THE CAMINO SANABRES: FROM OURSENSE TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.
Walking into Santiago de Compostela is always special, no matter which path you take.
Over the years, we’ve arrived multiple times via the Frances, and the Portuguese, each time experiencing that mix of exhaustion, anticipation, and joy as the Cathedral spires finally come into view. But on this trip, we found ourselves craving something different—something quieter.
That’s how we ended up on the Camino Sanabrés. Starting in the Galician city of Ourense, this lesser-walked route covers just over 100km to Santiago.
It’s short enough to fit into a long weekend or a few spare days, but long enough to settle into the rhythm of the Camino. We tagged into onto the end of the Camino Primitivo, and this worked well for us.
With peaceful trails, sleepy towns, and the rare pleasure of walking without crowds, the Sanabrés turned out to be exactly the Camino we didn’t know we needed.
All about the Camino Sanabrés
The Camino Sanabrés is one of the quieter routes to Santiago de Compostela, beginning in the town of Granja de la Moreruela and winding its way through Zamora, Ourense, and finally into Santiago. It’s often chosen by pilgrims who have already walked the busier routes, or who are seeking something more peaceful and reflective.
Many pilgrims choose to join the Camino Sanabrés from the Via del Plata, perhaps having started in Seville or in Almeria on the Camino Mozarabe.
From Ourense, the Camino Sanabrés is just over 100km to Santiago, making it a perfect option if you’re looking for a shorter walk that still qualifies for a Compostela certificate. Despite being relatively under the radar compared to the Frances or the Portuguese routes, the Sanabrés offers plenty of charm: beautiful Galician countryside, sleepy towns, and a sense of intimacy on the trail that can be hard to find elsewhere.
Why we chose this route
First and foremost, for a long time we had wanted to visit Ourense. We really enjoy the vibe in Galician cities, and Ourense was one we hadn’t yet discovered.
We were walking the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo and, over drinks in Lugo, realised that we weren’t super excited about the next part of the route where the Primitivo merges with the Frances. Whilst we do enjoy the Frances, we’d already walked it twice in recent years and just felt a little flat about repeating it.
We also knew that the last 100km of the Frances gets particularly busy, and we were craving a bit more time for reflection and solitude.
This is where the idea of walking the Camino Sanabrés into Santiago de Compostela came from. The next day, having splurged a whole €5 on a train ticket, we found ourselves in Ourense enjoying tapas and wine, ready to take on a new challenge.
Main towns on the Camino Sanabrés from Ourense to Santiago de Compostela
Although much of the walk passes through rural Galicia, there are a handful of towns that make useful stopping points along the way.
OURENSE
A charming city with Roman hot springs, lively tapas bars, and historic architecture. It’s worth arriving a day early to enjoy the old town and sample the famous local wines.
CEA
Known for its bread, which has protected status, Cea is a small, sleepy town that makes a natural first stop out of Ourense.
SILEDA
A bigger town with supermarkets, pharmacies, and plenty of cafés. It’s a practical stop, though not especially picturesque.
BANDEIRA
A pleasant little town, slightly livelier than Cea, with several places to eat and shop.
Accommodation on the Camino Sanobres between Ourense and Santiago de Compostela
When we made the last-minute decision to walk this stretch of the Camino Sanabrés, our first thought was whether accommodation would be available. We knew it wasn’t one of the more popular routes, and sometimes that can mean patchy infrastructure.
We were very pleasantly surprised. This was the first time we’ve walked a Camino and felt confident that we could simply walk and secure accommodation without booking ahead. It gave our trip a wonderful dose of spontaneity.
The Xunta de Galicia runs Municipal Albergues at regular intervals. We chose to stay exclusively in these and were impressed. At €10 per person, they’re inexpensive, pilgrim-only, and first-come-first-served. Facilities are basic but some of the locations and buildings were stunning, with views that felt priceless.
Private options also exist along the way, especially in Cea, Estación de Lalín, Lalín (a short detour off route), Silleda, Bandeira, and near Santiago.
And while I’m usually a fan of “boogie albergues”—private hostels with great facilities and communal dinners—there weren’t many on this route. One exception is Casa Leiras Hostel in Dornelas, which looked absolutely lovely when we passed by, though we couldn’t get a bed.
Our daily stages on the Camino Sanobres
We walked the 105km from Ourense to Santiago in four days, choosing our stages partly around the locations of the Municipal Albergues. It could be done in three longer days or stretched into five, especially if you want to include the alternative route to Oseira Monastery.
For us, four days was the perfect balance, and we enjoyed having a shorter final walk into Santiago.
Day One: Ourense to Cea
ROUTE
KEY DETAILS: 22km, ascent 620m, descent 280m, 4-5 hours.
Leaving Ourense, we crossed the Roman Bridge and began a steady climb along the Camino Real Cudeiro Sur. The path was dotted with small displays outside homes celebrating the Camino, and as we climbed higher, we were rewarded with sweeping views back over the city.
After the initial 400–500m ascent, the route levelled out, leading us through a mix of quiet hamlets and stretches of peaceful road.
Cea itself is best known for its bread, and although the town felt sleepy when we arrived, it was a pleasant and relaxing place to spend the evening.
AMENITIES
- Plenty of options as you leave Ourense – supermarkets and cafes that open early for breakfast
- 12km – petrol station with cafe and supermarket
- 13km – bar/ cafe in Bouzas
- 18km – small cafe in Viduedo
- Cea has a small grocery store, cafe (Sol y Luna), and a few bars. We enjoyed an easy supper at A Casa dos Caretas.
ACCOMMODATION
We chose to stay at the Municipal Albergue in Cea. Honestly, I had been dreading this because the google reviews are quite scathing. Our experience was a good one though, we found the albergue to be clean and comfortable. As two of only six pilgrims there, we had plenty of space and secured ourselves a little nook at the end.
The albergue is €10 per person, and pilgrim credential is required.
For private accommodation, consider A Quinta de Cea, a quiet guesthouse in the centre of town.
ALTERNATIVES TO CEA
As an alternative, you can continue on to Arenteiro Municipal Albergue – a further 5km along the route. We considered staying there because it has great reviews, a lovely location and a horse stables attached! But, decided on balance to stay in Cea so that we could enjoy a relaxed supper and see the town.
If you plan to take the alternative route to Oseria from Cea, you could walk to the monastery – a total of 32km from Ourense to Oseria. In Oseria, there are two private options too – Casal Oseira (upmarket and luxurious) and Pension A Casiña D,avoa Oseira (a little more lowkey.)
Day Two: Cea to A Laxe
ROUTE
KEY DETAILS: 33km, ascent 850m, descent 820m, 6-7 hours.
Today you can choose between the direct route or an 8km detour via Oseira Monastery. We didn’t take it but, given the beauty of the monastery, we’d consider it next time. The alternative rejoins the main route near O Castro.
Much of the day is on quiet country roads with stretches of eucalyptus and pine forest. Sadly, between Carballeda and O Castro we passed through several kilometres of land recently damaged by wildfire.
After skirting near Lalín, the route ended for us in A Laxe, a small hamlet where the Camino Invierno merges with the Sanabrés.
AMENITIES
- In Cea, Sol y Luna opens early for breakfast
- 14km – O Castro, there are a few bars but we didn’t experience great service, so went to the petrol station instead
- 28km – Estacion de Lalin has two restaurants. A Taberna de Vento wasn’t open when we arrived so we had lunch at Restaurante A Estación. Whilst the food was good, we felt that the prices were higher than we would expect.
- In A Laxe, there is a restaurant near to the albergue – Restaurante María José – but note that it closes early on Saturday and Sunday.
ACCOMMODATION
Albergue Laxe is in the quiet hamlet of A Laxe. This is where the Camino Invierno merges with the Sanabrés, so we expected to see more pilgrims but it was just us in the albergue. A huge building with glass and stone, it felt spacious and modern. There’s a terrace with seating to relax outside, washing machines and basic kitchen facilities (but no kitchenware.)
ALTERNATIVES
Estacion de Lalin is 4km before A Laxe, here you’ll find Restaurante Hostal A Taberna De Vento, which has inexpensive private rooms. Alternatively, 5km off route is the city of Lalin (a short bus ride or walk away). In Lalin there are plentiful private albergues and private rooms.
Day Three: A Laxe to Outeiro/ Vedra
ROUTE
KEY DETAILS: 34km, ascent 900m, descent 700m, 6-7 hours.
This was the prettiest day of our Camino Sanabrés. A long walk but filled with woodland trails, peaceful lanes, and welcoming towns. The highlights were Silleda and Bandeira, both offering plenty of options for food and rest.
We stopped for lunch at Mesón O Peixeiro, just before Ponte Ulla, and lingered over a superb menu del día on their sunny terrace. The day finished with a climb through vineyards and forests before reaching the albergue in Outeiro.
AMENITIES
- 5km – Cafe Bar Ugia is just off route (a recommend detour)
- 9km – Sileda is a small town with grocery stores, pharmacies and cafes
- 16.5km – Bandeira has a few restaurants, cafes and shops
- 26.5km – Just off route is the fantastic Mesón O Peixeiro – they offer a fabulous Menu del Dia for €14
- 29km – Ponte Ulla has a small grocery store and two restaurants
ACCOMMODATION
The Municipal Albergue in Outeiro is a total treat. There are two large dorm rooms and the facilities are fine (although note – communal showers with cold water only when we visited.) But, the garden and views more than make up for all of that. This area has lots of rural hotels, which cost far more than an albergue would, so it felt really special to stay there.
ALTERNATIVES
4km before Outeiro is Ponte Ulla – here there is a private hostel (Albergue O Cruceiro) and hotel (A Taberna de Gundián).
A few kms beyond Outeiro, close to Santiago, is Casa de Casal. A popular pension with a swimming pool, an ideal place to stay if you’d like some R&R.
Day Four: Vedra to Santiago de Compostela
ROUTE
KEY DETAILS: 17km, ascent 400m, descent 450m, 3-4 hours.
Our final stage was a joy. Unlike the crowded approaches we’d experienced on the Frances and Portuguese routes, we had the trail almost to ourselves, passing only three other pilgrims.
The walk meanders through quiet villages and farmland, with the first sign of the city being the striking Cidade da Cultura de Galicia on the hill. Soon after, the Cathedral spires come into view. Entering Santiago on cobbled streets and finally stepping into the Cathedral square never loses its magic. And it felt particularly special to be able to walk in quiet reflection on this route.
AMENITIES
- 6km cafes and bakery in Desiro – we recommend Restaurante Vente Vindo Cafe-Bar
- 8km cafe in Susana
- Lots of amenities on the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela
ACCOMMODATION
We decided to stay in The Last Stamp hostel – this was where we stayed on our first visit to Santiago de Compostela and has a place in our hearts. On our latest visit, we noticed it seems a little more run down that it was a few years ago, but the location is still excellent.
You can find more information about the best things to do and where to stay in Santiago de Compostela here.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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