VISITING MILI GORGE FROM RETHYMNO: A SHORT GUIDE.
We were staying in Rethymno and had already spent more than one day lazing on the beach and more than one evening indulging in beers and Cretan food. In true Lotus Eaters Travel fashion, that’s when I realised we needed to get a little active and find a nearby hike. That’s how we discovered Mili Gorge.
Whilst travelling in Crete, we had decided not to hire a car. So, Mili Gorge was ideal, as we quickly realised we could reach it easily by local bus. It became the perfect way to spend a slow morning before the heat of the day kicked in. Hidden just beyond the outskirts of Rethymno, Mili Gorge feels like a different world altogether – a cool, green ravine filled with crumbling stone mills, towering plane trees and the remnants of a village that nature is slowly reclaiming.
In this guide, you’ll find our top tips on how to get to Mili Gorge from Rethymno and what to expect from the walk.
Key details about Mili Gorge
- Location: Just south of Rethymno, Crete
- Type: Ravine and former mill area
- Walking distance: Approximately 4km
- Time needed: 1.5-2 hours at a leisurely pace
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Suitable for children: potentially, if sure footed
- Best time to visit: Spring and early summer, when the gorge is green and temperatures are cooler.
Getting to Mili Gorge from Rethymno
Mili Gorge may look remote, but it is surprisingly easy to visit from Rethymno.
Driving
Mili Gorge is a short drive from Rethymno. Most people who drive to the gorge, park at the north end of the trailhead – here. This works well, but just note that you will need to walk up hill to the top of the gorge, before returning back to the car – but at least the second half of the hike is downhill!
Bus
We took the bus from Rethymno to Mili Gorge. This is a local bus, with tickets costing around €2 each way. It’s actually a mini-bus, so has limited seating. On the day we did this journey, we were the only two hikers, surrounded by a sea of very friendly Cretan ladies who were all headed to the market with their shopping bags.
We took the bus from the bus stop Dimitrakaki 2, which is just beside the Municipal Park area. Having stocked up on coffee and baked goods from Niktaris Bakery on the edge of the old town. There’s a small ticket kiosk next to the bus station to buy tickets in advance. Timetables can be found on the KTEL bus website
The bus takes approximately 20 minutes, travelling from Rethymno in the direction of Chromonastiri. We got out directly outside the Mili Gorge south trail head, with the driver giving us a nod when we had arrived.
Tip: If you want to extend your day out, you could alight the bus in Chromonastiri – a small village with a few amenities, before walking 15 minutes down to the gorge.
Walking
We opted to take the bus to the south side of the gorge and walk down. Although our initial plan was to hike back up and return to the bus stop, we soon realised that it might be easier to continue walking to Rethymno. This took around 45 minutes to an hour from Cantina Banana downhill to Rethymno, on a combination of trails, quiet roads and along the beach.
Tip: If you plan to walk back from Mili Gorge, we recommend packing swimwear and your towel. This way, you can stop at the beach on route.
How difficult is the walk
The hike through Mili Gorge isn’t particularly challenging, especially if, like us, you walk from south to north and enjoy the mostly downhill route.
If you’re starting from the northern car park and hiking uphill, expect a few steeper sections that can feel hard work in the heat.
The paths are generally well maintained, although decent footwear is recommended. We wouldn’t suggest attempting the hike in flip-flops or flimsy sandals, as there are uneven surfaces and a few stepping stones along the way.
During summer, the gorge is mostly dry, but at other times of year you may encounter more water on the trail.
What to look out for on route
One of the things that makes Mili Gorge so interesting is that it isn’t just a nature walk.
The gorge was once home to the village of Mili, which was abandoned in the 1970s. As you walk, you’ll pass the atmospheric remains of old houses and watermills that once gave the village its name.
There are also several old mill buildings to explore, a small church and the cave chapel of Agios Ioannis, tucked away amongst the greenery.
Even in the middle of summer, the gorge feels surprisingly lush and shaded, with towering plane trees creating a cool escape from the heat of the coast.
Facilities at Mili Gorge
Mili Gorge has limited facilities. For this reason, it’s best to pack water and anything you need for the short hike.
At the south end of the trail is Myli taverna, the opening hours aren’t clear – when we visited at around 10:00 it was closed.
At the north trail end of the gorge walk, is the excellent Cantina Banana. A super friendly café, offering refreshments and lunch options. They’ve also got a toilet for customers use.
Tip: we found the gorge a little “buggy” it’s best to take spray this bothers you.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
British travel writer and long-distance hiker, native to Kent. Emma has walked the Camino de Santiago more than ten times, completed trails across Europe from the Corfu Trail to the Fisherman’s Trail, and covered thousands of kilometres on foot. She always writes from first-hand experience. Her goal? Inspire just one person to go on their first long-distance hike.
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