AFTER WALKING ACROSS THE CANARY ISLANDS RECENTLY, I’VE DECIDED THAT IT’S TIME TO STOP BEING SNOBBY ABOUT THEM.
There’s a common misconception surrounding the Canary Islands – a preconceived notion that they’re merely sun-soaked tourist traps, where package holidaymakers flock for a week of sunbathing and poolside cocktails.
I’ll admit, I used to be one of those snobby travelers who turned up their nose at the mere mention of these volcanic gems in the Atlantic. But all that changed when I decided to lace up my hiking boots and explore the islands on foot.
“Do they sell pot noodles here?”
Rows of sun loungers. Tanning oil. Cocktail umbrellas. Rowdy bars. These are juts a few of the words that I would associated with the Canary Islands before my recent trip. The very idea of “winter sun” brings an image of a certain type of British holiday maker basting themselves and laying in the sun by the pool.
I have been to the Canary Islands before. Briefly and for family holidays. A visit to Lanzarote when I was about ten particularly stands out. Cherished memories of swimming in the sea mainly – the long languid days of holiday that as a child seem to be filled with endless sunshine.
Memories of going to bed exhausted, salty, sandy and still feeling like I was floating. But for some reason, what seems like epic fun when you’re a kid doesn’t always appeal as a grown up.
However, that recently changed. In my quest to walk across as many countries as possible, I came across the GR131. A long distance hiking path spanning seven (for the uninitiated, there are actually eight Canary Islands.
I could previously only name three) of the Canary Islands. The climate in the Canary’s presented a prefect opportunity to walk in January.
Before I knew it, I was starting 2024 on a flight to Lanzarote accompanied by hundreds of other passengers on the fabled quest for “winter sun.” I’d estimated that 90% of the flight were heading for the typical “fly and flop”. And as you can tell, my snobbiness about the Canaries – and the travellers who might go there – had already kicked in.
Scenes at the arrivals gate only confirmed my suspicions, especially when I overheard a conversation between a group of girls waiting to board a TUI coach – “Do you think they’ll have chips at the hotel buffet?” one girl asked another. “I hope so, or I’ll have to buy pot noodles,” her friend replied. “Do they even sell pot noodles here?” another chimed in.
I don’t know about pot noodles, but they grow wine here
Once the airport and tourist resorts were behind me and I stopped onto the hiking trail, one of the first things I noticed in Lanzarote was the sheer amount of space.
The occasional village with white washed houses punctuated otherwise expansive and vast open terrain. The second thing I noticed amongst the inky black volcanic landscape was the incongruous sight of vines. There they were, dug into dark moon like craters, tiny vines. A sign of things to come.
In Tenerife, I stumbled upon a long dusty road with two bodegas on it. One was inexplicably closed, but the other presented a fabulous welcome. Overpriced cheese platters aside, a range of great wines were offered, sweet rose, crisp white and a warming red.
Obviously, I took my time to taste them all. And I wasn’t the only one. A group of Lycra clad Germans were cycling from Bodega to Bodega, making a day of it. A few young couples turned up in hire cars – seeking a romantic wine tasting experience for two. Next, a Dutch family sampled the locally grown vino, whilst their kids played in the garden. It was idyllic.
It was fascinating to discover that the Canary Islands actually has a rich history of wine production. Despite their small size, this archipelago is home to a diverse range of indigenous grape varieties and unique terroirs, giving rise to wines that are as individual as the islands themselves.
From the volcanic soils of Tenerife to the lush valleys of La Palma, each island presents its own interpretation of Canarian wine, reflecting the vibrant cultural heritage and natural beauty of the region. And, every island has opportunities for tourists to go on wine tasting tours or to visit the wineries.
Out with the old, in with the new
The Canary Islands are undergoing a quiet revolution, shedding their reputation as mere tourist playgrounds and embracing their authentic roots.
Beyond the bustling resorts and crowded beaches lies a world of undiscovered beauty, where rugged landscapes, charming villages, and centuries-old traditions await. From the cobblestone streets of Teguise in Lanzarote to the lush valleys of La Gomera, each island has its own unique personality waiting to be explored by modern tourists.
In recent years, the Canary Islands have made great strides towards sustainable tourism, with a growing emphasis on responsible travel practices and eco-friendly initiatives.
From eco-lodges and farm-to-table dining experiences to wildlife conservation efforts and community-based tourism projects, there’s a palpable sense of commitment to preserving the islands’ natural beauty for future generations to enjoy.
The Canary Islands are attracting a different type of tourist too. From Digital Nomads hanging out in the buzzing city of Las Palmas, to surfers flocking to Fuerteventura and hikers making strides across the tiny island of La Gomera.
On El Hierro, there’s even a pilgrimage (a Bajada de la Virgen de Los Reyes)- the next one is scheduled for 2025. Whilst tourists may not yet be visiting the Canary Islands solely for the food, the cuisine is changing with more modern influences.
La Gomera, has become somewhat of a leader when it comes to gourmet restaurants. Restaurant reservations are required even on such a tiny island! In Las Palmas, I found myself in Bodegon Pachichi, a trendy tapas place serving the famous Canarian potato dish Mojo Rojo. By the time I was on my second glass of wine, there was a queue around the block.
No more the “fly and flop” destination
As I ventured through the diverse terrain of the Canary Islands, I couldn’t help but marvel at the incredible variety of landscapes that unfolded before me.
From towering volcanic peaks on La Gomera to lush forests in Tenerife and stunning coastlines on Fuerteventura, the islands provide a true paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Whether you’re conquering the rugged trails of Tenerife’s Teide National Park or exploring the enchanting laurel forests of La Palma, the Canary Islands didn’t fail to astound with their natural beauty.
What’s more, I wasn’t alone in my quest to discover the Canary Islands one trail at a time. I met countless hikers, either tackling long distance routes like me, or just donning their hiking boots for one day.
Having not expected to meet many others mad enough to leave the beach, I was surprised to instead spend time in bars in mountain villages sharing stories of climbing steep hills with fellow walkers and cyclists. Despite the growing popularity of the Canary Islands as an adventure tourism hot spot, there are still plenty of trails and quiet corners to enjoy (for now!)
Which of the Canary Islands should you visit in 2024?
Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, the Canary Islands offer something for everyone.
From adrenaline-pumping water sports and world-class diving to rejuvenating spa retreats, star gazing and serene beach escapes, the islands cater to a diverse range of interests and preferences. And with year-round sunshine and pleasant temperatures, there’s never a bad time to visit.
Lanzarote’s otherworldly landscapes, shaped by volcanic eruptions, have earned it the nickname “The Island of Fire.”
The UNESCO-listed Timanfaya National Park showcases surreal lava fields, craters, and geothermal wonders, offering a glimpse into the island’s fiery past.
Lanzarote’s unique architecture, harmoniously blends with the natural environment, while its pristine beaches, vibrant seaside towns, and thriving arts scene captivate visitors year-round.
Fuerteventura is a paradise for sun-seekers, water sports enthusiasts, and nature lovers.
Its golden sand beaches and consistent winds attract windsurfers, kiteboarders, and surfers from around the world. Inland, the island features rugged volcanic terrain and desert landscapes, ideal for hiking, biking, and exploration.
Gran Canaria is the third-largest island in the archipelago, offering diverse landscapes including beaches, sand dunes, valleys, and mountain ranges.
Its capital, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, combines historic charm with modern amenities, while inland villages maintain traditional Canarian character.
The island is known for its microclimates, allowing visitors to experience various climates within short distances, making it a great destination for year-round exploration and outdoor activities.
Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, offers diverse landscapes, vibrant culture, and top attractions. The focal point is Mount Teide, Spain’s highest peak and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Additionally, the island features coastal resorts, historic towns, and charming villages surrounded by lush valleys and rugged cliffs. Visitors can enjoy lively festivals, delicious cuisine, and bustling nightlife.
La Gomera, to the west of Tenerife is known for its natural beauty and cultural richness.
The island features lush forests, deep ravines, and a rugged coastline, making it a haven for adventurers and nature enthusiasts. Its UNESCO-listed Garajonay National Park offers misty laurel forests and ancient hiking trails, showcasing endemic flora and fauna. Charming villages with traditional Canarian architecture and customs allow visitors to experience the island’s rich heritage.
From the unique whistling language Silbo Gomero to its warm hospitality, La Gomera captivates with its timeless allure and unspoiled landscapes, making it a hidden paradise for those seeking tranquility and adventure off the beaten path.
La Palma, also known as “La Isla Bonita”, is renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty and diverse wildlife.
The island is home to the Caldera de Taburiente National Park, recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, where visitors can admire striking volcanic landscapes, lush forests, and clear, dark skies ideal for stargazing.
Additionally, La Palma features captivating colonial towns, charming villages, and a lively arts and crafts scene, creating an inviting environment for both cultural exploration and outdoor adventures.
El Hierro, the smallest and westernmost Canary Island, is famous for its rugged coastline, volcanic landscapes, and tranquil atmosphere.
It is a paradise for nature lovers and adventurers, offering diverse ecosystems, including lush forests, volcanic craters, and marine reserves teeming with life.
Visitors can explore scenic hiking trails, dive into crystal-clear waters, and experience the island’s unique cultural heritage.
The GR131 across the Canary Islands
If you’re interested in more resources to help you decide whether the island hopping long distance path, the GR131, is right for your, or you want to plan your trip then check out our blog posts on that very topic here.
If you would rather a more sedate holiday, with a few adventures, then read my guides to the best things to do on my three favourite islands – Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria (published soon) and La Gomera (published soon) here.
Written by Emma
Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.
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One response to “The Canary Islands – beyond the “fly and flop””
[…] Islands. We visited a vineyard in Tenerife which produced a very pleasing rose wine. There are now vineyards on all of the main Canary Islands and many offer tours and […]