LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

---

THE LAUGAVEGUR TRAIL: WHAT WE LIKED & DIDN’T LIKE.

---

The Laugavegur Trail had been on our hiking wish list for years. Between the colourful rhyolite mountains, steaming geothermal valleys and black volcanic deserts, it looked unlike anywhere we’d ever walked before. Add in Iceland’s famously unpredictable weather and a few icy river crossings, and it seemed to have all the ingredients for a memorable adventure.

After spending four days walking the trail, we can safely say it lived up to the hype. The scenery is every bit as spectacular as the photos suggest, and despite only being around 55 kilometres long, it somehow feels like a much bigger adventure than many longer-distance hikes we’ve completed. It’s challenging enough to feel like a real achievement, but straightforward enough that it’s accessible to most hikers with a decent level of fitness and the right preparation.

That said, no trail is perfect. There were a few things we hadn’t expected before arriving in Iceland, and a couple of aspects that we found more difficult than we’d anticipated. None of them would stop us from recommending the Laugavegur, but we think they’re worth knowing before you start planning your own trip.

So, if you’re wondering whether the Laugavegur is worth the hype, here are the things we loved about the hike, along with a few things we didn’t enjoy quite as much.

What we liked about the Laugavegur

Here’s everything we loved about this spectacular Icelanic hike:

The scenery and terrain

The scenery is undoubtedly the biggest draw of the Laugavegur Trail, and it completely lived up to our expectations. What surprised us most was just how much variety is packed into such a short route. Over the course of four days, the landscape changes constantly, and each section feels completely different from the last.

One moment you’re walking through colourful rhyolite mountains, with bright reds, yellows and greens covering the hillsides, and the next you’re crossing vast black volcanic deserts that feel almost like another planet. Add in snowfields, steaming geothermal areas, glacial rivers and the lush green valleys around Thórsmörk, and it feels hard to believe all of this exists within such a small part of Iceland.

We’ve walked plenty of beautiful trails, but the Laugavegur has a unique quality that makes it stand out. The landscape feels wild and untouched, and there were many moments where we stopped simply because we couldn’t quite believe what we were looking at.

Unique experience

Part of what makes the Laugavegur so memorable is that it feels unlike any other hike we’ve done.

There are plenty of spectacular long-distance trails around the world, but walking through Iceland’s Highlands has a very different feeling. The combination of volcanic landscapes, unpredictable weather and the sense of remoteness makes the whole experience feel like a proper adventure.

We walked in June and still encountered snowfields along the route, which definitely wasn’t something we’d expected. Crossing them, surrounded by mountains and with very few signs of civilisation around us, was one of those moments that makes you appreciate why you came all the way to Iceland in the first place.

It isn’t just a walk from A to B. The landscape, the conditions and the feeling of being somewhere completely different all combine to make it a genuinely memorable experience.

Not crowded

We walked in June, almost right at the start of the hiking season, so it’s worth mentioning that our experience may not reflect what the trail is like during the busiest months of July and August.

That said, we were pleasantly surprised by how uncrowded the Laugavegur felt. We occasionally passed larger organised groups, but for the most part we were able to walk at our own pace with plenty of peace and quiet around us.

It felt like a good balance. We weren’t completely alone in the wilderness, which was reassuring given the unpredictable weather and challenging terrain, but we also never felt like we were hiking in a crowd.

Social hike

Although the Laugavegur isn’t a particularly crowded trail, it is surprisingly sociable.

It isn’t comparable to something like the Camino de Santiago, where meeting people is one of the defining parts of the experience, but we found it easy to strike up conversations with other hikers along the route. Most evenings, there was a relaxed atmosphere at the campsites, with people chatting briefly about their day, sharing weather updates and comparing notes on what was ahead.

We stayed one night in a mountain refuge, and this was definitely the most social evening of the trip. People were cooking together, playing games and spending time chatting after a long day of walking.

Personally, we really liked the balance. We enjoyed having some social interaction at the end of the day, but we also appreciated being able to retreat to our little tent and have our own space. If you’re someone who wants a more communal hiking experience, staying in the mountain huts is probably the better option.

Challenging hiking

John and I actually disagreed about whether this belonged in the “things we liked” or “things we didn’t like” section. If I’m completely honest, I think it’s only something I appreciated after finishing the trail.

The Laugavegur is tough.

The daily distances aren’t particularly long, but the combination of terrain and weather means you need to stay focused throughout the day. Between steep climbs, tricky descents, river crossings, snowfields and strong winds, there aren’t many sections where you can completely switch off and walk on autopilot.

By the time we reached camp each afternoon, we were usually exhausted. However, that was also part of what made the experience so rewarding. The trail feels like a proper adventure rather than simply a scenic walk, and finishing it from start to finish was something we felt genuinely proud of.

Although it’s a relatively short hike, the Laugavegur has the feeling of a much bigger expedition. Trekking through snowfields in Iceland’s Highlands definitely wasn’t something we had expected, but it ended up being one of the highlights.

Trail markings

One thing we really appreciated about the Laugavegur was how easy it was to follow.

The route is well established, and the trail markings are generally excellent. The coloured markers make navigation straightforward, even across the more open sections where there isn’t an obvious path to follow.

The distance markers between campsites are also incredibly helpful, especially during those moments when you’re tired and hoping the next stop appears around the corner.

Tip: an app or map is still useful though. The weather can come in quickly and hide all the markers.

Mountain lodges

The mountain lodges are one of the things that make the Laugavegur such an accessible multi-day hike.

We chose to camp for most of the route, but we spent one night in a mountain refuge and really appreciated the comfort they provided. After a long day outside in Icelandic weather, having somewhere warm to cook, dry your gear and socialise with other hikers is a real luxury.

The huts are not cheap, and they are definitely not luxury accommodation, but they provide everything you need after a demanding day on the trail. For those who don’t want to carry camping equipment, they also make the Laugavegur a much lighter and simpler hiking experience.

Camping options

One of our favourite things about the Laugavegur is the flexibility that camping provides.

At every mountain lodge along the route, there is an adjacent campsite, for us, that simplicity was a huge advantage. And you also can’t reserve camping space, just turn up and pitch.

The campsites themselves are basic, but they provide everything you need. There are toilets, sinks, fresh water and picnic tables, although facilities vary between locations. Some campsites have very little shelter from the wind, so choosing the right tent is important.

The one thing to be aware of is that camping doesn’t come with the same comforts as staying in the huts. There are no indoor cooking areas or warm communal spaces for campers, so you need to be prepared to spend your evenings outside, whatever the weather brings.

You can find our guide to camping on the Laugavegur here.

Inexpensive (for Iceland)

The Laugavegur is not a cheap hike, especially compared with many European long-distance trails. However, in the context of travelling in Iceland, it is actually one of the more affordable ways to experience the country.

The biggest costs are transport to and from the Highlands, food and accommodation. The mountain huts are expensive, costing around 9,500 ISK per night, but camping is considerably cheaper at around 3,000–3,200 ISK per person.

If you camp throughout and keep your food simple, it is possible to complete the trail for much less than you might initially expect. The ability to avoid expensive accommodation is a big advantage, particularly given how costly Iceland can be.

Logistics are easy

Before visiting, we thought organising the Laugavegur would be more complicated than it actually was.

There are definitely a few things that require planning. The biggest challenge is preparing your food, as there are no shops or resupply points along the route. You also need to organise transport into and out of the Highlands, as the trailheads aren’t accessible by ordinary vehicle.

Once those pieces are sorted, however, the actual hike is surprisingly straightforward. The route is well established, accommodation options are clear, and there are relatively few decisions to make once you’re on the trail.

Water sources

One of the small but significant advantages of hiking in Iceland is how easy it is to access water.

At every campsite and mountain lodge, we could fill up our bottles with cold, clean drinking water, meaning we never had to worry about carrying several days’ worth of supplies.

Having completed longer hikes where water management is a major consideration, this felt like a real luxury. There’s something particularly satisfying about filling up a bottle with fresh Icelandic water after a long day of walking. Less satisfying, is washing dishes in ice cold water!

Simplicity of planning

Compared to other long-distance hikes we have walked, the Laugavegur is actually a doddle to plan. There are three key decisions to make. Whether to stay in lodges or camp. Whether to walk from Landmannalaugar to Thórsmörk or vice versa. And finally, whether to walk in three or four days.

We chose a mix of camping and one mountain lodge, we walked to Thórsmörk (as most do) and opted for four days. You can find our daily stages guide here.

What we didn’t like as much

The Laugavegur is a wonderful hike, but there are a few distinct challenges. Here’s what we didn’t quite like so much:

River crossings

One of the challenges of walking the Laugavegur trail, is crossing rivers. I cannot even try to put a positive spin on the river crossings. The water is ice cold and often fast flowing, sometimes as deep as thigh level.

We recommend packing water shoes to aid the crossings, rolling trousers up above the knees and being mindful of the river flows. Other than that, its just something that you have to get used to!

The weather

The weather is probably the most obvious challenge on the Laugavegur Trail, and it’s something you need to be prepared for before setting off.

Iceland’s weather can change incredibly quickly. One minute you can be walking in sunshine, and the next you’re battling strong winds, rain or even snow. When we walked the route in June, we experienced a little bit of everything, including snow on parts of the trail.

Of course, complaining about the weather in Iceland feels a little pointless. Unpredictable conditions are part of what makes the landscape so dramatic, and the weather is something you simply have to accept rather than fight against.

That said, it does add an extra layer of difficulty to the hike. The right gear makes a huge difference, particularly a tent that can handle strong winds and plenty of layers so you can adapt quickly when conditions change. We definitely wouldn’t recommend approaching this trail assuming you’ll get the perfect summer hiking weather every day.

Short trail

This is both a positive and a negative.

The fact that the Laugavegur can be completed in three or four days is part of what makes it so accessible. It doesn’t require weeks away from work or a huge commitment, which means more people can experience Iceland’s Highlands.

However, after all the excitement and preparation, it does feel like it is over surprisingly quickly.

We spent a lot of time planning the trip, organising food, booking transport and preparing our gear, only for the actual trail section to be finished within a few days. By the time we’d settled into the rhythm of hiking, it was almost time to leave.

Thankfully, this is easily solved if you have more time available. We extended our trip by walking the Hellismannaleið before starting the Laugavegur, and many hikers choose to continue from Thórsmörk onto the Fimmvörðuháls Trail towards Skógar. If you have the time, extending the adventure is something we’d definitely recommend. You can find our guide to doing this here.

Cost of showering

This is a very minor complaint in the grand scheme of things, but it did make us laugh.

Most campsites and mountain refuges along the Laugavegur have showers available, but they usually come at an additional cost. When we walked the trail, a shower would have cost somewhere in the region of €10.

For a four-day hike, this isn’t really a big deal. Going without a shower for a few days is hardly unusual when camping. However, because we had walked the Hellismannaleið beforehand, our total time without a proper shower was closer to a week, and by that point we were very ready for one.

Tip: When you arrive to Thórsmörk, if you are desperate for a shower, we recommend Volcano Huts (Húsadalur) – this campsite includes hot showers and it is peak luxury after days on the trail!

Carrying supplies

The lack of resupply points is both a blessing and a challenge.On one hand, it helps preserve the remote wilderness feeling of the trail. On the other, it means carrying everything you need for the duration of the hike, including all of your food.

Four days of food might not sound like much, but once you’ve added a tent, sleeping bag, cooking equipment and warm clothing, backpacks become heavy quickly. We also found it surprisingly difficult to pack enough calories without carrying a huge amount of extra weight.

By the final day, we were definitely looking forward to a proper meal rather than another portion of noodles or pasta.

This is one area where staying in the mountain huts can make a big difference. Although they are expensive, they remove the need to carry camping equipment and allow you to travel much lighter.

Bus cost

One of the biggest expenses associated with the Laugavegur is simply getting to and from the trail.

Because the route starts and finishes in Iceland’s Highlands, most hikers will need to use one of the Highland bus services rather than driving themselves. Return tickets can add up quickly, and transport is likely to be one of the biggest costs of the trip after accommodation.

The buses themselves are comfortable, reliable and straightforward to use, so the cost is more of a budgeting consideration than a genuine inconvenience. However, if you’re planning the hike on a tight budget, it is definitely something to factor in from the beginning.

Short season for hiking

The Laugavegur has a very short hiking window, which is something worth considering when planning your trip.

The official hiking season generally runs from late June until early September, although the exact conditions vary each year depending on snow levels and weather. We walked in June and still encountered significant snow, so earlier trips can come with a bit more uncertainty.

The advantage of hiking at the start or end of the season is that you’ll likely experience fewer people on the trail. The downside is that the conditions can be more challenging, and services such as buses and huts have a shorter operating window.

If you’re looking for the best balance between accessibility and reliable conditions, late June through August is probably the safest choice. However, there is something special about walking the trail just as the season begins, when the landscape still feels particularly wild and quiet.

The Laugavegur Trail: Our Review

So, after all that, what’s our verdict on The Laugavegur Trail?

TRAIL MARKINGS + NAVIGATION: 9/10 – trail markings on the route were incredibly helpful. And we appreciated the distance markers too. Just be sure to have a map as a backup when weather sets in.

DIFFICULTY: 9/10 – the route is tough, with steep ascents, descents and tricky terrain. All made harder by the weather.

ACCOMMODATION + AMENITIES: 8/10 – camping is available without booking ahead, whilst mountain refuges offer a little comfort. Neither option is luxurious but they provide everything you need to walk the route.

VARIETY + LANDSCAPE: 8/10 – the route has plenty of variety, each day is different. If you have time, we recommend spending a day in Landmannalaugar to see more of the colourful rock formations.

PLEASURE + LEISURE: 5/10 – this is a wilderness route – there’s very little pleasure or leisure beyond the hiking. Points for the hot springs at Landmannalaugar, the social nature of the walk and the luxury campsite in Thórsmörk.

---

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

British travel writer and long-distance hiker, native to Kent. Emma has walked the Camino de Santiago more than ten times, completed trails across Europe from the Corfu Trail to the Fisherman’s Trail, and covered thousands of kilometres on foot. She always writes from first-hand experience. Her goal? Inspire just one person to go on their first long-distance hike.

---

More Iceland Travel Guides

---