suit different budgets.
For accommodation, you can expect to pay 200NOK to pitch a tent at most campsites. For a bed in a pilgrim hostel, you can pay between 300NOK (for basic accommodation) or up to 1,000 NOK for something more luxury. But don’t expect to find a range in each town.
Norway has the right to roam, meaning you can wild camp in Norway for free (with some restrictions). On St Olav’s way, you will also find some overnight shelters which tend to be free to stay in.
In June 2023, we spent £600 ($760/700 Euros) per person completing the walk from Oslo to Trondheim. This was approximately 8,200 NOK. We were fortunate enough to travel to Norway at a time when the NOK was not so strong making our trip a little less expensive than it may have been in the past.
Our budget was spent as follows:
- Accommodation 50% – £300
- Food 40% – £240
- Alcohol 10% – £60
In addition we also paid around £150 for flights and £100 for a train from Trondheim to Oslo. Therefore we spent around £850 per person in total.
How should I prepare to walk from Oslo to Trondheim?
Training and preparation for the walk from Oslo to Trondheim is very important. You can find out more about training for St Olav’s Ways here. We’ve also written about our top tips for walking St Olav’s Way here. And of course, you can find the all important packing list for St Olav’s Ways here.
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Most of our planning is done using other blogs, but you can’t beat a guide book at the bottom of your case. Find yours on here on Amazon and get the travelling started!
How to walk the Norwegian Camino: Oslo to Trondheim on St Olav’s Way
Norway Travel Guide by World Citizen
Lonely Planet Norway
Rick Steves Scandinavia
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