LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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OUR NINE DAY ITINERARY FOR THE DRY STONE ROUTE (GR221) MALLORCA.

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The GR221 – Mallorca’s famed “Dry Stone Route”- is a spectacular long-distance trail that winds its way for roughly 99 miles (159km) across the Serra de Tramuntana. It’s a route defined by dramatic coastal views, ancient stone paths, and daily elevation changes that keep things “interesting” from start to finish.

While there are several ways to divide the stages, your itinerary is naturally shaped by where accommodation is available – particularly if, like us, you want to stay in the mountain refuges along the way.

We chose to complete the GR221 over nine days, which, for us, struck the perfect balance between challenge and enjoyment. It allowed for some longer, more demanding days, balanced with shorter, more relaxed stages to recover and properly take in the scenery.

Our 9 day itinerary for the GR221

When planning our route, we made three key decisions:

• We wanted variation in pace, with longer days followed by shorter recovery days;
• We prioritised staying in GR221 refuges, rather than private hotels, to fully experience the trail (and cut costs);
• We opted for the full coast-to-coast route, starting in Port d’Andratx and finishing in Port de Pollença, rather than the slightly shorter inland variation.

With those choices in mind, this is the nine-day itinerary we designed, and loved.

• Day 1: Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm 5.8mi/9.5km
• Day 2: Sant Elm to Estellencs 16.6mi/ 27km
• Day 3: Estellencs to Esporles 9mi/ 14.5km
• Day 4: Esporles to Deia (Refugi Can Boi) 15mi/24km
• Day 5: Deia to Muleta (via Port Soller) 8.7mi/14km distance
• Day 6: Muleta to Refugi Tossals Verds 17.2mi/27.5km
• Day 7: Refugi Tossals Verdes to Lluc (Refugi Son Amer) 9.7mi/15.5km
• Day 8: Lluc to Pollença 11mi/ 18km
• Day 9: Pollença to Port de Pollença 4.3mi/7km

Tip: If you’re planning to stay in private accommodation, you’ll have far more flexibility, especially in beautiful villages like Deià, Valldemossa and Sóller. You can find our guide to where to stay here.

Day 1: Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm

KEY DETAILS: 5.8mi/9.5km distance, 1257ft/383m elevation gain, 2-3 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Clear signage right from the start makes for a reassuring beginning
• Atmospheric climbing through pine forests
• First sweeping views of the coastline
• Sant Elm is a beautiful seaside village -sunset over Sa Dragonera is unforgettable.

CHALLENGES:

The descent into Sant Elm is surprisingly tricky-allow extra time

AMENITIES:

Plenty in both Port d’Andratx and Sant Elm; none en route.

ACCOMMODATION:

Private accommodation only. We stayed at Hostal Dragonera (lovely hotel with a terrace and sea views). An alternative would be Universal Hotel Aquamarin.

Tip: we took the bus directly to Port d’Andratx from Palma. The number 101 runs regularly.

Day 2: Sant Elm to Estellencs

KEY DETAILS: 16.6mi/ 27km distance, 4377ft/1334m elevation gain, 8-10 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Watching Sa Dragonera shrink into the distance as you climb
• Panoramic views from Es Castellet at around 2,500ft
• The sheer relief (and joy) of arriving in Estellencs
• In town, Bar sa Tanca is well worth a visit – fantastic pasta dishes and tiramisu.

CHALLENGES:

• Early scrambling and steep climbs (1.5–2.5 miles in)
• Sustained elevation gain between miles 7–11

AMENITIES: Amenities in Sant Elm, but pack a picnic as there’s nothing until Estellencs.

ACCOMMODATION:

There are three hotels in Estellencs. We opted for Hotel Maristel and could not have been more impressed – fantastic rooms and the breakfast is out of this world. Sa Plana Petit Hotel and Hotel Nord Boutique are alternative choices.

Day 3: Estellencs to Esporles

KEY DETAILS: 9mi/ 14.5km distance, 2510ft/765m elevation gain, 6-8 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• The charming village of Banyalbufar, perfect for a rest stop
• The lively atmosphere in Esporles, full of hikers and cyclists

CHALLENGES:

• A deceptively tough day despite the shorter distance
• Exposed road climb out of Banyalbufar with little shade

AMENITIES: Amenities in Estellencs and Esporles. Half way through the route is the village of Banyalbafur, where there are cafes and a water fountain (outside the church.)

ACCOMMODATION: We stayed at Sa Fita Backpackers, a hostel which mainly serves hikers. It is comfortable, friendly and has a great garden. S´Hostal d´Esporles is an alternative if you’re looking for private accommodation.

Day 4: Esporles to Deia (Refugi Can Boi)

KEY DETAILS: 15mi/24km distance, 4633ft/1412m elevation gain, 8-10 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Valldemossa – beautiful but busy
• Spectacular views from Puig Gros (perfect lunch spot)
• The descent into Deià is truly special.

CHALLENGES:

• A long, demanding day with sustained climbing
• Two major ascents and a surprisingly technical final descent (it took us two hours).

AMENITIES: Amenities in Esporles (lovely bakeries and cafes open early), Valdemossa village is on route (plenty of amenities) and the route finishes just outside of Deia (small supermarket and restaurants available if you’re not eating at the refuge.)

ACCOMMODATION:

We stayed at Refuge Can Boi, which is a 10 minute walk to Deia. In the village itself, there are private hotels – Hostal Villa Verde (budget friendly), Es Moli (fancy) and La Residencia (super fancy).

Day 5: Deia to Muleta (via Port de Soller)

KEY DETAILS: 8.7mi/14km distance, 1257ft/383m elevation gain, 3-4 hours.

There are a few options today. You can cut the coast entirely and walk directly to Soller. You can choose to take a trail directly to Refuge Muleta, or walk into Port de Soller. We chose to walk to Port de Soller, spend the afternoon on the beach and then walk along the coastal road to the refuge when we were ready to check in.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Shaded woodland walking – an easier, more relaxed day
• First view of Port de Sóller’s horseshoe bay
• Afternoon at the beach
• Sunset at Refugi Muleta- one of the best of the trip

AMENITIES: A small supermarket in Deia opens early. Plenty of amenities in Port de Soller.

ACCOMMODATION:

We stayed in Refuge Muleta – it has a stunning location next to the lighthouse on Muleta cliffs.

It is also possible to stay in private accommodation in Port de Soller (15 minutes walk from the refuge.) Sa Caleta, Pure Salt Port de Soller and Hotel Miramar are all well reviewed and well located.

Day 6: Muleta to Refugi Tossals Verds

KEY DETAILS: 17.2mi/27.5km distance, 4541ft/1384m elevation gain, 8-9 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Coffee stop in Sóller, watching the historic tram roll in
• Views over the Cúber reservoir
• The peaceful, remote setting of Tossals Verds refuge.

Tip: if you wanted to shorten the day, you could take the historic tram (or cheaper bus) to Soller from Port de Soller. We saw a few hikers doing this.

CHALLENGES:

• Long climb out of Sóller, often exposed
• Optional tougher route over Puig des Tossals Verds (we avoided this)

AMENITIES: Amenties in Port de Soller (if walking this way) and in Soller (3 miles into the day.) After Soller, nothing until reaching the refuge.

ACCOMMODATION:

Tossals Verds refuge is stunning, it felt like a total privilege to stay there. No private alternatives in the area.

Day 7: Refugi Tossals Verds to Lluc (Refugi Son Amer)

KEY DETAILS: 9.7mi/15.5km distance, 3182ft/969m elevation gain, 6-7 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Shaded morning walking
• Exploring Lluc sanctuary and its botanical gardens
• Excellent facilities at Son Amer

CHALLENGES:

• The initial climb out of Tossals Verds is tough and climbing continues for 4.5 miles.

AMENITIES: No amenities until reaching cafes in Lluc (1km from Son Amer).

ACCOMMODATION:

The refuge of Son Amer is lovely, probably the most modern of the refuges on the GR221. There are no other options in the area – the sanctuary at Lluc requires a two night stay so not an option for most hikers.

Day 8: (Refugi Son Amer) Lluc to Pollença

KEY DETAILS: 11mi/ 18km distance, 991ft/302m elevation gain, 5-6 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• An easy and relaxing day of walking, often through oak forests. Some climbing, but limited.

CHALLENGES:

• After the descent, you reach a section on road (quiet and safe) but it can be exposed to the sun.

AMENITIES: No amenities (aside from breakfast at the refuge) until reaching Pollença (which has everything you need.)

ACCOMMODATION:

The refuge (Ponta Roma) is on the outskirts of Pollença. An easy stroll into town. If we are honest, it wasn’t our favourite refuge, although the location is great. If you have the budget, there are hotels in town, such as Son Sant Jordi and L’Host Boutique Rooms.

Day 9: Pollença to Port de Pollença

KEY DETAILS: 4.3mi/7km distance, 100ft/30m elevation gain (approx), 1-2 hours.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS:

• Crossing the Roman Bridge
• Reaching the sea- your journey’s end

CHALLENGES:

A fairly unremarkable, flat walk overall

AMENITIES: Amenities in both towns and supermarkets on route.

ACCOMMODATION:

Options include Pension Bellavista (budget), Hotel Sis Pins (mid-range) and Hoposa Uyal (luxury).

Tip: Buses run regularly from Port de Pollenca to Palma de Mallorca.

What would I change?

If we were to walk the GR221 again, we’d consider two small tweaks:

• Break up Day 2 by staying at Finca Ses Fontanelles (a private refuge between Sant Elm and Estellencs), making the early stages more manageable
• Combine Days 8 and 9, walking from Lluc straight to Port de Pollença in one go

That said, stopping in Pollença gave us time to enjoy the town properly- so it’s a trade-off worth considering.

More GR221 guides

• Where to stay on the GR221
• What to expect from the refuges
• Packing for the GR221
• FAQs guide for the GR221

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Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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