How to walk the Berwickshire Coastal Path

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HOW TO WALK THE BERWICKSHIRE COASTAL PATH.


The Berwickshire Coastal Path is a 28 miles (45 kilometers) U.K. coastal route starting at Berwick-upon-Tweed and finishing at Cockburnspath. The route crosses between England and Scotland.

This route, part of the broader Berwickshire Coastal Path, offers hikers the chance to experience Scotland’s scenic coastline with a challenging terrain. In this article we discuss our thoughts on how to walk Berwickshire Coastal Path.

Which way should I walk the Berwickshire Coastal Path? North or South

Either way works well, however our recommendation would be to walk North to South so that you finish in Berwick Upon Tweed which has more amenities and leaves an open ended finish time.

And additionally you can get the immediate “travel” section out the way at the start. Other hikers said to us they prefer to have the sun on your back as you walk- (however this fantastically optimistic for that part of the world).

What is a good itinerary for the Berwickshire Coastal Path?

We walked the Berwickshire Coastal Path in two days and would therefore would recommend the following:

  • Day 1 – 12 miles/19km (Cockburnspath to St Abbs Head/ St Abbs) Pitch at Horsecastle Bay if wild camping or continue to St Abbs and stay there;
  • Day 2 – 16 miles/30km to Berwick.

That said, it would also be possible to walk in three days. Aim to reach somewhere between Eyemouth and Burnmouth Harbour by the end of day two.

Route Markers for the Berwickshire Coastal Path

The route (North to South) is as follows:

  • Cockburnspath: 0 miles (Start)
  • Pease Bay: 2.5 mile/ 4km
  • Dowlaw (for Fast Castle): 7.5 mile/ 12km
  • St Abbs Head: 12 Mile/ 19km
  • St Abbs: 14 mile/ 22.5km
  • Eyemouth: 17 mile/ 27km
  • Burnmouth Harbour: 22 mile/ 34.5km
  • The Border (England/Scotland): 24 mile/ 39km
  • Berwick Upon Tweed: 28 mile/ 45kms (Finish)

Is the Berwickshire Coastal Path well signposted?

The route is well signposted using a white Tilde (~) symbol on blue background. A good overview of the gradient profile, route and stopping off points can be found here.

How difficult is the Berwickshire Coastal Path between Berwick-Upon Tweed and Cockburnspath?

Overall we feel the Berwickshire Coastal Path is a above average difficulty hike. If you plan to camp then two days to complete is possible, (this is what we did) but you will need to have good fitness with a favorable weather conditions- (note you will have a heavier load with camping gear/cooking).

If you plan to stay in a B&B and require only day backpacks you will be able to go at a more leisurely pace/ enjoy the scenery then two days would be comfortable.

For those less experienced/able- three days would be best with an average distance of 14 km a day.

Can you wild camp on the Berwichshire Coastal Path?

In Scotland – yes, on the English side no. Wild camping is legal in Scotland, as long as it’s done responsibly and in line with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. 

Where are the best camp spots on the Berwickshire Coastal Path?

There are a few great camping spots on the Berwickshire Coastal Path, we found a couple of amazing ones that I’ve shared below. You will likely need these at roughly the half way mark.

Near St Abbs Head | This cove east of Horsecastle Bay (55°54’30.5″N 2°07’50.8″W)

Between St Abbs/ Eyemouth: Milldown Bay

Where are the best hotels and B&B’s on the Berwickshire Coastal Path?

If you are not keen on camping then you can find a handful of B&Bs and hotels on route. Here are some of the best:

COCKBURNSPATH: Cove Farm which has cabins.

ST ABBS: A cottage for rent in St Abbs may be the ideal place to rest up.

EYEMOUTH: The Ships Quarters.

BERWICK UPON TWEED: Mirandas Guest House or YHA Berwick.

What is the best way to get to Cockburnspath to start the hike?

For ease we took a taxi which cost £50 (as of Aug 2024) which takes approx 30 minutes. The public bus 253 leaves infrequently from the train station at 10.00, 12.00 and 15.00 but provides a more affordable option.

Where can I refill my water on the Berwickshire Coastal Path?

If you are wild camping having a backup water supply is a must. Eyemouth and St Abb both have shops and water points by the harbour where you can top up. There are a number of streams on route which you will need to use water purification. We tried to top up our water using the Loch and found no luck as it was either too heavy with algae or inaccessible- would not recommend.

To avoid nervousness pack a minimum of 3 litres each so you have enough to see you through for cooking/ first morning and camp near one of the towns so you have a backup if needed.

Can the Berwickshire Coastal Path be done in one day?

I think the answer is theorectially yes but it would need to be high summer, start very early and be an experienced hiker who are prepared for a long day.

Our total hiking time over 2 days was 13 hours total (note with tent, cooking and sleeping gear). With lighter bags you will be quicker but the miles will wear harder towards the end.

I think the better question is with such stunning scenery is it actually worth doing in a day? Better to wake up leisurely to see seals bobbing in the bay as you get your tent packed away.

What are the highlights along Berwickshire Coastal Path?

Berwickshire Coastal Path guide
FAST CASTLE

Fast Castle: A ruined medieval fortress perched on a promontory high above the sea. Although only a few crumbling walls remain, the castle’s location is spectacular, and it is easy to imagine how imposing it must have looked in its heyday.

ST ABBS VILLAGE & HEAD

St Abbs Village & HeadPicture perfect Scottish coastline personified. This stretch provides raw dropping views in both directions of the coast with deserted coves and bays that have an abundance of birds and sea creatures. We lost count of the number of seals we saw pop up and dive back down. On the northely side of  St. Abbs Head, the cliffs rise dramatically, and the path winds along the edge, offering thrilling views of the sea far below.

EYEMOUTH

Eyemouth: We would also recommend stopping into Lough’s home bakery for their homemade pies- steak my personal favourite – and a great treat for later on in the route. For those historical buffs, The Eyemouth Museum provides insights into the town’s seafaring past, including the tragic events of the 1881 Eyemouth Disaster, where many fishermen lost their lives in a severe storm.

THE BORDER

The Border: A must have photo for the ‘gram, of the border between England/ Scotland. Also particular highlight was seeing the pristine mowed grass on the English footpath once you crossed the border… local turf wars maybe?

BERWICK UPON TWEED

Berwick Upon Tweed: Berwick-upon-Tweed is a one of kind town- having changed hands between Scotland and England multiple times and known for its stunning views from its two bridges. There are some lovely pubs- we liked the The Barrels that had a band downstairs when we visited (The Honey Badgerz nailed it- no spotify sadly I checked 🙁 )  

If you have some extra time in the town its worthwhile visiting the Berwick Barracks and the town’s museums provide further historical insights or for those more light-hearted a round of mini golf at Holey Moleys (Magdalene Fields Golf Club) is the finest mini golf I have ever seen and a snip at £3/round. Things do get competitive though so watch out.

Looking for other hikes in the U.K.?

Looking for a similar hike we would highly recommend the English Camino that starts near Reading and finishes near Southampton. This hike is actually an older pilgrimage that Christians took on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Written by George

Brother Lotus. BBQ Extraordinaire. All round enthusiast.



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