LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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THE PORTUGUESE COASTAL CAMINO OR THE CENTRAL ROUTE: WHICH SHOULD YOU WALK?

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One of my favourite topics is Camino routes. If you’ve been following us for a while, you’ll already know this! And if you’re new here, by way of a short introduction – we’ve walked more than 12 different Camino routes at this point.

I also plan Camino itineraries for clients, and one of my favourite questions to be asked is: which route should I choose?

Having walked both the Camino Central and the Camino Coastal, I can see why choosing between the two is such a difficult decision. Both routes are amazing in their own way. Whilst they share a number of similarities – they take around 10-14 days, are between 240km and 300km and end in Santiago – there are also some pretty significant differences.

And for many people, this might be the only Camino they ever walk, making the decision feel even more important!

To be totally upfront, this article focuses only on the Porto to Santiago sections of the Portuguese Camino routes. I haven’t walked from Lisbon to Porto – yet.

An overview of both routes

The Portuguese Camino is made up of a number of different routes and variants, but for the purposes of this article, we’re focusing on the two most popular ways of walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela – the Central Route and the Coastal Route.

The Central Route heads north from Porto, travelling through the Portuguese countryside and a series of beautiful towns and cities, before crossing the border into Spain at Valença. From there, you walk through Galicia, eventually arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

The Coastal Route, as the name suggests, follows the Atlantic coast for much of its journey. Although there are a few different ways to walk it – and some sections head inland – you can expect beaches, coastal paths, fishing villages and plenty of sea views.

After crossing from Portugal into Spain, the route continues along the coast until Vigo, before heading inland and eventually joining the Central Route in Pontevedra.

In very simple terms, if the idea of vineyards, historic towns and traditional Portuguese villages appeals to you, the Central Route might be the one. If you dream of waking up, putting on your walking boots and heading towards the ocean, the Coastal Route could be a better fit.

Of course, it’s not quite that simple. Both routes offer beautiful towns. Both have great food. Both have plenty of lovely scenery. And, as someone who has walked both, I can honestly say that you really can’t go terribly wrong.

But there are definitely some differences worth knowing before you decide.

What are the key differences

Here are the key differences between the Coastal Route and Central Route.

Distance & time

The two routes are very similar in terms of overall distance, although the exact number of kilometres can vary depending on which variants and paths you choose to follow.

The Central Route from Porto to Santiago is approximately 240-245km, whilst the Coastal Route is generally somewhere around 270km. However, if you include the Litoral Way and some of the other possible variants, the Coastal route can become considerably longer – potentially reaching around 300km or more.

In practical terms, both routes take approximately the same amount of time.

If you averaged around 20km per day, the Central Route could be completed in roughly 12 days, whilst the Coastal would probably require 13 or 14.

Of course, you can walk faster if you want to. We walked the Central Route in 10 days, which is entirely possible if you’re happy with some longer walking days. We completed the Coastal in a more comfortable 12 days.

That said, it’s also entirely possible to walk both routes more slowly. In fact, we’re planning to walk the Coastal Camino again later this year and will be taking our sweet old time, spending around 18 days on the route.

Terrain & walking surfaces

The terrain on the Camino Portuguese Coastal and Central routes are not vastly different. Both are fairly flat routes – which is why they are often recommended to beginners, or seniors, choosing to walk the Camino. By way of example, I opted to walk the Camino Coastal route a few years back with my mother – who may not like to be referred to as senior, but, is certainly older than she used to be.

The Coastal Camino (not including Litoral variants) is 274km – of which 51 km is on path or trail and 223km is on asphalt or pavement. Pavement can include cobblestones, as well as board walks – there are short sections of each along the way. In total, the ascent along the route is 4509m or 14793ft.

This may sound a lot, but if you compare that to something really hilly – for example, The Rheinsteig in Germany – you climb closer to 50,000ft over a similar distance.

Looking at the Camino Central Route, there are approximately 46km of trail, and 191km of asphalt or pavement. There are more cobblestones found on the Central Route than the Coastal – which is included in the figure for pavement. Over the course of 240km or so, you ascent 4343m, or 14248ft – a really similar amount to the Coastal Route.

It’s important to stress that whilst both are not significantly hilly, neither route is entirely flat. A typical day might look like 150m to 250m of climbing, which is not that noticeable.

Popularity of routes

When we first walked the Central Route in 2022, one of the reasons we chose it was that we had heard the Coastal Route was still relatively quiet.

For us, at the time, this was a really important part of our motivation to walk. We wanted to meet other pilgrims, of course, but we also wanted plenty of peaceful moments and quiet stretches of walking.

Fast forward to 2026, however, and the picture has changed somewhat.

Both routes are now incredibly popular. Behind the Camino Frances, the Central and Coastal Portuguese routes rank amongst the most walked Caminos.

And whilst the Central Route remains marginally more popular, the Coastal has become increasingly busy over the last few years.

In 2023, around 88,000 pilgrims walked the Central Route compared to approximately 52,000 on the Coastal. By 2025, the gap had narrowed considerably, with just over 100,000 walking the Central Route and around 89,000 choosing the Coastal.

The numbers are getting much closer.

Tip: Whichever route you choose, I would really recommend booking accommodation in advance if you’re walking during peak season. As both routes have become increasingly popular, it can be tricky to get a bed – particularly in May and September.

Variants

One of the biggest differences between the two routes is that the Coastal Route can get a little more complicated.

There are a few different variants and options along the way, the best known being the Litoral Way.

Technically, the Litoral is a different route rather than simply a variant of the Coastal, but most people tend to think of it as part of the same overall Camino experience.

And this is where things can get a little confusing.

The official Coastal Route leaving Porto actually starts inland. The Litoral Way, on the other hand, follows the river from Porto towards the Atlantic before continuing north alongside the coast.

By far, most pilgrims choose to follow the Litoral Way when leaving Porto. If you’re imagining beaches, sea views and boardwalks from the very beginning of your Camino, this is probably the route you’ll want to take.

There are also further opportunities to move between the Coastal and Litoral routes as you continue north, giving you a little more flexibility over how much time you spend directly alongside the sea.

The Central Route is much more straightforward.

For the most part, there is one clearly defined route, with only a couple of optional variants along the way. You’re much less likely to find yourself standing at a Camino sign, wondering which yellow arrow you were actually supposed to follow.

What are the key similarities

Here are the key similarities between the Coastal Route and the Central Route.

Start & end points

Both the central and coastal routes start in Porto and end in Santiago de Compostela. They just offer different ways of getting between the two points.

You can find a guide to the best things to do in Santiago de Compostela here.

Distance in Portugal

Every time I have walked the Portuguese Camino, there’s always one thing that sticks with me – the time in Portugal is short. It goes by so quickly and before you know it, you’ve arrived in Spain.

On the Coastal Route, the distance between Porto and Caminha (the last stop in Portugal) is 109km, whilst on the Central Route you will be walking for around 120km before reaching the end of the Portuguese road. So, both routes offer roughly 5-6 days in Portugal for most pilgrims.

Border crossing to Spain

The central route leaves Portugal in the town of Valença (Valença do Minho) and crosses into Tui, the first point of Spain. Both towns are beautiful and I found choosing which one to stay in, to be one of the hardest decisions on route. You enter Spain via a bridge, on foot. And I have to say, I think there’s something quite special about a border crossing on foot – perhaps it’s because I’m from the UK and not mainland Europe that I get so excited about this!

Conversely, the coastal Camino route leaves Portugal from the town of Caminha and arrives in Spain at A Guarda. Rather thrillingly, you get to experience a river crossing on a boat from Portugal to Spain. It takes 5-10 minutes maximum, and provides a bit of adventure to the journey.

Tip: don’t forget that Spain is one hour ahead of Portugal – so you lose an hour when you cross into Spain.

The final sections

Regardless of which route you choose, the final section of your journey will eventually start to look very similar.

The Coastal Route heads inland after Vigo and joins the Central Route in Pontevedra.

From here, both routes share the same final stretch towards Santiago, passing through Caldas de Reis and Padrón before eventually arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

This is also where you’ll probably notice the number of pilgrims increasing.

Two popular routes have now become one, and the final days can feel significantly busier than some of the earlier sections.

Tip: If you want to do something different, there is an alternative – the Spiritual Variant. This takes you back to the coast and away from Pontevedra, before merging just before Padron, therefore avoiding some of the busier stretches of the final route.

Highlights on the Coastal Camino

The Coastal Camino is probably the easier route to picture before you begin. There are beaches. There are boardwalks. There are fishing towns. And yes, there are plenty of opportunities to stop for a drink whilst looking out over the Atlantic.

That said, don’t go into it expecting to spend 12 days walking directly alongside the sea. There are sections where the route heads inland, particularly if you’re following the official Coastal Route rather than the Litoral Way.

Still, if you’re someone who feels happiest near the coast, there are some absolutely brilliant highlights along this route.

You can find a detailed daily stages guide to the Coastal Route here.

Coastal Views

Let’s start with the obvious one – the coast.

There is something really special about walking alongside the Atlantic for days at a time. Not only are the views amazing, but navigation becomes surprisingly simple – just keep the sea to your left.

I particularly love the feeling of starting the day with the sea in view. It makes even those days when your feet are hurting just a little bit more bearable.

The scenery also changes as you move north. The coastline around Porto feels very different to the wilder sections closer to the Spanish border, which helps to keep things interesting.

The bonus of walking along the coast, is that you can spend time relaxing on the beaches in the afternoon. Personally, this is something I really enjoy – especially if I can get a little dip in the sea too.

Vila Praia de Ancora

Vila Praia de Ancora was one of my favourite stops on the Coastal Camino.

It’s a relatively small coastal town, but it has a lovely, relaxed atmosphere and a beautiful beach. I arrived on a particularly nasty and rainy day, but the town felt cosy and welcoming and I loved gazing at the wild Atlantic from the safety of a Portuguese bar.

If you have the flexibility in your itinerary, I would definitely recommend considering an overnight stop here.

Oia

Oia is one of those places that I probably wouldn’t have known much about, had it not been for the Camino.

And this, for me, is one of the great things about walking these routes. You get to discover small towns and villages that might never otherwise have made it onto your travel itinerary.

Oia is a small coastal village with some really lovely views, but the standout feature is the Monastery of Santa María de Oia, which sits incredibly close to the Atlantic.

Walking through here feels quite different to some of the larger towns along the route. It’s quieter, more peaceful and has that wonderful feeling of being somewhere a little off the beaten tourist track.

On my last walk on the Camino Portuguese Coastal I didn’t get a chance to stay here, but next time I will.

Baiona

Baiona is, without doubt, one of the highlights of the entire Coastal Camino.

The town sits on a beautiful bay and has a really lovely historic centre, as well as a marina, beaches and plenty of places to eat and drink.

We absolutely loved Baiona and I think it’s one of those places where, if you have the time, you could happily add a rest day.

And, let’s be honest, one of the great advantages of walking a Camino is that occasionally giving yourself permission to stop walking for a day is entirely acceptable.

Vigo

Vigo is the largest city on the Coastal Camino and, admittedly, it can feel quite different to some of the smaller towns and villages you’ve passed through.

Depending on your feelings about cities, you may either love this or feel slightly overwhelmed by the sudden return to traffic, shops and general busyness.

Personally, I quite enjoyed it.

After several days of smaller coastal towns, Vigo offers plenty of accommodation choices, restaurants and cafes. It’s also a proper working city, which I always find interesting after spending days moving through places primarily known to pilgrims.

The walk into Vigo also provides some brilliant views over the Ría de Vigo, particularly as you approach the city.

For many people, Vigo is also a useful place to take a rest day, stock up on anything they need or simply enjoy a little more of the comforts of city life before heading back into the quieter sections of the Camino. Next time we walk this route, we will be including a “zero day” in Vigo and I can’t wait.

Highlights on the Central Camino

The Central Route feels, to me, a little more traditionally Portuguese.

Of course, that’s probably a slightly strange thing to say, given that both routes spend a good portion of their journey in Portugal. But the Central Route takes you through more inland towns, villages, vineyards and countryside, and I found that it offered more of a sense of travelling through the heart of northern Portugal.

If you’re interested in history, architecture and small towns, there is a lot to love here.

You can find our detailed daily stages guide for the Central Camino route here.

Vineyards

One of the things I really enjoyed about the Central Route was walking through the Portuguese countryside.

There are sections surrounded by vineyards, small farms and green rolling landscapes, which feel very different to the experience of walking along the Atlantic. I have one very distinct memory of watching an elderly couple tend to vines in their small vineyard, it felt really special to get a little glimpse of this.

It’s also worth mentioning that the scenery isn’t dramatic in quite the same way as the coast. You’re not going to turn a corner and suddenly find a huge ocean stretching out in front of you.

Ponte de Lima

Ponte de Lima is one of the absolute highlights of the Central Route and, in my opinion, one of the prettiest towns on either route.

The town is famous for its beautiful medieval bridge crossing the Lima River, and the historic centre is full of narrow streets, traditional buildings and plenty of places to stop for food or a drink.

It’s also a really pleasant place to arrive after a day of walking.

I would definitely recommend allowing yourself some time to explore rather than simply arriving, checking into your accommodation and heading straight to bed. Although, of course, after a long walking day, I completely understand if that’s exactly what happens.

Barcelos

Barcelos is another really lovely stop along the Central Route.

It’s perhaps best known for the colourful Barcelos rooster, which has become one of the symbols of Portugal. You’ll see versions of it everywhere – and a photo with the rooster is basically obligatory.

The town itself is well worth exploring, particularly the historic centre. It’s also a great place to stop and experience a little more Portuguese culture before continuing north.

Valença

Valença is one of my favourite towns on the entire Portuguese Camino.

The historic centre is surrounded by an enormous fortress, and walking through the old streets feels like stepping into a completely different era.

It’s also your final major stop in Portugal if you’re walking the Central Route, which gives it an added sense of occasion.

The town has plenty of accommodation and restaurants, and the views from the fortress towards the River Minho and Spain are beautiful.

As I mentioned earlier, choosing between staying in Valença or crossing the border and staying in Tui can be a surprisingly difficult decision. My honest recommendation? If your itinerary allows it, spend some proper time in both – this could be a great point for a rest day. Or pause for lunch in Valença before moving on to Tui.

Tui

Tui is the first Spanish town on the Central Route and immediately feels quite different to Valença, despite the fact that the two towns are separated by only a river.

The historic centre is beautiful, with narrow streets, old buildings and the impressive Cathedral of Santa María de Tui overlooking the town.

For me, arriving in Tui is also one of those little Camino milestones that feels more significant than you might expect. You’ve crossed into another country. Portugal is behind you. Spain is ahead.

And, perhaps most importantly, you’re now one step closer to Santiago.

Accommodation options

One thing that both routes have going for them is that there are plenty of accommodation options along the way.

You’ll find everything from traditional pilgrim albergues and hostels to guesthouses, hotels and the occasional slightly more luxurious option.

The Central Route, being marginally more established and historically more popular, has a very good range of pilgrim accommodation. But the Coastal Route has caught up quickly, and in most towns you will have a number of options to choose from. Of note, I would say there are more “boujie” private albergues on the Coastal Route – for example, those that offer bedding, beds with curtains and fancy bathrooms. But, you’ll also find a few of these on the Central Route too.

Personally, we’ve stayed in a mixture of accommodation on both routes.

As for municipal albergues, there are around the same amount -12 or 13 on each route.

For budget hikers, I would say that the central route is just marginally less expensive. Beds in private albergues on the Coastal Route often creep up to €20-25 per night, but tend to cost a little less on the Central Route.

Tip: If you’re walking during peak season, I would recommend booking in advance, particularly if you have a specific daily itinerary in mind. It’s entirely possible to be more spontaneous, especially outside of the busiest months, but the Portuguese routes are no longer the quiet secret they perhaps once were.

Can you merge the two routes?

Finally, just to add more food for thought – it’s worth considering that you can merge the two routes and walk a bit of both.

There are two popular ways to do this:

Firstly, it is possible to walk out of Porto on the Litoral Variant to Vila de Conde. From there, there is a connecting path that takes you inland and joins the central route around Moldes/ Arcos.

The second option, is to walk the Coastal Route (with Litoral Variants if you wish) all the way to Caminha and then take a water taxi to Tui, from which point you can continue on the Central Route.

Personally, I would recommend either option 1, or making a choice between the Central and Coastal and sticking with it for the route. This gives a bit more consistency. And, don’t forget – both routes merge at Pontevedra regardless.

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Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

British travel writer and long-distance hiker, native to Kent. Emma has walked the Camino de Santiago more than ten times, completed trails across Europe from the Corfu Trail to the Fisherman’s Trail, and covered thousands of kilometres on foot. She always writes from first-hand experience. Her goal? Inspire just one person to go on their first long-distance hike.

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