LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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THE ULTIMATE DAY HIKE FROM BARILOCHE: REFUGIO FREY BARILOCHE + LAGUNA TONCEK. ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW.

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Bariloche, often called the prettiest town in Patagonia, is a hikers dream. It offers the perfect base from which to explore mountains, lakes and more. There are plenty of multi-day treks in Bariloche, but if you’re keen to base yourself in the town and take day hikes from Bariloche instead – then this blog post is for you.

We recently hiked to Refugio Frey and Laguna Toncek and we think this is the ultimate day hike from Bariloche. If you choose only one hike from Bariloche, make it this one!

The ultimate day hike from Bariloche

If you’re visiting Bariloche and looking for a day hike – we think the hike to Refugio Lopez and Laguna Toncek is the ultimate one to choose. From wild flowers, to extraordinary lakes and jaw dropping mountains – the hike has it all.

From the start, the hike offers fantastic views across Lago Guittirez as the trail slowly meanders above the lake. Soon, the climb beings and you start to enter the spectacular Patagonia mountains. A very self-contained hike, there and back, it’s a really easy one to navigate without much thought. For me, I love that kind of hike because I can switch off and just enjoy the walking.

This is a challenging but, oh so rewarding, hike. I would challenge anyone not to have the biggest grin on their face when they finally reach the top! Although this is commonly called the “Refugio Frey” hike, really I think it should be more about reaching Laguna Toncek – a perfectly formed lake surrounded by mountains. When you reach the summit on a hot day, the lake is waiting for you to dive (or dip) in to it’s cool waters. Or, stay safely on land enjoying a picnic with a view!

You’ll find that this is a popular hike, which makes it feel safe and sociable. A great hike to do solo or with a friend. Once at the top, you can meet and chat to other hikers hanging around the Refugio. A fun gathering of souls in the mountains.

If you head out early in the morning, you can beat the heat and be back in time for happy hour in Bariloche.

Key facts about this day hike

ALL THE DETAILS ABOUT THIS BARILOCHE DAY HIKE

Here are all the details to help you enjoy this wonderful day hike from Bariloche to Refugio Frey and Laguna Tocek.

How to get to the start of the Refugio Frey hike Bariloche

The start point of the trail is in Catedral Alta Patagonia Ski Centre, which is found in the small mountain area of Vila Catedral Cerro. In the winter this is a ski area and in the summer it is a base for trekkers exploring this area.

From Bariloche, it takes around 25 minutes by car and is an easy drive. You can also take Bus number 55 from the centre of town to the ski area. Stay on to the last stop – Villa Catedral. The bus runs every two hours and takes 55 minutes, so a bit of forward planning is required.

Where to park for the Refugio Frey hike from Bariloche

Parking at the ski centre by the base of the trail is free. The best place to park is in the large car park – found here. There is also a second car park, found at the end of a dirt road at the back end of town – it’s possible to park here too, but the main car park is nearer to the trail and easier to get to by car too.

How to navigate to Refugio Frey Bariloche?

The trail is very easy to navigate. From the carpark – look for signs for “Frey” or “Refugio Frey” and follow from there. We used All Trails – this map specifically – to check our progress, but we didn’t really need it to navigate. There are sign posts along the trail, and during the summer you’ll be able to follow other hikers too.

There was one place where some hikers get a little confused (picture below). This is just before the steep climb up to Refugio Frey starts. Follow the blue marks to climb up the rocks to the right and over onto the path. Its possible to climb to the left (a more direct route) but there is a steep drop to the left and therefore this short cut is not advisable.

How long is the hike to Refugio Frey Bariloche

The hike from Cerro Catedral to Refugio Frey and back is 11.7miles or around 18/19km. So, you can expect to walk around 9 kms or so each way.

How difficult is the hike to Refugio Frey Bariloche

The first 60% is fairly easy – the biggest challenge is a few rocks to clamber over. The last 40% of the hike up to Refugio Frey is more challenging as it involves steep climbs. Refugio Frey is found at 1,700m altitude, that’s 5577feet. The total elevation gain for the walk is 2,500ft, of which 2000ft is in the last 40% of the hike.

Overall, of the hikes in the area we would describe this as Moderate Difficulty. The hike to Refugio Frey requires sure footedness and a reasonable level of fitness.

What is the terrain like on the hike to Refugio Frey?

The majority of the hike is on sandy paths, towards the top there are more rocks to clamber over. You’ll also walk through forests too. There are no steep drops (unless you go off trail) and the path feels fairly safe.

How long does the hike to Refugio Frey take

The recommended time to walk is four hours to get up to Refugio Frey and three hours to come down. It took us two hours forty minutes to hike up and two hours fifteen minutes to get down. Everyone will walk at their own pace – but if you’re not used to hiking or you want to take it easy, allow seven hours (without breaks) – as well as some time to enjoy your time at the top.

Where to get supplies for the Refugio Frey hike Bariloche?

We recommend getting supplies in Bariloche before you head out on the hike. Refugio Frey serves dinner for guests staying overnight or camping, but as far as we could tell it does not sell food and drinks during the day to hikers. There is however a toilet hikers can use in the refuge.

There are shops/ cafes at Cerro Catedral ski area, but they tend not to be open early in the morning. However, you can call in after your hike for a very well deserved cold drink!

What you need to know before hiking to Refugio Frey Bariloche

The hike to Refugio Frey is not easy – we would describe it as moderately challenging. Be sure to dress appropriately for the weather, pack supplies and leave yourself enough time. We’ve heard of lots of people starting to walk to Refugio Frey at around 17:00 and not arriving until dark – don’t underestimate how long it may take you given how steep the trail is at the end.

Much of the trail is in full sun – see note on what to pack below. But if you find it hard to walk in the heat, avoid this hike on hot days, or head out early in the morning.

As per local rules, you are supposed to register with the authorities to confirm you are trekking in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. You can do that here (it doesn’t take long and is free to do this.)

Finally, do note, unless you are experienced in mountaineering in the winter – this is a hike to do in summer months only. The fact that the hike starts in a ski centre should be a bit of a giveaway!

Are hiking boots or trainers best for the hike to Refugio Frey Bariloche?

I walked to Refugio Frey in my hiking boots (Nortiv 8 Armadillo) and felt these were perfect for the hike. Hiking boots gave me more confidence climbing over rocks and with the dusty/ sandy surfaces. John walked in trail shoes (Hoka Speed Goat 5s) and was happy in these too. Most people wear hiking boots but we saw plenty of people in simple sneakers too.

What to take with you to hike to Refugio Frey Bariloche

Here’s what I packed for my day hike to Refugio Frey Bariloche.

• Sunscreen
• Hat to protect you from the sun
• A layer or too in case the weather changes
• Plenty of drinking water (we got through 2 litres each)
• Swimming stuff and a small towel in case you want to enjoy the lake at the top
• A picnic lunch to enjoy at the top!

Can you swim in Laguna Toncek?

One of the best bits about this hike is the opportunity to swim. There are a few spots / opportunities to swim on the way up, but I’d recommend waiting until reaching the beautiful Laguna Toncek.

You can swim in Laguna Toncek but expect it to be quite a bracing swim! I opted for a short dip and it was absolutely glorious.

Can you stay overnight in Refugio Frey Bariloche?

If you don’t want to do the hike there and back in one day, you can stay overnight in Refugio Frey. There are forty beds available but you must book in advance and let the Refuge know you are coming. This is a really popular hike and places do get booked up.

You can book a few days before on the website, or email them further in advance (although I tried to do this and the email failed.) You need to take a sleeping bag with you if you plan to stay in the refuge. It costs 24,000 Pesos per person, and you can also request dinner and breakfast at an additional charge.

It is also possible to camp at Refugio Frey – the cost is 100 pesos per pitch. Again, this must be booked in advance.

There are more hikes from Refugio Frey and it’s a popular choice to do a multi-day trek. You can find more maps on All Trails to help you create a multi-day hike. But it is recommended to book a tour with an experienced guide.

Where to next in Argentina?

You can find our guides to travelling in Argentina below:

• Buenos Aires – a three day itinerary
• Best things to do in Palermo, Buenos Aires
• Dining at Don Julio restaurant in Buenos Aires
• Where to stay in Buenos Aires
• Where to stay in Mendoza
• Our experience of staying in a wine hotel in Mendoza
• Wine cycling in Mendoza – a top experience
• Best hikes in Bariloche
• Best hikes & things to do in El Chalten
• Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier – a guide
• Driving in Argentina: A guide

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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