LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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VISITING THE TROODOS MOUNTAINS, CYPRUS: A SHORT GUIDE.

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What dreadful hot weather we have! It keeps one in a continual state of inelegance.

Jane Austen

On average, the Troodos Mountains are 8 to 12 degrees centigrade cooler than other parts of Cyprus. In the sticky heat of the summer, the vast mountains to the centre of the island offer an escape for Cypriots who normally reside in the coastal cities of Limassol and Paphos.

And, I can see the appeal. Quaint villages cling to the side of the hills, vineyards and olive groves punctuated by the lilac of jacaranda flowers. Yet, the vast majority of tourists to Cyprus still travel to the coast – heading for the main resorts of Paphos and Ayia Napa.

Agrotourism in Cyprus: a new focus

With anti-tourism protests taking place in parts of Europe, it is fair to say that there is increasing concern about over-tourism, both in terms of the impact that it has on sustainability and the local community. Cyprus is a hugely popular tourist destination, with an estimated 4 million tourists having visited the island in 2023.

Tourism has always been the heartbeat of Cyprus’ economy, contributing (directly and indirectly) close to 20% of GDP.

Foreword to the Cyprus 2030 Tourism Strategy

Yet, there are parts of the island that are more popular than others. In 2022, according to CySTAT (an organization responsible for all things statistics in Cyprus) around 35% of tourists visited Paphos – that’s around 1 million tourists, in a city with a population of 70,000.

As part of the Cyprus National Tourism Strategy 2030, the Government is trying to balance this out. By 2030, Cyprus aims to ensure that all residents benefit from tourism – specifically those in rural and remote areas. To achieve this aim, agrotourism, tourism in rural areas, is being promoted.

If more tourists visit villages in the mountains, rather than coastal towns, more money will spread to the remote areas, jobs will be created and crucially – young people won’t have to leave their homes to find jobs elsewhere.

Where are the Troodos Mountains?

The Troodos Mountains are in the centre of Cyprus, reaching from the West Coast across the island. Villages in the foothills of the mountains tend also to be referred to as part of Troodos. The edge of the Troodos area is found around 30km North of Paphos and Limassol. Troodos is also the name of a village in the Troodos area (found here), which can get a little confusing.

Is it worth visiting the Troodos Mountains?

In our view, it is absolutely worth visiting the Troodos Mountains in Cyprus. This remote mountain area offers a total contrast to the often built up coastal cities of Paphos and Limassol.

Troodos is known for the culture – with a number of monasteries, churches and museums. As well as gastronomy and wine – there are 14 wine villages in and around the Troodos region.

We opted to visit the Troodos region a few times during whilst exploring Cyprus. It is possible to enjoy a day trip, or two, or to stay in the area for a longer period.

Many people call the villages and rural areas of Cyprus, the “real Cyprus” and I can see why. A visit to the Troodos area transports you to another world – where time moves slowly, rural traditional remains and the crowds are few and far between.

It is in Troodos are the surrounding villages that Halloumi is made, wine grapes are grown and fruit trees blossom. And if that’s not the definition of real Cyprus, I’m not sure what is.

Things to do in Troodos Mountains Cyprus

Having explore the Troodos Mountains, here are a few of our top recommendations.

Monasteries and Churches

Monasteries and churches have an important role in Cypriot culture. The main religion in Cyprus is Orthodox Christian and you’ll notice that many of the Orthodox churches in Cyprus have domes, in keeping with the Byzantine tradition. Monasteries in Cyprus also tend to be grand, with opulent decor inside.

In and around Troodos, many of the monasteries are now tourist attractions. In particular, Kykkos monastery one of the grandest on the island which is built at 1,318 metres. Omodos also has a beautiful monastery – the Timios Stavros Monastery was built around 300 AD and renovated in the 19th Century.

Remember if you visit monasteries or churches in Cyprus that you need to dress modestly. Some monasteries will offer you robes to cover up before you enter but it’s best to carry a shawl or shirt to cover up and wear a dress below the knee.

Wine Tasting & Gastronomy

One of my greatest memories form our visit to Cyprus, is the wine tasting we did at Lambouri Winery. It was so good, that we visited twice. A contemporary winery, set overlooking a forest, they make wine with a mix of traditional Cypriot grapes alongside the better known such as Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine making in Cyprus is big business, with 14 wine villages in and around Troodos and numerous vineyards producing white, red, rose and Cyprus’ famous sweet wine Commanderia. Consider visiting Kato Platres (the home of Lambouri), Koilani or Omodos if you want to enjoy a wine tasting.

Omodos is also famous for a distinctive blue wine – I must say that I declined to try it as I found the colour off putting, but it is certainly novel.

The villages of Troodos also offer pleasing gastronomy, serving classic dishes like Lamb Kleftiko and Moussaka, as well as Meze. In Cyprus, Meze is quite a big deal – you can often get a Meze selection for around 20 Euros per person, the plates and wine keep on coming all night.

Quaint Villages

One of the most popular things to do in the Troodos mountains is to visit the authentic Cypriot villages.

Omodos is a better known village, often visited on day trips from Pahphos and Limassol, yet it retains the traditional character and charm. Spend a few hours amongst the bustling cobbled streets, languidly drinking wine in the village square or dining at outstanding restaurants like the Black Geese, known for it’s Moussaka.

Plano Platres is one of the easiest villages to get by public transport from Limassol. We enjoyed a pleasant day in Platres, walking the Caledonia waterfall, drinking coffee in the village and visiting wineries.

Lofou has a different sort of vibe, a village of only 200 residents. There are two or three cafes, a gorgeous bakery and a handful of shops offering local handicrafts. A few hours here is idyllic, soaking up the mountain air and sound of silence.

Troodos Mountains Waterfalls & Nature

One of the biggest attractions to the Troodos Mountains area is the spectacular nature. Amongst the cypress trees, golden oak and juniper plants there are beautiful waterfalls, such as Millomeris Waterfall and Caledonia Waterfall.

For lovers of all things flora, the Botanical Gardens near to Troodos village will be worth a visit for an hour or so.

Many villages offer hiking trails, for example the Calledonia Waterfall trail from Platres. And, the longer E4 path crosses from one side of the mountain range to the other. The mountains are also very popular for cyclists.

Skiing

We visited Troodos in June and as we covered ourselves in factor 50 sunscreen and hid under parasols, it was very hard to imagine that it is possible to actually ski in Cyprus. Yes, that’s right, it can snow in the Troodos Mountains in winter. Specifically, on Mount Olympos which is the highest point of the Troodos Mountains at 1,952 meters.

The Mount Olympos Ski resort in Troodos, offers 4kms of ski slopes and 5 ski lifts. It’s not exactly a big resort, nor comparable to the Alps. That said, with the opportunity to ski from January to April, it is enticing to know that you could be skiing in the mountains one day and sunbathing on the beach the next.

Where to stay in Troodos Mountains

With the towns and villages quite spread out, it can be difficult to choose exactly where to stay in Troodos. Here are some options:

Omodos: A bustling village

If you have only a few days, I would recommend Omodos as a great base – a more bustling area, with more to see and do than smaller villages.

I’m not sure what could be more idyllic than staying in a genuine village home in Omodos. Kassandras Place, is just that. With mountain views and a central village location, you’re bound to feel a sense of escapism here.

There are also similar village houses available for up to five guests on booking.com.

Rural Options

If you’d prefer to stay somewhere even more rural, here are a few choices:

MID-RANGE: The wine house (pictured above) is a small property in Pano Panagia, a village 30km north of Paphos in the foothills of Troodos. The terrace is the standout feature of this property, as well as being a stones throw away from a vineyard.

LUXURY: There are a handful of gorgeous rural villas available in and around the Troodos Mountains. Like this 6 person house with an incredible veranda in Platres village.

Alternatively, a few luxury hotels can be found in the Troodos Mountains area. One such example is Casale Panayiotis which has a spa, swimming pool and terraces shaded by vines.

Getting to the Troodos Mountains

Here is a short guide to getting to the Troodos Mountains by car, bus and tour.

By Car:

Getting to the Troodos Mountain area and surrounding villages is relatively straight forward. Limassol is closer to the villages of Omodos, Lofou and Platres, whilst Paphos is closer to Pagnia and Kykkos Monastery.

Main roads can be taken close to the vicinity of the mountains, then smaller roads lead to villages and attractions. Car parking in villages and surrounding areas tends to be plentiful and often free.

By Bus:

Exploring the villages of the Troodos Mountains by bus is a little tricky and requires some forward planning. Two of the easiest areas to get to by bus from Limassol are Platres village and Troodos town. The bus number 64 leaves Limassol in the morning, returning in the early evening for day trippers.

As far as I can tell, it is not possible to take a bus to Omodos or Lofou, instead you have to drive or book a tour. It would be possible to arrange taxis between the villages if you were so inclined.

The Paphos region offers some great bus links to Paphos villages, such as Cholou and Pano Panagia. You can find timetables easily accessible online too.

By Tour:

There are many tours operating from Limassol and Paphos allowing travelers the chance to glimpse the villages of the Troodos Mountains and rural Cyprus. Here are a few great options:

• 100% Cyprus – a rural tour visiting Lofou, Omodos, wine tasting and waterfall visit
• Troodos Villages – gastronomy tour, including 3 winery visits and a meze lunch
• From Paphos – Chrysoroyiatissa, Kykkos and Omodos Day Trip
• Mountain towns and cheese making tour

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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