LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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A DETAILED KISSAMOS, CRETE GUIDE: WHERE TO STAY, EAT & EXPLORE.

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Most people know Kissamos as the gateway to Balos Lagoon or Elafonissi Beach. But rather than stopping by for a day or two, we decided to make it one of our main bases in Crete and ended up spending much longer here than we’d planned.

Our itinerary balanced the busier towns of Chania and Rethymno with the slower pace of Kissamos. Some days revolved around the beach, with long, leisurely lunches. Others were spent exploring Crete’s west coast, using Kissamos as our jumping-off point. Evenings were lively enough, with buzzing tavernas and bars, but never felt crowded or rowdy.

For us, it struck the perfect balance. Kissamos is authentic, friendly and refreshingly unpretentious. It doesn’t feel like a purpose-built resort, just a real town with everything visitors need. We loved finding ourselves shoulder to shoulder with locals, whether we were grabbing a coffee in the morning or settling into a taverna for dinner.

Whether you’re planning to base yourself here for a few nights or simply wondering if it’s worth visiting, here’s everything you need to know about Kissamos, based on our first-hand experience.

Why we loved Kissamos

Kissamos struck the perfect balance between convenience and authenticity. It has everything you need for a relaxing holiday without feeling properly touristy. It doesn’t have a ton of high rise hotels, or coaches filled with package holiday makers arriving – it attracts a much more independent crowd.

Its biggest advantage is undoubtedly its location. Sitting on Crete’s north-west coast, it’s an ideal base for exploring the region, with Balos, Elafonissi, Falasarna and Chania all within easy reach.

Despite being a relatively small town, Kissamos has two distinct centres. The seafront promenade is where you’ll find waterfront tavernas, cocktail bars and evening atmosphere, while the town centre, just a five-minute walk inland, offers bakeries, cafés, shops and restaurants that feel much more low key.

We also loved how easy it was to get around. Everything is walkable, from the beaches to the restaurants, making it wonderfully convenient if you don’t want to drive every day.

And then there’s Mavros Molos Beach. Unlike many resort beaches, sunbeds are free when ordering from nearby cafés, the water is generally calm and shallow, and there are watersports available if you fancy something more active.

Most of all, Kissamos simply has a lovely atmosphere. The locals were incredibly welcoming, evenings were lively without being hectic, and it felt exactly like the relaxed Greek island escape we’d been hoping for.

Things to do in Kissamos

Kissamos is not a place packed with attractions, but that’s exactly its appeal. The best things to do here are slow, simple, and centred around the sea and everyday Cretan life.

1/ Relax at Mavros Molos Beach

This is the main beach in Kissamos and easily the most enjoyable place to spend time. It’s a sandy bay with calm, shallow water that’s perfect for swimming.

You can rent sunbeds, or seek out the free ones at Maria Beach Bar or Roubini Beach Bar. Both venues are lovely and offer free beds when you order from the beachfront cafés. Beach service is available, or you can dine in. It’s ideal for a full beach day without needing to move far.

Tip – during our stay in Kissamos, we had a few windy days. We did find when the wind was strong that the beach would be exposed to the weather. If you experience high winds in Kissamos, it is usually best to take a day trip to somewhere like Falasarna which can be more sheltered.

2/ Walk the seafront promenade at sunset

When we first arrived to Kissamos in the afternoon, we were concerned that it might be a little too quiet for us. There were only a handful of people enjoying lunch at the seafront tavernas. We needn’t have been worried.

In the evening, the waterfront transforms. Locals come out for dinner, families stroll along the promenade, and the light over the sea becomes soft pink. It becomes a lovely vibrant atmosphere that we just wanted to soak up every night. And the sunsets are also quite spectacular from the promenade.

3/ Visit the Kissamos Archaeological Museum

A small but worthwhile stop if you’re curious about the area’s history. It features Roman artefacts, mosaics and exhibits that reflect Kissamos’ past as an important ancient settlement. Tickets are €5 and keep an eye out on opening hours, it does tend to close in the afternoon.

4/ Enjoy watersports or paddleboarding

During the summer months, you’ll find paddleboards, pedal boats and other watersports available directly from the beach. The water is usually calm enough for beginners, making it a fun and easy activity. Head to Roubini where you can rent various craft from the friendly staff.

5/ Take a slow brunch overlooking the sea

One of the best parts of staying here is the pace of mornings. I loved nothing more than waking up early, strolling to one of two Cafés – Breezes and Babel, and taking a long breakfast overlooking the sea.

6/ Explore the inland town centre

Just a few minutes’ walk from the coast, Kissamos town feels more local and lived-in. This is where you’ll find bakeries, small shops, cafés and quieter streets away from the promenade.

7/ Have a long seafood lunch by the water

Lunch is a highlight in Kissamos. Expect grilled fish, Greek salads, fried courgettes and cold beer, usually served slowly and without rush – especially at seaside tavernas. On the promenade, try 1960 Restaurant, or Taverna Stimadoris if you fancy a stroll (it’s 1km or so along the coast.)

8/ Experience the evening restaurant scene

Dinner along the promenade is one of the surprises of Kissamos. It’s lively but never chaotic, with everything from traditional tavernas to modern cocktail bars and casual souvlaki spots.

Beaches in Kissamos

Kissamos has two main beaches: Mavros Molos and Livadia Beach.

Many hotels are located along Livadia Beach. It’s pleasant enough for a swim, but we found it lacked the atmosphere of Mavros Molos and could be noticeably windier.

We spent almost all of our beach time at Mavros Molos (also referred to as Plaka), a sheltered bay with calm water, comfortable sun loungers, beach cafés and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. If you’re only choosing one beach in Kissamos, we’d recommend heading here.

Where to eat in Kissamos

One of the things that we enjoyed about staying in Kissamos, is how many fantastic places to eat there are. Kissamos is particularly unique as it has two distinct areas – both with decent restaurants.

Most diners head to the promenade by the sea for the evening – here you’ll find a fab selection of tavernas and bars. But the town centre of Kissamos, a 5 minute walk inland, also has a few good options – for lunch or dinner. In fact, if it’s windy down by the sea, the town centre locations can be preferable.

Brunch

For breakfast, or brunch, it is quite hard to beat Breezes or Babel. Both cafes have extensive breakfast menus including classics like Eggs Benedict, various omelettes and sweeter treats like pancakes. I cannot think of anything better than a lazy brunch overlooking the sea.

In town, Sweet House, is a popular spot for pancakes, waffles or crepes. Whilst Papadakis Bakery is a great spot for a quick bite, with seats outside or takeaway.

Lunch

For lunch in the summer, seek out sea views. 1960 Restaurant occupies a lovely location on the promenade and is ideal for fish lovers. If you don’t want to go too far from your sun lounger, pick one of the restaurants along Plaka – Roubini is relaxed and casual, whilst Molos is a little fancier. A short walk from the beach brings you to Taverna Stimadoris – popular with locals and tourists.

Dinner

When we first arrived in Kissamos in the afternoon, we were worried that it was going to be too quiet. But the promenade comes alive in the best possible way by night. And when it comes to choosing somewhere for supper, it’s honestly so difficult – we loved Kouzoumama for location on the water and unique dishes, The Cellar for a taverna vibe, Ya Souvlaki for casual bites and Babel for drinks leading into pizza, pasta or sharing plates.

Best day trips from Kissamos

One of the main reasons we chose to stay in Kissamos, is that it makes an excellent base from which to explore the west of Crete. Here are some of the best and easiest day trips to take.

1/ Balos Lagoon

One of the most iconic landscapes in Greece. Balos is a wild, lagoon-style beach with incredibly shallow turquoise water and dramatic surroundings. You can reach it either by boat from Kissamos port or by driving part of the way and hiking down.

We actually chose to skip visiting Balos after seeing the size of the boats that take visitors to the lagoon. We were concerned it might feel too crowded for our tastes. That said, it remains one of the most popular attractions in western Crete, and it’s easy to see why.

If you favour a more relaxed experience, you can book a catamaran trip to Balos, which avoids the larger boats.

2/ Elafonissi Beach

Famous for its pink-tinged sand and crystal-clear, shallow water. It’s a protected nature area and feels almost tropical on a calm day. The drive from Kissamos takes around 1.5–2 hours through scenic mountain roads, making it a full-day trip. You can also take a bus direct from Kissamos, which is what we opted for. Given how challenging the drive is on winding roads, we were glad to be able to relax on the bus instead!

Find our guide to visiting Elafonissi here.

3/ Falasarna Beach

A wide, open beach with soft sand and some of the best sunsets in western Crete. Unlike Balos and Elafonissi, it’s easier to access and less rugged, so it works well for a more relaxed beach day with facilities, beach bars and plenty of space.

We beaches here are world-class, and swimming in the water felt almost transformative. It really is glorious. The bus takes around 25 minutes from Kissamos and services run regularly throughout the summer.

4/ Kolymvari Village

A quieter coastal village just east of Kissamos, known for its laid-back feel and traditional tavernas. It’s a good stop for a slow lunch or a break from busier beach days. We chose to visit as we wanted to combine a beach afternoon with a morning spent at the Mother of God Odigitria Gonia Monastery, for a touch of culture.

5/ Chania Old Town

Around 40 minutes away (60 by bus), Chania is one of the most beautiful towns in Crete. The Venetian harbour, narrow streets and waterfront restaurants make it perfect for an afternoon or evening trip. It’s especially atmospheric at sunset when the old harbour lights switch on and people start to promenade.

Buses between Kissamos and Chania run regularly, usually once an hour or so in the summer.

You can find our detailed guide to the 16 best things to do in Chania here.

Tip: We chose not to hire a car as we wanted to keep things blissfully simple. But, if you have a car, there’s a lot more to discover from Kissamos. For example Chrysoskalitissa Monastery, Sfinari and the Archaeological Site of Rokka.

Getting to Kissamos

Kissamos sits around 40 minutes west of Chania and is easy to reach by car via the main highway.

If you’re flying into Crete, Chania International Airport is the closest airport, around an hour away by road.

Regular buses also connect Chania and Kissamos throughout the day, making it possible to visit without hiring a car. We chose not to hire a car, and whilst we perhaps missed out on visiting a few inland areas, we were able to take a number of wonderful day trips using the bus.

Where to stay in Kissamos

Accommodation in Kissamos is spread along the coastline, giving you two slightly different experiences.

Beachfront hotels offer peace and direct access to the sea but can be a little removed from restaurants and nightlife. Staying close to the promenade, meanwhile, means everything is within easy walking distance, making it our preferred option if you enjoy heading out for dinner each evening.

Our recommendations are:

BUDGET: Argo Rooms-Papadakis – we stayed here and loved the easy access to promenade and sea views.

MID-RANGE: Maria Beach Hotel or Christina Beach Hotel (includes a swimming pool.) Both properties are beachfront.

LUXURY: Tella Thera, a Member of Design Hotels or Sarana Suites Crete.

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Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

British travel writer and long-distance hiker, native to Kent. Emma has walked the Camino de Santiago more than ten times, completed trails across Europe from the Corfu Trail to the Fisherman’s Trail, and covered thousands of kilometres on foot. She always writes from first-hand experience. Her goal? Inspire just one person to go on their first long-distance hike.

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