LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

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WALKING THE DRY STONE ROUTE: WHAT WE LIKED + DIDN’T LIKE.

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After nine days, 159km, countless climbs, a few moments of wondering what on earth we’d signed up for, and some of the best mountain scenery we’ve ever walked through, we finally reached the other side of Mallorca.

The Dry Stone Route (GR221) had been on our hiking list for years. We’d heard plenty about the dramatic scenery and beautiful villages, but also stories about difficult logistics, expensive accommodation, and challenging mountain terrain. After completing the full coast-to-coast route, we can safely say that almost all of it was true.

Overall, we absolutely loved this hike. It’s one of the most varied long-distance trails we’ve walked, combining rugged mountain paths, charming villages, hidden beaches and excellent mountain refuges. But it isn’t perfect, and there are a few things we’d have liked to know before setting off.

So, if you’re wondering whether the Dry Stone Route is worth it, here’s our honest review – everything we loved, what we didn’t enjoy quite so much, and who we think this trail is (and isn’t) for.

What we liked

There’s so much to love about the Dry Stone Route. Here’s everything we loved.

MANAGEABLE DISTANCE

The full route from Port d’Andratx to Port de Pollença is 99 miles (159km). We walked it in nine days. Some days were short, leaving plenty of time to relax in the afternoon, while others were a proper slog. Eight or nine days is about average for the full route.

One thing we really liked is that this isn’t a trail that requires taking a month off work. It’s easy to fit into a normal holiday. We walked over Easter and met plenty of people making the most of the long weekend and public holidays.

You don’t have to walk the whole route either. A shorter section, such as Sant Elm to Sóller, is a popular option and can comfortably be completed in three to five days.

ACCESSIBLE BY TRANSPORT

The official start of the route is in Port d’Andratx, which is only a short bus ride from Palma, Mallorca’s capital.

We added a couple of extra days to explore Palma because, well, why not? But we met other hikers who flew in, caught the bus and started walking on the very same day. The first stage to Sant Elm only takes a few hours, making it an ideal introduction to the trail.

At the other end, Port de Pollença has regular bus services back to Palma. If you finish earlier, in Sóller for example, public transport is just as straightforward.

MOUNTAIN REFUGES

I genuinely can’t overstate how good the GR221 mountain refuges are. Completing the route without them would be incredibly difficult.

They’re excellent value, with a bed costing around €14, and while the facilities are basic, they have everything you need to rest, shower and recharge after a long day. They also become social hubs each evening, giving the trail a real sense of community.

Most refuges offer a communal evening meal, breakfast and the option to buy a packed lunch. We were pleasantly surprised by the dinners. We’d half expected to go to bed hungry every night, but that definitely wasn’t the case.

The breakfasts and packed lunches were a little less exciting, but they were incredibly useful on the more remote stages.

You can find our detailed guide to the mountain refuges on the Dry Stone Route here.

DELIGHTFUL VILLAGES

Without doubt, one of the highlights of the Dry Stone Route is passing through the beautiful villages of the Tramuntana mountains.

Some, like Valldemossa and Sóller, are destinations in their own right and can get quite busy. Others, including Deià, Pollença and Esporles, became some of our favourite places on the island.

Each village has its own character, whether that’s historic streets, cafés, viewpoints or somewhere to enjoy a long lunch. Give yourself time to stop rather than rushing through. If your budget allows, spending an extra night in places like Valldemossa or Sóller would be well worth it.

You can find our guide to the best spots to stay along the route here.

COASTAL SECTIONS

I knew the Dry Stone Route started and finished by the sea, but I hadn’t realised we’d have several opportunities to enjoy the coast along the way.

On the first day, we walked into Sant Elm, a lovely seaside town with a sandy beach. It wasn’t quite warm enough for a swim, but watching the sunset over the sea while eating a picnic was a pretty good alternative.

Around halfway through the trail, there’s the option to detour into Port de Sóller. We struck gold with the weather and spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach with our backpacks before making the short climb up to Refuge Muleta.

NOT CROWDED

We walked over Easter, one of the busiest times of year, but the trail never felt crowded.

There were always enough people around to make us feel comfortable, especially on the more remote sections, but we still enjoyed long stretches of peace and quiet.

The mountain refuges were often full, so we’d regularly see familiar faces in the mornings and evenings or pass each other on the trail. It created a friendly atmosphere without ever feeling busy.

SOCIABLE HIKE

Although the trail is fairly quiet, we really enjoyed its social side.

Most of the hikers we met were experienced long-distance walkers and, like us, slightly obsessed with hiking. Everyone was friendly, respectful and happy to swap recommendations or stories from the trail. There are always one or two exceptions, but overall it was a great crowd.

The communal dinners in the mountain refuges make it easy to get chatting if you want to. We also met a few people who were camping nearby but stopped at the refuges for food and a drink.

COAST TO COAST

There was something incredibly satisfying about walking right across the island.

Many people finish in Pollença rather than continuing the final few kilometres to Port de Pollença. We completely understand why, but reaching the coast gave us a real sense of completion. Knowing we’d walked from one side of Mallorca to the other made the finish feel even more rewarding.

A PROPER CHALLENGE

If you’re looking for a hike that feels like a real achievement, the Dry Stone Route delivers.

Even on the easier days, we felt like we’d earned our rest by the time we reached our accommodation. There were moments when we wondered whether we could keep going. The climbs on day four felt endless. But when we reached Puig Gros and sat eating our sandwiches above the clouds, it all felt worth it.

The descent into Deià was another story. As someone who isn’t particularly fond of heights, I found parts of it genuinely terrifying.

It’s a tough route from start to finish, but that’s exactly what makes it so rewarding.

You can find our daily stages itinerary for the entire route here. This includes more specific information on the route elevation.

SCENERY & VARIETY

One of the things we loved most was how different every day felt.

Some days took us through peaceful forests and ancient olive groves, where we’d slow down to admire the plant life or watch goats grazing on the hillside. Other days had us climbing high into the mountains, passing reservoirs or descending steeply into beautiful villages.

And then there were the days when all we could see was blue. Surrounded by sea and sky at every turn.

The scenery never became repetitive, which is surprisingly rare on a long-distance trail.

WELL SIGN-POSTED

The route is generally very well signposted.

Red and white GR trail markers appear regularly, alongside black, white and red signposts. We were especially grateful for the distance markers, which count down the remaining distance and estimated walking time to each refuge.

On the longer days, those signs became surprisingly motivating.

GOOD FOOD & DRINK

Aside from the meals in the mountain refuges, we ate some fantastic food along the route.

Estellencs deserves a special mention for serving what was quite possibly the biggest slice of tiramisu known to man. In Esporles we found an excellent pizza restaurant, and in Port de Pollença we celebrated finishing the hike with seafood by the harbour.

Spanish food is always a highlight, but Mallorca has its own distinct cuisine alongside plenty of international options.

One thing we particularly appreciated as hikers was that restaurants often opened earlier than we’re used to in mainland Spain. After a long day on the trail, not having to wait until 8.30pm for dinner felt like a luxury.

What we didn’t like so much

There’s very little to dislike about the Dry Stone Route. Overall, we thought it was an outstanding long-distance hike. That said, no trail is perfect, and there were a few things we found frustrating or wish we’d known before setting off.

EXPENSIVE PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION

The mountain refuges are fantastic value, but unfortunately it isn’t possible to complete the entire route using them alone. Unless you’re camping, you’ll almost certainly need to book some private accommodation.

We stayed in hotels in Sant Elm and Estellencs, paying around €150 to €200 per night. Both were lovely and included breakfast, but they were more expensive than we’d usually pay while hiking. We were also surprised to find a hostel in Esporles charging more than €35 for a bed in a shared dorm.

Overall, the refuges help keep costs down, so the average price across the trip isn’t unreasonable. But if you’re travelling on a tight budget, it’s worth knowing that the first few stages can be the most expensive.

LACK OF SPONTANEITY

This isn’t the sort of trail where you can make it up as you go along.

If you want to stay in the mountain refuges, you’ll need to book well in advance. Reservations open four months ahead and the most popular dates can disappear quickly. Private accommodation offers a little more flexibility, but we still found ourselves planning and booking everything before leaving home.

This wasn’t a major drawback for us, but it did mean committing to daily stages long before we started walking.

If you’re someone who prefers deciding each day’s distance on the fly, you may find the logistics a little restrictive. Those camping nearby have a bit more flexibility, although it’s worth noting that wild camping isn’t officially permitted on the route.

LIMITED AMENITIES

The Dry Stone Route spends much of its time in the Tramuntana mountains, so it’s no surprise that some stages feel very remote.

On certain days you’ll pass through villages with cafés, bakeries and small shops, making it easy to stop for coffee or lunch. On others, there are no facilities at all, so you’ll need to carry everything you need for the day.

Thankfully, the mountain refuges make this much easier by offering breakfast and packed lunches. They won’t win any culinary awards, but they certainly saved us from going hungry.

The lack of amenities never felt like a major problem, but it does reward a little forward planning.

STEEP & HIGH SECTIONS

We loved the physical challenge of the route, but there were a few sections that caught us off guard.

Some of the climbs are steeper than we’d expected, with short scrambling sections and the occasional chain to help you through. I was suddenly very glad I’d spent time strength training before the trip.

If you’re uncomfortable with steep descents or exposed mountain paths, this might not be the trail for you. Personally, it was about as challenging as I’d want a hike to be. It never felt overly technical, but it definitely required determination and a head for heights in places.

WEATHER EXPOSURE

There are several sections of the Dry Stone Route where you’re completely exposed to the elements.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather and enjoyed warm, dry conditions throughout. But it quickly became obvious that these mountains would feel very different in heavy rain or strong winds. On some of the higher ridges, we’d have thought twice about continuing if the forecast had been poor.

Heat is another factor to consider. On the walk into Tossals Verds, I came uncomfortably close to heat exhaustion after eight or nine hours on the trail.

Checking the forecast each morning on this route is essential.

THE LAST DAY

The final day is probably the weakest part of the whole route.

Officially, the trail finishes in Port de Pollença on the coast. We chose to walk all the way there because we wanted the satisfaction of completing the full coast-to-coast route. Many walkers, however, finish in Pollença, around 7km earlier.

After walking the route ourselves, it’s easy to see why. The final stretch follows a fairly uninspiring road into town and feels like an anti-climax after everything that’s come before.

If we were doing the route again, I think we’d still finish at the coast. We’d probably just combine days eight and nine into one longer day instead. Pulling our hiking gear back on for one final 7km road walk felt a little underwhelming after such an incredible week in the mountains.

The Dry Stone Route: Our Review

So, after all that, what’s our verdict on The Dry Stone Route?

TRAIL MARKINGS + NAVIGATION: 8/10 – trail markings on the route were pretty good. We had to check a few times, but didn’t get lost during the route.

DIFFICULTY: 9/10 – the route is tough. Hilly. Rugged terrain. And exposed sections.

ACCOMMODATION + AMENITIES: 7/10 – the mountain refuges are excellent, but private accommodation is expensive. Booking ahead is required.

VARIETY + LANDSCAPE: 10/10 – the route has insane variety – each day was so different. We loved the combo of beach and mountains.

PLEASURE + LEISURE: 9/10 – for a trail that often feels really remote, there are still many wonderful towns and villages on route. Plus, a few chances to visit the beach.

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Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

British travel writer and long-distance hiker, native to Kent. Emma has walked the Camino de Santiago more than ten times, completed trails across Europe from the Corfu Trail to the Fisherman’s Trail, and covered thousands of kilometres on foot. She always writes from first-hand experience. Her goal? Inspire just one person to go on their first long-distance hike.

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