9 BEST TOWNS ON THE CAMINO PRIMITIVO.
The Camino Primitivo is known as a mountain route. It takes you on a journey high up into the Asturian hills, through misty forests and sleepy villages, then suddenly pops you out into Galician countryside.
As it’s such a rural route, we hadn’t expected to find quite so many wonderful towns as we did. But, as so often happens on the Camino and in Spain more generally, we were very pleasantly surprised.
If you’re wondering where to linger, rest, or simply soak up the best bits of the route, these are our picks for the best towns on the Camino Primitivo.
1/ Oviedo – A Perfect Start
We loved Oviedo from the moment we arrived. The cobbled old town, the café culture, the sense of calm before the Camino storm. It’s a beautiful place to start your journey, pick up your credential and to get your first sello at the Cathedral of San Salvador.
If you can, give yourself at least a full day here before you start walking. It’s the kind of city that deserves to be savoured — one last evening with good food and wine before those hiking boots truly take over your life.
2/ Grado – Market Town Charm
Our first stop after leaving Oviedo was Grado, and it couldn’t have been a better introduction to small-town Asturias. After 26 km of rolling countryside and the occasional confused turn (first-day excitement got the better of us), we arrived to find a smart little town full of life.
There’s plenty here — shops, bars, and a surprisingly excellent Bazar for all the things you inevitably forget on day one. If you arrive on a Sunday, you’ll hit the weekly market.
We stayed at La Quintana Hostel, a grand old building with a big garden and a lively bar. A great first Camino stop.
3/ Salas – Small But Mighty
Salas is one of those perfectly proportioned Camino towns — just enough bustle to feel alive, but still small enough that everyone seems to know each other. We didn’t stay here (and later wished we had), but it’s a great breakfast stop if you’re heading on to Tineo.
Don’t miss the chance to try carajitos from La Casa del Profesor — crumbly hazelnut biscuits that have been made here for over a century. They’re a local specialty and the perfect sweet boost before you start climbing again.
If you do stay here, Casa Sueño and Albergue El Tulipán de Salas came highly recommended by other pilgrims.
4/ Tineo – Our Favourite Town on the Primitivo
Tineo is an absolute gem. It’s big enough to have all the amenities you could want — shops, cafés, restaurants — but still feels unmistakably Asturian.
The walk into town is lovely, winding through shaded trails, and when you arrive, you can reward yourself with sidra (Asturian cider) at Sidrería El Refugio and supper at La Vinoteca, which became one of our favourite meals of the entire route.
We stayed at the albergue hidden under the Palacio de Merás Hotel, which was an unexpected highlight. Plush by albergue standards, with proper bathrooms and breakfast included. Highly recommended.
You can find our full guide to visiting Tineo here.
5/ Pola de Allande – A Mountain Hug of a Town
Pola de Allande feels like it’s wrapped in the arms of the mountains — a cosy, slightly quirky town that’s full of charm. The walk in is tough (that final descent is a knee-trembler), but the reward is worth it.
We arrived just as a fiesta was kicking off — brass bands, fireworks, and all-night music. The locals clearly know how to have fun. We stayed at La Casita de Aba, where we were welcomed with homemade lemonade and the warmest hospitality on the trail.
6/ Grandas de Salime – One Last Night in Asturias
We decided to slow things down here, wanting to soak up one last night in Asturias before crossing into Galicia. The walk down into Grandas de Salime is epic — long, winding, and a little brutal on the knees, but the views over the dam and valley are spectacular.
Grandas itself is a small but charming town with a few bars, a museum (closed when we arrived, naturally), and a friendly pilgrim vibe. We stayed at Albergue Porta de Grandas, which was simple, clean, and very welcoming.
7/ Castroverde – The Surprise Gem
We didn’t expect to love Castroverde as much as we did. It’s one of those towns that sneaks up on you — pretty, compact, and full of life. By this point, we’d fallen into our Camino routine: walk, eat, rest, repeat. And Castroverde was perfect for it a lovely break.
There’s a handful of good bars around the church square.
If we were to walk the Camino again, we would aim to stay in this town.
8/ Lugo – Medieval Magic
If there’s one town you should plan to spend time in, it’s Lugo. It’s one of the few big cities on the Primitivo, but it doesn’t feel overwhelming. The old town, enclosed by perfectly preserved Roman walls, is full of energy.
We took a rest day here and spent it wandering the walls, eating tapas, and pretending we weren’t slightly broken from the hills of Asturias. Lugo has everything — history, great food, and that lovely sense of being somewhere important.
You can find our detailed guide to visiting Lugo here.
9/ Melide – Galician life
Melide is the point at which the Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Frances. And it’s somewhere we’ve visited numerous times. But yet, it’s always a pleasure.
It’s not a large town, but it feels buzzy and thriving. There is one main street running through the centre of town, making it easy to walk up and down and find lively restaurants or bars.
Like many towns in Galicia, food is a central part of life. In Melide, we recommend heading to one of the many Pulperias (low key restaurants specialising in octopus.) There are also frequent festivals and fiestas in the summer to look out for.
We opted for a quiet private room at a Lua do Camino. A clean and spacious albergue with a delightful swimming pool.
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Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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