A GUIDE TO VISITING OLD PERITHIA CORFU.
There’s something weirdly fascinating about abandoned places. In Vietnam, we wandered through an empty waterpark; in Turkey, a deserted village. So when we found ourselves in Corfu, it felt right to visit Old Perithia.
Hidden high in the Pantokrator mountains, Old Perithia is one of Corfu’s most interesting and unusual villages. In fact, it was so hidden that as we approached on foot, we didn’t see it!
Once home to around 1,200 people, it’s now only partly inhabited, a few residents remain, but most of the buildings are empty.
What makes it stand out is that it hasn’t been left to disappear completely. Instead, it’s become a small tourist destination, drawing visitors each day who come to walk its quiet lanes and imagine what life here used to be like.
This short guide outlines what to expect from a visit to Old Perithia.
Why visit Old Perithia?
Old Perithia is described as “Corfu’s Oldest Village.” It was built in the 14th century as a refuge from pirate raids (riveting!) The village is inland and hidden beneath mountains.
For centuries, it thrived before being largely abandoned in the mid-20th century, when residents moved closer to the coast.
Today, a handful of the old stone houses have been restored as guesthouses and tavernas, while the rest remain as beautiful ruins. A couple, Mark and Saskis Hendriksen, are widely credited with helping to revive the village, when they repaired and restored a few properties in the village.
Best things to do in Old Perithia
Here are the best things to do in the village to make the most of your time.
1/ Wander the cobbled lanes
The best thing to do here is simple: walk. Follow the winding stone paths past crumbling houses, empty doorways, and restored cottages. It might feel a little creepy, if it weren’t for a few tourists milling around and the waft of coffee from tavernas in the centre of the village.
2/ Lunch in the square
A testament to the village now being an attraction, Old Perithia has a handful of pretty tavernas, all clustered around the small main square. O Foros, Taverna Evdokia, and Gabriel’s Steps are among the best.
It’s hard to choose between them, they all look so inviting. We opted for Taverna Evdokia, which has a great view back over the hills.
3/ Visit the churches
Old Perithia once had eight churches, several of which still stand. Saint Spiridon is notable. I thought Theotokos of Life-giving Spring, was particularly charming – paint faded with age, but still pretty.
4/ Walk to Mount Pantokrator
If you fancy a hike, Old Perithia is a good starting point for the trail up to Mount Pantokrator’s summit. It takes around one to two hours each way, with wide views across Corfu.
5/ Stay overnight
We didn’t do it, but I can imagine that spending the night in Old Perithia could be quite magical. Once the day visitors leave, the village probably becomes hauntingly quiet.
The Old Merchants House is an attractive B&B in the centre of town. It has an incredible 9.8 review score on booking.com!
6/ Explore nearby beaches
If you’re visiting in summer, combine Old Perithia with a stop at the coast. Agios Spyridon, Apraos, and Kalamaki Beach are all within 20 minutes’ drive.
7/ Try local honey
The hills around Old Perithia are known for their honey, made from the wildflowers that grow on the mountain slopes. In the centre of town you can find Syriotis Family Honey Shop, a really pretty little store selling perfect gifts and souvenirs.
When to visit Old Perithia
You could pretty much visit Old Perithia at any time of the year. Even in summer, the mountain air may be a welcome relief from coastal heat. And, many of the tavernas have cosy indoor space – so winter could also be lovely.
We walked through in morning, pausing to explore and drink coffee. Anecdotally, it was quite quiet when we arrived at around 10:00, but had started to fill up ahead of lunch time.
How to get to Old Perithia
From Corfu Town, it’s a 45-minute drive north following the coastal road to Kassiopi before turning inland towards Mount Pantokrator. A rental car or scooter is essential- public transport doesn’t reach the village.
There’s a free car park at the entrance and a short walk into the village itself.
We were walking the Corfu Trail – it’s entirely possible to arrive on foot – either from the coast or the inland trails.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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