HIKING SAMARIA GORGE: OUR EXPERIENCE TAKING A TOUR.
Samaria Gorge is probably the most well-known hike in Crete, and it was high on my list when we planned our trip to the island.
The route runs through the White Mountains, starting at Omalos at around 4,000 feet above sea level and finishing at Agia Roumeli on the south coast. It’s around 16km in total, mostly downhill, and takes you through forests, along the river and into some seriously impressive sections of the gorge.
I did the hike as part of a tour from Chania. I wasn’t particularly interested in organising the transport myself, and given that this is a one-way hike, I think taking a tour made the day considerably easier.
It turned out to be a long day, but a good one. The scenery is excellent, the route is straightforward to follow and, although it’s mostly downhill, don’t underestimate the distance. My legs were definitely feeling it the next day.
Key details
Here are the key details about the Samaria Gorge hike in Crete:
- Location: White Mountains, Crete
- Starting point: Omalos Plateau, around 4,000ft above sea level
- Finish: Agia Roumeli on the south coast of Crete
- Distance: Around 16km
- Hiking time: 4 to 6 hours
- Tour: I went with Platanos Tours
Why we chose to take a tour to Samaria Gorge
Samaria Gorge is the most famous hike in Crete. When we decided to spend a couple of weeks in Crete in early summer, we knew that Samaria Gorge was firmly on our itinerary.
The gorge is located in the White Mountains, and the classic hike starts high up on the Omalos Plateau before descending through the gorge towards the Libyan Sea. Along the way, the landscape changes dramatically, from exposed mountain scenery to dense forest and the narrow, rocky sections that make Samaria so distinctive.
That said, we chose not to hire a car. Instead we based ourselves in three spots on the West Coast – including Chania. And from Chania, it’s very easy to book a tour to whisk you away to Samaria Gorge and back again.
If I did this hike again, I’d take the same tour again. Communication was good, the whole thing was organised and I was glad that I didn’t have to sort anything myself for the day.
Alternatives to tours
If you didn’t want to take a tour, it is possible to visit independently. But the transport is quite an odyssey. Because the hike is one-way – you walk down the gorge to the coast, you don’t finish where you start.
In fact, you arrive to Agia Roumeli, from which point you need to take a ferry to Sougia Beach and then return to the start point. Honestly, it is possible with your own transport – but I think it’s one of those experiences that is best managed with a tour.
What to expect on a tour
Emma wasn’t feeling well on the day, so in the end just one half of Lotus Eaters Travel (John) were able to attend.
The tour I booked (Platanos Tours) included return transport to and from Chania. The whole process was quite smooth – but be prepared for a lot of travel, and a long day. I was exhausted on return in the evening, having been collected at around 07:00 and returning at 20:00.
First up, a minibus collected me close to our hotel. I was then put onto a larger coach to the entrance of Samaria Gorge. The whole thing took 2.5 hours – so a good chance for a doze. The bus was comfortable and air-conditioned.
Before starting the hike, we stopped in Omalos in the heart of the White Mountains for breakfast. It’s a lovely way to begin the day: you’re already surrounded by mountains and at around 4,000ft above sea level, so it feels a world away from the coast.
From here, we headed to the entrance of Samaria Gorge. The scale of the landscape is impressive from the outset, and you quickly get a sense of just how far you’ll be descending during the day.
Once at the gorge, you can buy tickets at the entrance to the gorge – an additional €10. But, we were asked to get our tickets online whilst on the coach, which sped things up.
I was pleased that we were able to hike the gorge independently, we didn’t have to awkwardly descend as a group. The tour guide just asked that we checked in with them if we passed them. This made things a lot easier – I wasn’t particularly keen to walk as a group.
After the hike, the boat leaves Agia Roumeli at 17:30. Before another coach returned us to Chania city. I’d say that the entire bus was asleep (apart from the driver) on the way back.
Total cost of walking Samaria Gorge
The tour I booked cost €28, which covers the cost of the tour guide and the coach transport. To enter the gorge costs an additional €10. And the boat ticket is €15 per person. In total, €53 per person.
Hiking Samaria Gorge
Here’s a bit more about my experience of hiking Samaria Gorge.
The hike is essentially a journey from the mountains to the sea. You start high on the Omalos Plateau and spend the majority of the route descending through the gorge before emerging at Agia Roumeli. It’s this changing scenery that makes the walk so memorable.
The gorge itself is around 13km long, although the full walk from the trailhead to Agia Roumeli is around 16km. So while it is often described simply as a downhill hike, it’s a substantial day on your feet.
How difficult is it
I’d say that the Samaria Gorge is moderate – the first 6km are perhaps the most challenging. But the hike is downhill. You don’t require any technical skills, but a bit of proficiency and surefootedness is recommended for the gorge section. The last section after the gorge to the village is on route and is much easier.
I foolishly thought that it would be very easy as it’s a downhill hike – but was surprised to discover how stiff my legs were the next day.
How long does it take
The hike took me around 4 hours, to cover 16km. I would say I was at the quicker end of average – most people finished later. But keep in mind that you have plenty of time before the boat, so there’s really no need to rush.
What’s on route
From the get-go the views were stunning. Really, that’s what the hike is all about. Along the way, there are streams and wildflowers too – it’s very scenic.
You’ll also pass the famous narrow section of the gorge, where the enormous rock walls close in around the path. It’s one of those moments where the scale of Samaria really hits home.
Keep an eye out for the wildlife, too. The gorge is home to the kri-kri, Crete’s wild mountain goats, and we were lucky enough to see mountain goats roaming around the landscape.
Is it safe
The route feels really safe. There are rangers on route as well as plenty of other hikers, so you don’t feel alone on the descent. Tour guides act as sweepers, making sure that any stragglers aren’t left behind in the park. And it’s nearly impossible to get lost, as there’s just one main route down.
What to pack for the trip
I’d recommend taking a backpack, so that you can store plenty of water, snacks and sunscreen. A hat is also non-negotiable, the route can be quite exposed. And of course, good footwear.
When you reach Agia Roumeli at the end, there’s a chance to either hang out in a restaurant and explore shops, or sunbathe (or indeed both). So bring swimming gear if this appeals to you.
Amenities on route
I was surprised to discover that there is actually a cafe at the entrance to the gorge, so a chance to get refreshments. Our tour also stopped somewhere on route to get snacks and supplies.
Do note, that there are no amenities on the actual route though.
At the end, Agia Roumeli is pleasingly well equipped. It has dozens of shops and restaurants – and I had plenty of time to enjoy a slow lunch and a cold beer after the hike.
Written by John
Blogger. Hiker. Explorer. Chess Fan.
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