LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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HOW TO SPEND ONE DAY IN PALERMO: THE BEST BITS WITHOUT RUSHING.

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Palermo, the main city of Sicily, has been on my travel bucket list for many a year. I had visions of chaotic food markets, snatched conversations across balconies, raised Italian voices everywhere and strong espresso. In short – an authentic and wild Sicilian experience. I was quite overexcited when I landed at the airport, and even more so when I arrived to the city, finally!

Unfortunately, this excitement quickly faded when reality hit a little bit. I have to be totally honest and say that on my first visit, I didn’t fall for Palermo. In fact, I was a touch disappointed. The centre of the city felt touristy, commercial and just a bit generic. Not what I’d expected at all.

Luckily, over the course of a month spent in Sicily, I returned to Palermo a further three times and slowly but surely, the city showed me that it had more than a few surprises. But I had to get away from the crowds to find them.

Whilst it is inevitable that you must walk down the two main streets in Palermo, Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele, it does not always make for the best experience. Instead, get away from the main drags to find the more interesting and unique aspects that Palermo has to offer.

In this blog post, I’ll pick out the best bits, to help you hit the ground running better than I did!

Don’t have time to read the full article?

Is one day in Palermo enough?

While you could easily spend several days exploring Palermo as we did, one day is just about enough to experience the highlights without feeling overwhelmed. The key is to move at a relaxed pace and try not to cram in too much. This guide will help you make the most of your day without rushing through Palermo like a bat out of hell.

How to spend one day in Palermo without feeling hectic

Palermo is a city of contrasts shaped by it’s eclectic history. From ancient Arab-Norman architecture to lively markets brimming with Sicilian street food. The trick to exploring Palermo in just one day? Focus on the highlights, but leave room for spontaneous stops.

One day in Palermo: a map

Palermo is a city best explored on foot, and the good news is that the most iconic sights are clustered together.

Morning in Palermo

A QUIET COFFEE MOMENT

It’s almost like an unwritten law that every day in Italy should start with a quick cappuccino, and maybe a cornetto (croissant.) In Palermo, I’d recommend staying well away from the coffee shops on the main tourist streets – instead picking out somewhere a little more local.

Depending on where you’re staying, my recommendations would be, Torrefazione Amato (near to the train station on Via Oreto), or if you’re towards the other end of Palermo, try Spinnato.

As a general rule, avoid Via Maqueda and pick a cafe that attracts a higher ratio of older Sicilian gentleman to tourists.

WHISTLE STOP THEATRE TOUR

After your coffee, it’s time to quickly stop by Palermo’s famous theatre, Teatro Massimo, the largest opera house in Italy. You can take a guided tour to learn about its history, but even a quick stop to admire the elaborate facade is worth it. The theatre sits on Piazza Verdi, a lively square where buskers sometimes stand performing.

PALERMO CATHEDRAL + PORTO NUOVA

Although it is very much on the tourist trail in Palermo, I would very much recommend visiting the Cathedral. An interesting Arab-Norman structure that is quite different to others in Sicily. The eclectic style reflects Sicily’s multicultural history.

Tickets for the Cathedral are a wee bit confusing. It is actually free to enter the main building, so you can do this without a ticket and you can enter from 07:00 in the morning.

If you want to access the roof tops, crypts and the Cathedral complex (which includes a museum), you’ll need a ticket. The Cathedral roof tops cost around 7€, whilst the full ticket is 15€.

If you are particularly enthusiastic about the history of Sicily’s church, religious artifacts and sort of thing, go for the whole ticket. With one day in Palermo and limited energy, I’d recommend just opting for the roof top ticket.

A word of caution – stairs to the roof are steep and can feel a little claustrophobic. I’d also recommend getting there are 09:00 to avoid crowds. We visited later in the day and whilst the view was lovely, we felt a bit like cattle being herded on and off a roof.

Remember, when visiting Cathedral’s in Sicily, you’ll need to wear appropriate clothing. Cover up shoulders and avoid donning any beachwear.

As you leave the cathedral, walk through the impressive Porto Nuova, a monumental gate that once marked the entrance to the city.

CANNOLI ELEVENSES

No visit to Palermo would be complete without indulging in a cannoli, a sweet ricotta-filled pastry that Sicilians have perfected. By about 11:00, I’m sure you’ll be ready for a sweet hit.

I have two recommendations for slightly special places to buy cannoli.

The first is I Segreti del Chiostro, a hidden café in the courtyard of Santa Caterina Church. There is a gorgeous courtyard here where you can enjoy your cannoli. I’ll be totally upfront with you, this place is a delight but it has become a bit of an “Instagram” sensation. So the queues can be hectic. We visited on a food tour which allowed us to skip said queues.

If this place is too busy, head to the Antica Focacceria San Francesco for a more traditional experience. By no means is this a second best choice, the staff are lovely and the cafe has a great vibe.

Afternoon in Palermo

BROWSE FOOD MARKETS

Palermo’s food markets are perhaps not the most authentic that you’ll encounter in Sicily, the balance tips a little too far towards being a tourist experience. But they are worth a visit, if not just for the spectacle.

Our favourite food markets in Sicily are in Ortigia and Catania. Be sure to check them out if you love your food.

In Palermo, Ballarò Market is the most famous and often feels quite hectic. A little less overwhelming are the smaller markets of Mercato di Capo and La Vucciria.

If you visit Ballarò, go during the day and stick to the well-trodden paths as the area can feel less safe after dark.

OR TAKE A STREET FOOD TOUR

If you want to experience Palermo’s culinary scene in more depth, consider joining a Secret Food Tour. The tour takes you to genuine hidden gems around the city, where you’ll sample local favorites such as sfincione and cannoli, while learning a abit about the city, from somene who actually lives there.

We were really impressed with the tour guide Lorenzo, who brought a lightness and sense of humour to the tour.

You can switch this to the evening for a more leisurely exploration, but it works equally well as an afternoon adventure.

VISIT THE THREE BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES

For a light afternoon activity, you can pick one, two or three churches to visit in Palermo. Thankfully they are found grouped closely together.

Select from:

• The Church of St. Mary of the Admiral (La Martorana), famous for its dazzling Byzantine mosaics and the most visited of the three.
• Chiesa di San Cataldo, a Norman church with its iconic red domes. Perhaps less impressive inside than others, but still special.
• Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, where you can climb to the rooftop for stunning views of the city.

Every local and tourist has their own favourite. Personally, I can’t quite recall which was which! But I don’t think you can go far wrong seeing any of them.

Entry fees for each is 2€ at time of writing. There doesn’t seem to be a discount for visiting all three.

As you leave, grab a glimpse of the Praetorian Fountain. It has the nickname “fountain of shame”, not because the fountain doesn’t flow, but because of the nude statues. Reportedly when it was first erected, nuns hastily covered the statues up. Perhaps it wouldn’t be considered quite so risque now, but it was then!

A SHORT RIPOSA

As the afternoon sun peaks, it’s time for a riposa – a brief rest. Head back to your hotel for a moment of peace. Unless you have the stamina of ox, you’ll need a nap or at least a lay down by this stage.

Evening in Palermo

APERITIVO IN KALSA AREA

Now to my favourite time of day in Sicily! Aperitivo time. Avoid Via Maqueda for aperitivo at all costs – it is overpriced and crowded.

Instead make your way to the Kalsa District for aperitivo. This historic quarter is where Palermo’s Arab roots are most visible and it has a young and trendy vibe.

For drinks, try Farmacia Alcolica, a quirky bar known for its creative cocktails, or Bar Timi, which offers a more laid-back vibe. Sip on a spritz and enjoy the evening buzz as the streets fill with life.

DINE OUT

For dinner, Palermo offers everything from Michelin-starred dining to casual local joints. Here are a few of my recommendations:

• MEC Restaurant: A Michelin-starred spot near the cathedral, offering innovative takes on Sicilian cuisine in a chic setting. Ideal if you’re feeling frivolous.
• Taverna Celso: Located near Via Maqueda (but crucially not on it), it’s a fun spot for drinks and nibbles, though it might feel a bit touristy for some.
• Trattoria al Sorriso: A budget-friendly option close to the station, serving hearty Sicilian dishes without frills.
• Osteria Alivàru da Carlo Napoli: Stay in Kalsa and enjoy traditional Sicilian fare at this intimate osteria.
• Vucciria Alcolisti per Passione: For a more casual meal, head to Vucciria for fried fish, cheap beer, and wine. We really loved it here. Especially how close it was to great (and cheap) bars like Taverna Azzura nearby.

LISTEN TO MUSIC AT QUATTRO CANTI

The cross roads of Piazza Vigilena (known as Quattor Canti) are a bit of a touristic mish mash. In my view they best avoided for most of the day. However, it can be a magical place late at night if you arrive at just the right moment.

Late into the evening street performers gather, playing to slightly tipsy crowds. Grab a spot and soak it all in.

OR DANCE IN LA VUCCIRIA

If you’re not ready to call it a night, head back to La Vucciria. Late in the evening, the market area turns into a lively hub for group dancing and street parties. It’s the perfect place to experience Palermo’s vivacious nightlife and get your salsa on.

Work up the courage to join in, whilst you sip drinks at Taverna Azzura.

How to get to Palermo

Palermo is well-connected by air, with Falcone-Borsellino Airport offering flights from major cities in Europe. From the airport, you can take a shuttle bus, taxi, or train directly into the city center. If arriving by train, Palermo Centrale is the main station, conveniently located close to many of the city’s key attractions.

Find out more about how to get to the city from the airport here.

Where to stay in Palermo

If your visit to Palermo is fleeting, I would recommend sticking to one of three areas when it comes to choosing where to stay:

KALSA: A young and quirky neighbourhood with some of the best nightlife and bars

Our top pick in Kalsa: InCanto

HISTORIC CENTRE: The main are for tourists visiting Palermo.

Our top pick in the historic centre: B&B Al Piazza Marina

ALBERGHERIA: The area surrounding the central train and bus stations. There’s a more lived in feel to this area of Palermo and it’s a great area to pick if you’re on a budget.

Our top picks in Albergheria: Palazzo Amazigh or Il Siciliano room’s & suite

Looking for day trips from Palermo?

You can find some handy guides to ideal day trip destinations below:

• Mondello Beach – the closest beach to Palermo
• One day in Cefalu – an ideal day trip from Palermo

Interested in Sicily’s second city

You can find guides to visiting Catania below.

• Catania: how to enjoy one day in the city
• Best day trips from Catania

Where to next in Sicily?

We’ve got loads of similar guides to help you explore Sicily more. Find them below:

• One day in Palermo: A guide to seeing the best bits
• Visiting Mondello Beach from Palermo
• One day in Cefalu: A day trip from Palermo
• One idyllic day in Syracuse & Ortigia
• Palermo or Catania: Where should you start your Sicily adventures?
• One day in the city of Catania: An unexpected gem
• Day trips from Catania: 9 of the best
• Best things to do in Modica for the day
• A guide to Ragusa: things to do and where to stay
• Modica or Ragusa – which is better?
• Pozzallo Beach – the traditional sandy beach town dream
• Best things to do in Sutera, Sicily
• Walking in Sicily on the Magna Via Francigena
• A two week itinerary in Sicily – how to travel without a car

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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